{"id":101324,"date":"2024-02-29T19:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-02-29T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=101324"},"modified":"2024-11-25T22:07:08","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T13:07:08","slug":"journey-through-setouchi-sightseeing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/journey-through-setouchi-sightseeing\/","title":{"rendered":"Journey Through Time and Legends in 4 Setouchi Cities"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
At the heart of the Setouchi region, the four cardinal cities of Okayama, Hiroshima, Matsuyama and Takamatsu frame the Seto Inland Sea with a rich blend of history and modernity. Our journey unfolds across landscapes steeped in legend, through streets echoing with the resilience of the past, and into the warm embrace of cultural and culinary delights. As we cycle across the legendary plains of Okayama, reflect on the poignant shadows of Hiroshima, and wander the serene gardens of Matsuyama and Takamatsu, each step takes us deeper into the unique characteristics of each major port city.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
From Okayama, we follow the Kibiji cycling route through verdant rural landscapes leading to the revered Kibitsujinja Shrine (\u5409\u5099\u6d25\u795e\u793e)<\/strong>. The air is thick with the folklore of Prince Kibitsuhiko<\/a>, the brave and skilled archer destined to vanquish Ura. Ura was finally defeated by Prince Kibitsuhiko after a violent series of shape-shifting pursuits across the Kibi plain<\/a>, where his decapitated head continues to haunt the sacred cauldron of Okamaden at Kibitsu Shrine to this day. At the entrance of the shrine, the imposing presence of Yaokiiwa, the legendary rock where Kibitsuhiko laid his arrows, whisks us back in time to the scene of the local legend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Inside Okamaden Hall, the solemn Narukama ritual <\/a>(\u9cf4\u91dc\u795e\u4e8b)<\/strong> is meant to appease the anger of Ura\u2019s howling spirit, recalling Ura\u2019s promise to tell people\u2019s fortunes or misfortunes. The crackling fire beneath the cauldron, accented by natural light filtering through the square room\u2019s black wooden walls, creates an otherworldly ambiance. The Shinto priest, clad in a bright green robe, channels an invisible energy into his chants, while the azome<\/em>, representing Ura\u2019s wife Azohime and dressed in pure white, tends to the burning cauldron. At the climax of the ritual, the iron pot releases a low, steady rumble that resonates within the intimate wooden chamber\u2014inviting us to reach our own personal interpretation of its legendary roar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For lunch, local traditional cuisine is served. Demi katsudon is a highly guarded local culinary tradition, and it is fried pork cutlet with demi-glace sauce. It\u2019s a popular local dish in Okayama, with each establishment serving up unique flavors. The original owner of the restaurant first learned how to make demi-glace while working at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo, but as the recipe was intended for Western cuisine, he tailored the flavor and texture for a more Japanese palette, better paired with white rice. Katsudon Nomura\u2019s original house sauce is indeed reminiscent of Western-style barbecue sauce, but its sweeter taste enhances the pork flavor and blends perfectly with the tenderness of the katsudon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just across the Asahi river from Okayama\u2019s bustling city center, Okayama<\/strong> Korakuen Garden<\/strong><\/a> (\u5ca1\u5c71\u5f8c\u697d\u5712)<\/strong> preserves the serene atmosphere of Lord Ikeda Tsunamasa\u2019s Edo-period leisure grounds. The garden is full of varying landscapes, including vast ponds populated by colorful koi, strategically placed rest houses, tea fields, bamboo groves, stepping stones and wooden bridges, even a small waterfall. Okayama\u2019s Ujo Castle can be seen, poetically framed by pine trees on the northern end of the garden. Yuishinzan Hill provides a panoramic viewpoint of the premises, but it\u2019s always a pleasure to greet the live carp gathered by the stone steps of Sawa-no-ike, or to visit the endangered red-crowned cranes inside their dedicated aviary, still kept at Okayama Korakuen as Japanese symbols of luck and longevity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A shaded path full of birdsong outside Korakuen\u2019s South Gate leads across Tsukimi Bridge to Okayama Castle<\/a> (\u5ca1\u5c71\u57ce)<\/strong>, where the gradual approach is all the more dramatic after seeing the castle from the garden. Most striking are the black weatherboards of \u201cBlack Crow\u201d Ujo\u2019s main tower. Like Oda Nobunaga\u2019s Azuchi Castle and Toyotomi Hideyoshi\u2019s Osaka Castle, its fa\u00e7ade is descended from the lineage of castles by the great masters. The unusual pentagonal base of the castle keep, supported by high stone walls, is best viewed from the riverside path. While the historic tenshu<\/em>, built around 1597, is reconstructed, Okayama Castle\u2019s original Moon-viewing Turret (Tsukimi Yagura)<\/em> watchtower remains intact and in place on the current grounds.The main tower\u2019s 5th and 6th floors offer splendid views all around, from pedal boats on the river moat to Korakuen\u2019s tea fields to the surrounding cityscape and extended mountain range, accented by bright gold shachihoko<\/em> on black-tiled rooftips.