{"id":103398,"date":"2024-07-16T11:26:16","date_gmt":"2024-07-16T02:26:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=103398"},"modified":"2024-11-25T22:07:06","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T13:07:06","slug":"public-art-odyssey-in-tokyo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/public-art-odyssey-in-tokyo\/","title":{"rendered":"Universal Shapes: A Public Art Odyssey in Tokyo"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>The curvaceous and holey <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Henry_Moore\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\"Henry Moores (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"ek-link\">Henry Moores<\/a> that dotted the landscape of my pre-Banksy UK youth, were to me, the face (and monolithic body) of British public art. Moore\u2019s magnificent-but-ubiquitous abstractions of the female form seemed to multiply in the moonlight of the night time parks, and then with bonnie bronze babies seated on their patinaed knees, bask in the warmth of the municipal sun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Those now-fondly-remembered ladies, with-or-without babies, helped instill in me a lifelong appreciation of the usually-well-intentioned phenomenon of public art. <strong>So it is with a glad curiosity that I set out on a sunny Tokyo Saturday to see what magic the capital can offer in the form of gratis-to-gaze-upon marble, metal and bolted-together oddities.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-ht-block-toc  is-style-outline htoc htoc--position-wide toc-list-style-plain\" data-htoc-state=\"expanded\"><span class=\"htoc__title\"><span class=\"ht_toc_title\">Table of Contents<\/span><span class=\"htoc__toggle\"><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"16\" height=\"16\"><g fill=\"#444\"><path d=\"M15 7H1c-.6 0-1 .4-1 1s.4 1 1 1h14c.6 0 1-.4 1-1s-.4-1-1-1z\"><\/path><path d=\"M15 1H1c-.6 0-1 .4-1 1s.4 1 1 1h14c.6 0 1-.4 1-1s-.4-1-1-1zM15 13H1c-.6 0-1 .4-1 1s.4 1 1 1h14c.6 0 1-.4 1-1s-.4-1-1-1z\"><\/path><\/g><\/svg><\/span><\/span><div class=\"htoc__itemswrap\"><ul class=\"ht_toc_list\"><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-love\">Love by Robert Indiana<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-tokyo-brushstrokes-i-and-ii\">Tokyo Brushstrokes I and II by Roy Lichtenstein<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-the-eye-of-shinjuku\">The Eye of Shinjuku by Yoshiko Miyashita<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-maman\">Maman by Louise Bourgeois<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-ni-tele-really-big-clock\">Ni-Tele Really Big Clock by Hayao Miyazaki<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-subterranean-sanctuary\">Subterranean Sanctuary of Ginza Station<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-crystal-of-light\">Crystal of Light by Tokujin Yoshioka<\/a><\/li><li class=\"\"><a href=\"#htoc-young-clock-tower\">Young Clock Tower by Taro Okamoto<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>First stop, the high-rise hotel swank of <strong>Nishi-Shinjuku<\/strong>, where in the shadow of the i-Land Tower, work by two pop-art heavyweights has been adding some primary color cheer to the leafy-but-gray surroundings since the mid-1990s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-love\">Love by Robert Indiana<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Robert Indiana&#8217;s <em>Love<\/em> is a many-splendored ton of metal and densely pigmented gloss paint consisting of the letters L, O, V, and E stacked in a pleasingly cubic form. Working from his original 2D design (a popular Museum of Modern Art Christmas card), Indiana showed not just typographical nous, but also keen business acumen, by convincing cities around the world to fork out for his four-letter word in monumental sculptural form.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"674\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09220813\/2048px-LOVE_sculpture_in_Shinjuku._41548094124-2-2-1024x674.jpg\" alt=\"love  public art sculpture in Shinjuku, Japan\" class=\"wp-image-103415\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09220813\/2048px-LOVE_sculpture_in_Shinjuku._41548094124-2-2-1024x674.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09220813\/2048px-LOVE_sculpture_in_Shinjuku._41548094124-2-2-500x329.jpg 500w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09220813\/2048px-LOVE_sculpture_in_Shinjuku._41548094124-2-2-1536x1011.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09220813\/2048px-LOVE_sculpture_in_Shinjuku._41548094124-2-2-150x99.jpg 150w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09220813\/2048px-LOVE_sculpture_in_Shinjuku._41548094124-2-2.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>In the <a href=\"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/best-and-the-worst-of-summer-in-japan\/\" class=\"ek-link\">rising heat of this summer<\/a> morning, Tokyo\u2019s <em>Love<\/em> sits under gently swaying trees, attracting affectionate glances from locals and lending its pop-art-pizzaz to the photographs of tourists who grinningly wedge themselves between its seriffed capitals. The colors, which are still as bold as ever, are in places scuffed and scratched, complementing the work\u2019s clean lines with an agreeable sense of well-loved longevity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed aligncenter is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"Roy Lichtenstein: Tokyo Brushstrokes - Trailer\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/DpThdz1rcFY?