{"id":101748,"date":"2024-03-27T20:00:00","date_gmt":"2024-03-27T11:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=101748"},"modified":"2024-05-13T08:08:59","modified_gmt":"2024-05-12T23:08:59","slug":"discover-akita-fermented-foods-samurai-manors","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/discover-akita-fermented-foods-samurai-manors\/","title":{"rendered":"Discover Akita in 6 Gourmet Cities and a Smiling Train Ride"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Venture into the dense forest mountains of<\/strong> Akita<\/strong> (\u79cb\u7530) prefecture in northeast Japan<\/strong>, and peek under the surface of its famous winter snowscapes<\/a>, behind the scenes of its fermented gastronomy. On the way, look out for monstrous deities on the Oga Peninsula, taste the alchemy of a miso brewery in Yuzawa, explore the Edo-period samurai residences of Kakunodate, and knock yourself out at Japan\u2019s largest archive of original manga drawings in Yokote.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The capital city of Akita prefecture is its window to the world, collecting influences from abroad and concentrating cultural traditions. With both an airport and a shinkansen<\/em> train station<\/a>, it\u2019s an ideal place to start exploring the region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the center of downtown Akita, the Akita Museum of Art<\/strong><\/a> (\u79cb\u7530\u770c\u7acb\u7f8e\u8853\u9928) is housed in an imposing concrete structure dedicated to contemporary art designed by the architect Tadao Ando<\/strong> (\u5b89\u85e4\u5fe0\u96c4). As soon as you enter the atrium, look up \u2013 the ceiling\u2019s iconic triangular panels illuminate a dramatic spiral staircase over a granite floor. Relaying the torch from the former prefectural art museum since 2013, the new Akita Museum of Art remains faithful to its core mission of preserving the personal collection of Masakichi Hirano<\/strong> (\u5e73\u91ce\u653f\u5409), an art collector from a wealthy merchant family in Akita city.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the heart of his collection are the artworks of Tsuguharu (L\u00e9onard) Foujita<\/strong> (\u85e4\u7530\u55e3\u6cbb), a Japanese artist who studied Western painting in Tokyo before establishing his reputation in Paris in the late 1910s. The highlight of his permanent gallery is the huge mural painting \u201cAkita Events\u201d<\/strong> (\u79cb\u7530\u306e\u884c\u4e8b), specially commissioned by Hirano, which Foujita created in a rice barn in 1937. It\u2019s a passionate tribute to the region, depicting its three great seasonal festivals and the daily lives of Akita residents in winter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Among these great festivals, the most famous, and no doubt the most spectacular, is the <\/a>Kanto festival<\/a> that takes place every summer on August 3-6<\/strong>. It\u2019s one of the communal events held to chase away the sleepiness of summer, dating back to the Edo period, when farmers brandished bright lanterns to welcome the spirits and pray for a good rice harvest. During four days and four nights, young men march across downtown Akita balancing magnificent masts of paper lanterns called kanto<\/em><\/strong> (\u7aff\u71c8) on their palm, forehead, shoulder or hip \u2013 joyous illuminations that augur prosperous times ahead.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Akita Folk Performing Arts <\/strong><\/a>Museum<\/a><\/strong> (\u79cb\u7530\u5e02\u6c11\u4fd7\u82b8\u80fd\u4f1d\u627f\u9928) displays the different sizes of kanto, including the largest (owaka)<\/em>, which measures 12 meters high and weighs about 50 kg. There is even a space for you to try your own hand at the delicate art of balancing a kanto on your body<\/strong>, if only to better appreciate the skills of the local youths. Begin with the smallest (yowaka)<\/em>, before building your way up with your palm \u2013 and remember to move your whole body, not just your wrist, along with the kanto!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hinai-jidori<\/em><\/strong> (\u6bd4\u5185\u5730\u9d8f) is one of Japan\u2019s three premium chickens<\/strong>, raised since the Edo period in northern Akita prefecture. This luxury breed has a long neck and small crest, lives outdoors for at least 100 days, and its firm and flavorful meat resembles that of native pheasants and wild mountain pigeons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The izakaya-restaurant Sot-l\u2019y-laisse<\/strong><\/a> (\u30bd\u30ea\u30ec\u30b9), whose French name refers to the gourmet \u201coyster\u201d piece of the fowl, specializes in Hinai-jidori chicken<\/strong> prepared in a cornucopia of styles: pink and red sashimi dabbed in pink salt; tender tsukune<\/em> balls covered in sweet sauce; foamy liver on toast; bright red gizzards grilled on a skewer; or choice parts crowning a fine coil of exquisite inaniwa udon.