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hamoji<\/strong> (\u516b\u6587\u5b57) , who kindly cooperated with our coverage, is a specialty restaurant in Okayama known for its Seto Inland Sea seafood and sushi-centric Okayama cuisine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Perhaps the most notable menu item is barazushi<\/em>, a local dish beloved for its beautiful arrangement of seafood and seasonal vegetables. Barazushi in Okayama is a gorgeous dish consisting of a rich assortment of ingredients that are individually cooked and seasoned. Barazushi is traditionally enjoyed on special occasions such as festivals and celebrations. We also couldn\u2019t resist the sweetly vinegared mamakari<\/em> (Japanese sardinella, also known as sappa), another typical Okayama dish that is traditionally served on special occasions \u2013 decapitated, scaled and gutted, with shimmering golden tails. The amusing name mamakari is a wink at how irresistibly tasty the sushi is, so much so that more rice (mama) must be borrowed (kari) to keep up with the fish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The city of Hiroshima is exceptional in its ability to come to terms with its traumatic past, while finding new and creative ways to engage with a brighter future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Each visit to the skeletal ruins of Hiroshima\u2019s Atomic Bomb Dome<\/a> (\u539f\u7206\u30c9\u30fc\u30e0)<\/strong> is a sobering reminder of the unspeakable horrors of August 6, 1945. As we approach from behind, the stone monument to the spirits who perished in the nuclear blast sets a solemn tone. Circling around it toward the river, we hear an elderly volunteer recounting bits of history to the crowd gathered around him. Looking up at the Dome from the ground, we can see the detailed impact of the atomic explosion on the building\u2019s broken granite, shattered brick walls and distorted iron rods. We pause on the riverbank near the top of the steps, where dead bodies once washed ashore, to examine an odd-shaped block of granite disguised as a bench: the only part of the Atomic Bomb Dome ruins that we are allowed to touch, according to the guide. No doubt the best views of the Dome are from just across the river, where the ruins are put into the larger perspective of the city that has since redeveloped around it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n From within the Peace Memorial Park<\/a> (\u5e73\u548c\u8a18\u5ff5\u516c\u5712)<\/strong>, we embrace the vastness that commemorates the victims of the bomb. The Bell of Peace gongs our good wishes, as we honor the Memorial Mound, marking unclaimed cremated remains, and the turtle back memorial to Korean victims. Schoolchildren diligently take notes, suggesting the promise of remembrance across generations. High school students conduct a commemorative ceremony by the Children\u2019s Peace Monument, surrounded by countless donated orizuru<\/em> chains of folded paper cranes. Just across the walkway, the former Fuel Hall basement preserves the chamber where Eizo Nomura, a lone staff member retrieving archives at the time of the blast, survived underground. As we walk through the park grounds, the geographical scale of the devastation looms heavily in my heart, yet the park itself remains a testament to Hiroshima\u2019s unwavering message of peace and resilience. <\/p>\n\n\n\n HIROSHIMA ORIZURU TOWER<\/strong><\/a> (\u304a\u308a\u3065\u308b\u30bf\u30ef\u30fc)<\/strong>, a modern edifice rising near the Peace Memorial Park, stands as a symbol of Hiroshima’s forward-looking spirit. Its rooftop observation deck offers a sweeping view that juxtaposes the city’s painful past with its hopeful future. Also clearly visible is the guiding line starting from the Prayer Fountain, going through the Park past the Peace Flame, the Children\u2019s Peace Monument and the Atomic Bomb Dome, to the Hiroshima Green Arena, widening to include the brand-new Edion Peace Wing Stadium on the left, and the ancient Hiroshima Castle on the right. The tower\u2019s moving “ORIZURU WALL” invites visitors to contribute to a growing cascade of paper cranes, each one a wish for peace, where I fold and drop my own crane into this collective prayer. On the building\u2019s southeast corner, the refreshing <\/strong>WALL ART PROJECT “2045 NINE HOPES” <\/strong>showcases 9 floors of bold and colorful murals by Hiroshima-related artists ranging in age from twenties to nineties. The theme is Hiroshima 2045, one hundred years after the atomic bombing, as we imagine brighter views of our not-so-distant future.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Established more than 400 years ago at the end of the Warring States period, the reconstructed, symmetrical, wood-paneled Hiroshima Castle<\/a> (\u5e83\u5cf6\u57ce)<\/strong> is still an elegant sight. Although today the relatively subdued tenshu<\/em> is somewhat dwarfed by its shiny new neighboring structures, the wide moat and thick stone walls insulating the castle grounds from surrounding urban development effectively preserve its iconic status. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The castle-museum exhibits intriguingly recreated chamber interiors, as well as an impressive collection of finely crafted artisanal swords. After contemplating the modern cityscape from future-forward Orizuru Tower\u2019s rooftop observatory, the views from the top of Hiroshima Castle seem to zoom in on the scene from a more intimate distance just across the reflective moat water, as if seeing the present from the past. Go at dusk on a clear day to catch the sunset, then turn around as you leave to admire the castle gracefully lit up at night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you\u2019ve ever marveled at the mouth-watering efficiency of chefs who can whip, toss, and grill an entire Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki from scratch in mere minutes, OKOSTA okonomiyaki experience studio<\/a> (\u304a\u597d\u307f\u713c\u304d\u4f53\u9a13\u30b9\u30bf\u30b8\u30aa) <\/strong>shows you exactly how it\u2019s done, so that even the uninitiated can do-it-yourself in less than half an hour. <\/p>\n\n\n\n A skilled chef guides us through each step of the Hiroshima-style layering process, from batter to bacon to soba to egg and everything in between, all stacked to sumptuous perfection and topped with the sauce of our choice. Timing the grilling just right may be the biggest challenge, as taste and texture distinguish amateur from master\u2014the professionally crafted okonomiyaki, using the exact same ingredients, is notably firmer and crispier where it counts. Still, nothing beats the joy of eating your own creation!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The evening Hiroshima Kagura<\/a> (\u3072\u308d\u3057\u307e\u795e\u697d)<\/strong> performance almost splashes off the stage with its vibrant energy and color, from the Shinto quartet of taiko drums and flute to the extravagant costumes and swirling dances. Tonight is the \u201cTsuchigumo\u201d drama about the politically oppressed \u201cearth spider\u201d demons of the shogunate era, who rose above land to attack the shogun and reclaim power\u2026 only to be defeated by the magnificent white-haired shogun, his faithful retainers, and his heirloom sword. The show is full of sword fighting and displays of power and vengeance, while the vivid pace keeps the dramatic tale of folklore heroes and mythical creatures moving along with spectacular choreography and live music. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The performers’ dedication to their art is clearly on display, and posing with their elaborate costumes after the show adds a personal touch to this lively encounter with one of Hiroshima’s cherished cultural expressions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The day concludes as we check-in at Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima<\/a> (\u30b0\u30e9\u30f3\u30c9\u30d7\u30ea\u30f3\u30b9\u30db\u30c6\u30eb\u5e83\u5cf6)<\/strong>, a self-contained resort on Ujina Island. Renowned for hosting the G7 Summit in May 2023, the hotel proudly displays memorabilia from this significant diplomatic event around the lobby. While all the rooms provide unobstructed sea views, the Top of Hiroshima lounge on the 23rd floor offers panoramic vistas alongside gourmet offerings, from the buffet breakfast to the evening bar. The soothing common baths overlook the sea from dawn to dusk, so it\u2019s best to go in the morning to watch the sunrise. <\/p>\n\n\n\n On the ground floor, almost at sea level, an inviting, perfectly round, shallow outdoor swimming pool reflects the sky and offers another quiet space to feel at one with the seascape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fresh off the SuperJet ferry from Hiroshima port, our visit to Matsuyama begins with a delightful lunch at KADOYA<\/a> (\u304b\u3069\u3084)<\/strong>, located at the bustling intersection near Okaido Shopping Arcade. The warm and minimalist decor of the underground dining space sets the stage for elegant cuisine. The restaurant\u2019s signature Uwajima tai meshi <\/em>is a flavorful ensemble centered around plump strips of sea bream sashimi piled onto a shiso leaf, resting on a clamshell inside a sea bream-shaped dish. Mix the raw egg with the dashi sauce, dip your sashimi and shiso into the sauce, down it with white rice. While the tai<\/em> sashimi is already fresh and tasty, dipping it in the egg and sauce gives it a more delicate taste and texture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After lunch, we meander along the clean Matsuyama Ropeway Shopping Street<\/a> (\u677e\u5c71\u30ed\u30fc\u30d7\u30a6\u30a7\u30fc\u5546\u5e97\u8857)<\/strong>, from Kadoya to the ropeway stop for Matsuyama Castle. The street is a single wide road under the open sky with no visible power lines and a view of the mountains on the horizon. The path is lined with shops selling traditional handicrafts, fun foodie shops offering local treats such as jakoten<\/em> deep-fried fish cakes, and many fine restaurants specialized in Ehime\u2019s