<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nA few steps away in this extraordinary natural setting, a large wooden stage, bathed in soft sunlight, is set to host a performance featuring two kinds of traditional Japanese theater: noh and kyogen<\/strong>. Noh is a dramatic form of theater linked to religious tradition, that explores serious and spiritual subjects with characters such as gods, ghosts and warriors. As for kyogen, I\u2019m pleasantly surprised to discover a comedic style of theater depicting amusing everyday situations.<\/p>\n\n\n\nMeguro-san explains the plot of both plays to us beforehand, so it’s easy to follow the story through the actors’ performances. But an even more memorable experience is going backstage after the show, where the props and sumptuous costumes are generously introduced to us. We even go out on stage to learn the delicate technique of basic noh movement: suriashi<\/em>, or walking without moving the upper body or lifting the feet completely off the ground<\/strong>. Try it while wearing a noh mask that limits your view to two tiny eyeholes, and you will gain an immediate appreciation of this deceptively simple technique! One of the actors, who is only 6 years old, tells us that his father, uncle and even his 4-year-old brother are also noh actors!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nAs a graceful conclusion to our evening, we walk along one of the village streets that \u2013 just for us \u2013 revives the nightlife of the Edo period<\/strong>: sake-tasting, a performance by three charming geishas, and traditional Japanese games, including a demonstration of skill with various Oyama koma spinning tops (which I fail miserably at). Fortunately, I make up for it at Ch\u014d-han, a game of chance where you roll two dice and bet on their sum<\/strong>: ch\u014d for even; han for odd. Beginner’s luck was a big help, no doubt!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nIn any case, this evening filled with warm encounters, artistic demonstrations, and traditional games is a wonderful and charming immersion in Japanese history and the culture of the Edo period<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nContinuing the Mount Oyama experience<\/h2>\n\n\n\n A pilgrimage to Japan would not be complete without at least one night’s stay in a shukubo<\/em>, or traditional temple accommodations<\/strong>. Many of these small inns, which historically hosted pilgrims on their way to Mount Oyama, are still in business and now welcome tourists as well. Tsutao, the one I stayed at, was fairly simple, but my hostess served me a very generous breakfast, and even showed me how make tofu from soy milk at home (hint: add a few centiliters of bittern).<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nFinally, if you want to thoroughly enjoy the panoramic view from Oyama Afuri Shrine, I highly recommend visiting Saryo Sekison<\/strong> (\u8336\u5bee \u77f3\u5c0a) teahouse and its \u201csky terrace\u201d<\/strong>. Although the restaurant was open in the evening that day for our special dinner, the place is very pleasant and the view is just as breathtaking by day as it is by night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nLast but not least, don’t miss Oyama-dera Temple, accessible from the middle station of the cable car, or by foot. It’s famous for spectacular autumn leaves, which are illuminated at night from mid- to late-November. Early in the morning, I attended a gomadaki<\/em> ceremony: a fire ritual in which prayers are offered to the flames<\/strong>, to the rhythm of drums and sutras recited by monks. But this temple has much more to offer, including rare works of art (statues and engravings), a stupa that you can walk around three times for good luck, and the amusing custom of kawarake-nage<\/em>. This involves tossing a small clay plate, aiming to shoot it through the center of the \u201ccircle of luck\u201d below. Why not try it for a little extra boost of fate?<\/p>\n\n\n\nHow to get to Mount Oyama<\/h2>\n\n\n\n From Tokyo, take the<\/strong> Odakyu Line express train from Shinjuku Station (\u65b0\u5bbf\u99c5) to Isehara<\/strong> Station (\u4f0a\u52e2\u539f\u99c5, 1 hour)<\/strong>. The cable car only serves 3 stations: Oyama-Cable \u2192 Oyama-dera (for the temple) \u2192 Afuri-Jinja (for the lower part of the shrine). It runs from 9am to 4:30pm on weekdays and until 5pm on weekends and public holidays, with a departure every 20 minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFor more information, visit the Isehara Tourist Association website<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n