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n On the west coast of Akita, it\u2019s easy to be blown away by the Oga (\u7537\u9e7f) peninsula\u2019s natural wild beauty. Rendez-vous at Cape Nyudozaki<\/strong><\/a> <\/strong>(\u5165\u9053\u5d0e) at dusk, where raging winds swirl up gorgeous sunsets over craggy rocks under a flaming sky. Near the historical lighthouse, you can even straddle the geographic line marking 40\u02da North, at the same latitude as the cities of New York and Madrid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Shishi Otoshi Cliffs are covered with volcanic rock that formed after an eruption some 70 million years ago. The pieces of rock that fell into the sea and were polished by the waves became the stones used for ishiyaki <\/em>cooking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ishiyaki ryori<\/em><\/strong> (\u77f3\u713c\u6599\u7406) is a traditional cooking method that dates back to a time when people fishing on wooden boats off the rocky shores of Oga cooked their lunch<\/strong> with whatever they had on board.<\/strong> They dropped the day\u2019s catch, along with seaweed, mushrooms, garlic, leeks, and others into a bucket of water, then added burning stones in order to cook all the ingredients together, mixed into a savory miso soup. Nowadays, ishiyaki cooking is more of a spectacle that delights tourists with dramatic puffs of steam, crackling sparks, and the famous volcanic rocks glowing at a temperature of 800\u02daC<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n At the Seiko Grand Hotel<\/a> (\u30bb\u30a4\u30b3\u30fc\u30b0\u30e9\u30f3\u30c9\u30db\u30c6\u30eb) in Oga, you can witness this live cooking show right in your private dining room and sample the resulting seafood: a tasty bowl of miso soup with well-cooked pieces of sea bream.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the remote foothills of Oga\u2019s dense forests, villagers long ago imagined ferocious yet benevolent deities descended from the mountains. These spirits became the folklore of Namahage<\/em>, symbolized by the iconic horned masks, often one red and one blue, seen throughout the Oga region.<\/strong> Traditionally, every year on New Year\u2019s Eve, the Namahage (in reality young men wearing scary masks and straw costumes, carrying typical accessories) come down from the mountain and emerge from the darkness. They visit village households, stomping at the door, entering and inquiring about the well-being of various family members, making sure that elderly grandparents are properly cared for and that children are studying diligently, not being lazy \u2013 an extreme and theatrical way of teaching children good morals!<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n But while the Namahage may appear frightening and demonic, they are in fact mountain deities who bring each family good health and good harvests from the fields and from the sea<\/strong>. Families welcome them as honored guests, serving them ceremonial food and sake in gratitude for their auspicious visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Near the Shinzan Shrine, where a public Namahage festival is held each winter, the Oga Shinzan Folklore Museum<\/strong><\/a> (\u7537\u9e7f\u771f\u5c71\u4f1d\u627f\u9928) provides an authentic setting for a short play inside a traditional thatched roof house<\/strong>. As the audience watches from the neighboring room, two Namahage enter the house, announced by their human sakidachi <\/em>escort, stomping and speaking loudly to scare away evil spirits. When the performance is over, pick up a piece of straw fallen from the Namahage, as it\u2019s a sacred object that can protect you from evil. If you wrap the straw around your head or hang it on the door of your house, it will help you to live a healthy life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A few steps away from the house, the Namahage Museum<\/strong><\/a> (\u306a\u307e\u306f\u3052\u9928) takes the form of a fortress built with rocks extracted from Mount Kampu. The museum exhibits more than 150 Namahage masks and costumes from about 60 communities around Oga<\/strong>, showcasing a wide range of styles and expressions of these spiritual folk characters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Akita\u2019s shottsuru<\/em><\/strong> sauce follows the culinary tradition of famous Asian fish sauces, including Vietnam\u2019s nuoc mam<\/em> or Thailand\u2019s nam pla<\/em>. But while all these umami sauces result from fermenting fish (sardine, anchovy, etc.) with salt, shottsuru\u2019s uniqueness lies in the fish used to make it: hatahata<\/em><\/strong> (Arctoscopus japonicus<\/em>) is a scaleless fish native to the Sea of Japan off the Oga Peninsula, considered to be a gift sent from heaven, as they are known to throw themselves onto the shore during violent storms with rough waves and a loud clap of thunder when winter approaches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In the south of the peninsula, near Oga train station, the restaurant attached to the giant Ogare<\/strong><\/a> souvenir shop is proud to offer its specialty of shottsuru yakisoba<\/em><\/strong> <\/em>(\u3057\u3087\u3063\u3064\u308b\u713c\u304d\u305d\u3070), served by a robot. This savory dish of stir-fried seafood noodles seasoned with local shottsuru sauce, much finer than the usual soy sauce, sets the tone for more wild and wonderful gourmet pleasures in Akita.