famous tai meshi (sea bream rice). About halfway up the street is Smiley Ehime Official Souvenir Shop, which offers tourism information and a selection of Ehime goods. You can even pour yourself a cup of tangy mandarin orange juice from a faucet! It\u2019s a great place to refresh with delicious orange juice while sightseeing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Matsuyama Castle<\/a><\/strong> (\u677e\u5c71\u57ce)<\/strong> has one of only 12 existing castle towers in Japan built before the Edo period. What catches the eye even from a distance is its distinctive architectural style, characterized by a towering Tenshu (Main tower) surrounded by Ko-tenshu (Small tower) and turrets, known as “Renritsushiki.” Perched at an elevation of 132 meters, this commanding structure stands out prominently. Once you approach the castle, it becomes evident that this beautiful structure atop the hill is a formidable fortress designed to thwart enemy attacks. The enemies may mistakenly believe they have reached the vulnerable entrances of the castle, such as the gate without doors (Tonashi-mon Gate) or gates utilizing tricks based on the angles of the stone walls (such as Tsutsui-mon Gate and Kakure-mon Gate). Inside the meticulously restored main keep, polished wooden stairs connect multiple levels beneath lofty ceilings. As one navigates through maze-like corridors, they encounter a plethora of notable artifacts, including armor and weapons from the Edo period, writings on scrolls, graffiti on plaques, and other remarkable collections. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The ultimate reward awaits at the summit: the panoramic view of the fortress from above. Surrounded by dense forests on a hilltop, one can oversee the entire castle grounds, with the sea stretching out to the west.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Visiting Ishiteji (\u77f3\u624b\u5bfa)<\/strong>, the revered 51st temple on Shikoku\u2019s 88-temple pilgrimage route<\/a>, is an immersive experience of its spiritual rituals. Donning the traditional sugegasa<\/em> hat, light purple sash, white vest, and carrying the symbolic Kongo-zue (a wooden staff), I embark on a meditative journey through the temple grounds. Ritual cleansing before walking through the national treasure of Niomon, fingering the woven straw \u201chealing\u201d gate adorned with coins, and the gentle gong of the giant bell enrich the sensory experiences of reciting sutras at designated spots, caressing a stone egg to clear mental troubles, smelling the burning incense and feeling the gravel underfoot. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Before leaving Ishiteji, I touch each bag of transplanted sacred sand, in an 88-temple shortcut that begins and ends at Koyasan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Matsuyama\u2019s historical Dogo Onsen district is a destination in itself. The hot spring town\u2019s famous symbol, Dogo Onsen Honkan<\/a><\/strong> (\u9053\u5f8c\u6e29\u6cc9\u672c\u9928)<\/strong>, is believed to be Japan\u2019s oldest public bathhouse\u2014mentioned in ancient Japanese texts, immortalized in Natsume Soseki\u2019s 1906 novel Botchan<\/em>, beloved in Hayao Miyazaki\u2019s 2001 animated film Spirited Away<\/em>. Amidst ongoing restorations, the active bathhouse is just as mystical and historically significant\u2014most notably three times a day at 6am, midday, and 6pm, when each strike of the Tokidaiko(time drum) resonates with centuries of tradition and creates a unique bathhouse atmosphere. The sound of this Tokidaiko(time drum) was selected as one of the \u201c100 Japanese Soundscapes to Preserve\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Botchan Karakuri Clock<\/a> (\u574a\u3063\u3061\u3083\u3093\u30ab\u30e9\u30af\u30ea\u6642\u8a08)<\/strong> is no doubt one of the most endearing and crowd-pleasing manifestation of Dogo Onsen\u2019s popularity, reuniting several disparate elements into an enchanting performance. The clock is modeled after the Shinrokaku<\/em> of Dogo Onsen Honkan, and at a predetermined time, the clock tower rises to the sounds of a lovely melody, revealing the characters from the novel Botchan<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Day 2: Echoes of the Past while Embracing the Future in Hiroshima<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Reflecting on War around the Peace Memorial Park<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Reframing the views of Hiroshima\u2019s past, present, and future<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Making Hiroshima-Style Okonomiyaki at OKOSTA<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Encountering the Cultural Spectacle of Hiroshima Kagura<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Retreating to the Seaside Tranquility of Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Day 3: Blending Tradition and Modernity in Matsuyama<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Praying as a Pilgrim at Ishiteji Temple<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Engaging with the Timeless Continuity of Dogo Onsen<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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