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-tokyo-brushstrokes-i-and-ii\">Tokyo Brushstrokes I and II by Roy Lichtenstein<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Just around the corner are Roy Lichtenstein\u2019s <em>Tokyo Brushstrokes I and II<\/em>. Here, the artist\u2019s use and reuse of comic book imagery reaches new heights, as intertwining depictions of fat glistening paint-smears are first given his familiar flattened halftone treatment, then brought to massive, industrially-fabricated, life. With a relatively easy-to-fix irony, the once eye-popping colors of both sculptures are currently quite faded. Still, they don\u2019t fail to impress, reaching up in a twisting-turning confusion of undulating splatter and towering over the passing cars and pedestrians.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-the-eye-of-shinjuku\">The Eye of Shinjuku by Yoshiko Miyashita<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Onwards to the rinky-dink Showa-era charms of <strong>Shinjuku Station\u2019s west gate underpass<\/strong>, where Yoshiko Miyashita\u2019s <em><a aria-label=\"The Eye of Shinjuku  (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/www.artatsite.com\/Tokyo\/details\/Miyashita-Yoshiko-The-Eye-Shinjuku-Station-statue-sculpture-Tokyo-Japan-Art-at-Site.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"ek-link\">The Eye of Shinjuku<\/a> <\/em>has gazed out at over half a century of commuter mayhem, stress, joy, and debauchery, unblinking since its installation in the heady days of 1969. Miyashita\u2019s silent psychedelic witness to the fortunes of the millions who pass daily through the world&#8217;s busiest railway station is formed from satisfyingly thick and rippled clear acrylic and fitted with a spinning pupil and lights that cut through the gloom of its surroundings. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Unfortunately, on this particular afternoon, these automated features are not in evidence, perhaps as a result of nearby construction. I have an inkling that the work\u2019s ongoing existence may soon be threatened by the already-underway redevelopment of this area. But for the time being, at least, the eye makes its haunting and history-filled presence known.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-maman\">Maman by Louise Bourgeois<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Emerging, after a short stint on the Oedo Line, from the bowels of the earth (which are listed on maps as Roppongi station), the pilgrimage <strong>leads next to Roppongi Hills<\/strong> and a visit to <em>Maman<\/em>, Louise Bourgeois\u2019 spectacular nine-meter arachnid. The sculpture, which is also replicated in cities around the world, was intended as a tribute to Bourgeois\u2019 mother, who worked as a weaver. Knowledge of the artist\u2019s touching intentions does cast the otherwise potentially unsettling bronze behemoth in a friendlier light, and she certainly holds no fear for the happy children who, on this now-sweltering Roppongi afternoon, run between and twirl around the spindly-but-strong legs of Bourgeois\u2019 <em>Maman<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09154409\/2048px-Spider_statue_%40_Roppongi_Hills_11421178053-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Maman, Louise Bourgeois\u2019 Public art sculpture in Shinjuku, Japan, of a giant spider\" class=\"wp-image-103408\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The spectacular nine-meter, bronze-cast arachnid sculpture Maman by Louise Bourgeois was intended as a tribute to the artist\u2019s mother. Photo: Guilhem Vellut<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-ni-tele-really-big-clock\">Ni-Tele Really Big Clock by Hayao Miyazaki<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Next, to<strong> Shiodome<\/strong>, where fans of <a href=\"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/ghibli-theme-park-japan-informations\/\" class=\"ek-link\">Studio Ghibli<\/a> (and\/or oversized timepieces) will be delighted by the <em>Ni-Tele Really Big Clock<\/em>, designed in intricate detail by pure-hearted animation genius <strong>Hayao Miyazaki<\/strong> and built by Studio Ghibli collaborator Kunio Shachimaru. Located on the side of Nippon Television\u2019s headquarters, <strong>Miyazaki\u2019s clock is a colossal 18-meter steampunk fantasy in copper and steel that shares a similar aesthetic to his 2004 movie <em>Howl\u2019s Moving Castle<\/em>.<\/strong> <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At selected times throughout the day, the charming lantern-headed figures that inhabit the clock are animated in a bells-and-whistles striking of the hour. Having arrived early for a bout of this mechanized whimsy, I am dismayed to find that the day\u2019s ever-rising humidity has given way to the first of many ball-bearing sized raindrops, making a 20-minute wait for the show sans umbrella a less attractive proposition than it would otherwise have been. With apologies to Miyazaki-san, I make my way to my next appointment, which is waiting for me underground.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-subterranean-sanctuary\">Subterranean Sanctuary of Ginza Station<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Taking shelter in the tunnels of <strong>Ginza Station<\/strong>, I find something of a public art treasure trove. <span style=\"margin: 0px;padding: 0px\">In addition to the booth-like Metro Ginza Gallery, which shows work by a regularly changing roster of contemporary artists, there is the Elysian stained glass beauty of Ikuo Hirayama\u2019s <em>Rakuen<\/em><\/span> and the venerably handsome sculpture <em>Mercury<\/em> by Kasaoki Takao.