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Perhaps you know the true story of Hachiko, the Akita dog who accompanied and awaited his master at Shibuya train station in Tokyo, every morning and every evening\u2026 even after the sudden death of the master in 1925, and until his own death ten years later. Today, the famous statue of Hachiko still sits facing Shibuya Station, indifferent to the neighborhood\u2019s relentless development over the past century. If Hachiko is no doubt the most well-known Akita Inu<\/strong> in Japan<\/a>, his breed is just as faithfully preserved in his birthplace of<\/strong> Odate<\/strong> (\u5927\u9928).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Odate also has its own Hachiko statue<\/strong>, sitting with two upright ears, facing Odate train station. Behind him, the fa\u00e7ade of the relatively new Akita Dog Visitor Center<\/a> (\u79cb\u7530\u72ac\u306e\u91cc) is modeled after the original Shibuya Station in the 1920s<\/strong>. Inside, numerous stuffed dogs and thematic exhibitions capitalize on the undeniably furry cuteness of Akita Inu. Live dogs can be observed behind glass in a separate room, but to learn more about this strong and charismatic breed, head to the dedicated Akita Inu Museum<\/strong><\/a> (\u79cb\u7530\u72ac\u4f1a\u9928).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Odate cultivates the art of magewappa<\/strong> <\/em>(\u66f2\u3052\u308f\u3063\u3071), a handicraft that consists of heating and bending natural Akita cedar wood to form small recipients<\/strong>, traditionally used to transport food such as cooked rice. During the Edo period, the Satake Nishi family who lived in Odate Castle noticed the abundance of Akita cedars on the territory and encouraged their samurai retainers to develop the existing techniques of magewappa<\/em>. They found that natural Akita cedar wood, with its rich aroma, fine grain and gentle color, luxuriously enhanced the food contained inside the handcrafted bento boxes. Furthermore, the antibacterial properties of the local wood prevent the rice from spoiling, thanks to the box\u2019s raw finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Adjacent to its wonderful boutique of collector\u2019s boxes and contemporary magewappa for sale, Shibata Yoshinobu Shoten <\/strong>(\u67f4\u7530\u6176\u4fe1\u5546\u5e97) offers an Odate magewappa workshop<\/strong><\/a> for anyone who would like to assemble their own marubentobako<\/em> (round bento box). Assembly includes \u201csewing\u201d with wild cherry bark, gluing and setting with a mallet and other dedicated tools, as well as the fine art of sanding, using various degrees of sandpaper to finish off your box with a soft caress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just around the corner, stop for lunch at the restaurant of Hanazen<\/strong><\/a> (\u82b1\u5584), the brand specialized in chicken rice bentos <\/strong>(\u9d8f\u3081\u3057<\/strong>\u99c5\u5f01, tori-meshi<\/em> ekiben<\/em>) at Odate Station since 1947<\/strong>. It\u2019s a chance to (re)discover this local comfort food reinvented as an elegant dish presented in authentic Odate magewappa bentos that have been serving customers for some 20 years. Akita cedar retains heat and absorbs extra moisture, making the steamed rice more tender. From the upstairs gallery room, you can watch factory employees filling the bentos with freshly cooked tori-meshi, and spot the giant magewappa containing steamed Akita Komachi rice.<\/p>\n\n\n\nAkita, City of Art and Culture<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Murals of Akita for all seasons<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Kanto lantern parades in luminous balance<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Hinai-jidori, one of the great Japanese fowls<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Oga, the Beautifully Wild Peninsula<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Cooking soup with volcanic rocks<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Namahage, the folklore behind the monstrous masks<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Shottsuru yakisoba, stir-fried noodles blessed with divine fish sauce<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Odate, Birthplace of the Original Akita Inu<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Magewappa, handmade boxes of bent Akita cedar<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Smile, you\u2019re traveling across Akita by rail!<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n