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" src=\"https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"booth-like Metro Ginza Gallery stained glass window\" class=\"wp-image-103411\" srcset=\"https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-500x333.jpg 500w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-900x600.jpg 900w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/s3.voyapon.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/07\/09155621\/2048px-150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs-2.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Ikuo Hirayama&#8217;s Rakuen. Photo: <a aria-label=\"663highland (opens in a new tab)\" href=\"https:\/\/ja.m.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/%E3%83%95%E3%82%A1%E3%82%A4%E3%83%AB:150913_Ginza_Station_Tokyo_Japan01bs.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener nofollow\" class=\"ek-link\">663highland<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-crystal-of-light\">Crystal of Light by Tokujin Yoshioka<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>There is one work, however, that seems irresistible to the eyes of the sheltering throng.<em> Crystal of Light <\/em>by Tokujin Yoshioka is a <strong>dazzling arrangement of 636 crystal glasses<\/strong>, specially cut to send light dancing in every direction. The work\u2019s twinkling charms draw streams of passersby, and every few seconds, another smiling selfie is taken against the glamorous backdrop. Children press their faces close to the crystals, hypnotized by the reflected rays that dart from each angled facet, unwilling to leave in a hurry. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed aligncenter is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"\u5409\u5ca1\u5fb3\u4ec1\u300e\u5149\u306e\u5f6b\u523b Crystal of Light\u300f\u30a4\u30e1\u30fc\u30b8\u30e0\u30fc\u30d3\u30fc\" width=\"1080\" height=\"608\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/-F_zFHj54XA?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>With the last of Yoshioka\u2019s glitter in the corner of my eyes, I treat myself to a <em>konbini<\/em> umbrella and head up to the surface to check on the weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"htoc-young-clock-tower\">Young Clock Tower by Taro Okamoto<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Armageddon awaits. The rain descends in solid sheets, and ominous rumbles are closing in. Putting my new umbrella through its paces, I make my way to a deserted<strong> Sukiyabashi Park <\/strong>where Taro Okamoto\u2019s <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.atlasobscura.com\/places\/young-clock-tower\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\"Young Clock Tower (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"ek-link\">Young Clock Tower<\/a><\/em> is just, but only just, visible through the squall. The mustachioed clock face atop <a href=\"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/7-artists-of-the-japanese-20th-century\/\" class=\"ek-link\">Okamoto<\/a>\u2019s gold and silver tentacled creation (a precursor to his immortal <em>Tower of the Sun<\/em>) is suddenly picked out by a terrifyingly close flash of lightning, and I realize that although there was more I wanted to see, my public art odyssey is over for the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<iframe src=\"https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/d\/embed?mid=1mIKUD15qiIgZCcljRGEavRizbZ1YeR8&amp;ehbc=2E312F&#038;hl=en\" width=\"850\" height=\"480\"><\/iframe>\n\n\n\n<p>Later, in a nearby izakaya, with the brutish weather locked safely outside, glasses are raised. First to the dear departed Henry Moore, and then to the easy-to-come-by culture of Japan\u2019s art-filled capital. Making peace with the rain-soaked truncation of my adventure in public art and thinking ahead to its hoped-for recommencement, an encouraging thought occurs: like the happy-snapping visitors to Indiana\u2019s<em> Love<\/em>, I have only scratched the surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Feature image: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.flickr.com\/people\/65847118@N06\" target=\"_blank\" aria-label=\"Maarten Heerlien (opens in a new tab)\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" class=\"ek-link\">Maarten Heerlien<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The curvaceous and holey Henry Moores that dotted the landscape of my pre-Banksy UK youth, were to me, the face&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":216,"featured_media":103417,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pgc_meta":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[24,26],"tags":[1309,2065],"class_list":{"0":"post-103398","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-activities","8":"category-culture","9":"tag-art","10":"tag-cultural-activities"},"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Public Art in Japan: A Walking Tour through Tokyo&#039;s Public Art<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"During a day stroll in Tokyo, we visit Tokyo&#039;s thriving and stunning public art scene including work by Japanese and global artists.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, 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