Over the past decade, veganism in Japan has seen significant growth in awareness and acceptance, although it\u2019s still far from being a mainstream lifestyle choice. Today, it\u2019s increasingly uncommon to meet someone unfamiliar with vegan food or who considers it an unusual concept. This growing familiarity has made it easier for vegans to find dining options, but discovering a traditional izakaya \u5c45\u9152\u5c4b (popular Japanese bar and restaurant) with a fully vegan menu was, until recently, almost unimaginable.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Yet, just a 6-minute stroll from Tokyo Skytree<\/a> and within easy walking distance of Asakusa Station and Senso-ji Temple, Nowhere<\/a> is exactly that<\/strong>. The food is all homemade using seasonal and locally sourced plant-based ingredients, bringing a new and delicious twist to a tempting line-up of Japanese comfort food classics. The cozy interior and ambience provides the perfect setting for vegans and non-vegans alike, to drink, eat, relax and enjoy the full izakaya experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Born in Tokyo but raised in Aomori<\/a>, Nowhere\u2019s charismatic owner Yuki Koyama spent several years in the mid 1990s studying in the UK. It was there that she met her husband and discovered vegetarianism, before eventually becoming a committed vegan<\/strong>. In 2017 she opened hallogallo, a small popular vegan bar in Nakano that hosted DJ nights and events. Things were going well until the 2020 pandemic forced it to close, but it didn\u2019t take long for Koyama to start thinking about a rebirth of sorts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
She explains, \u201cWhen the pandemic happened, wishing to avoid crowds and not wanting to visit bars or restaurants, my husband and I started to take long walks across town, often ending up in Asakusa and sitting next to the river near Azumabashi. The wide-open airy feeling of the area and its vibrancy really appealed to us. It was sitting there that the seed of an idea, something to aim towards and hope for when the situation improved, came to me.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Izakaya play an important role in the social life of Japan<\/strong>. Visitors and residents alike are drawn to the comfortable feeling of relaxing into the cheerful laid-back atmosphere of an izakaya, particularly one that acts as an extension to their home, ordering food and drink as the fancy takes them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cI have always loved that feeling, but as a vegan for well over a decade, and a vegetarian for longer than that, had, of course, found the choice of food and drinks available to me massively restricted, sometimes to almost zero, which does, of course, take quite a lot of fun out of it,\u201d says Koyama ruefully. \u201cI wondered if it wouldn\u2019t be possible to make a really authentic izakaya where vegans and non-vegans alike could enjoy that same type of convivial atmosphere, and delicious food and drink, without any restrictions whatsoever. Nowhere is my attempt to answer that question.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Upon entering Nowhere<\/a> visitors are greeted with an immediate sense of warmth and friendliness. The decor is mainly made up of things that Koyama and her husband have collected over the years from flea-markets<\/a>, recycle shops, etc.<\/strong> Rummaging through this collection for the most fittingly wa<\/em> \u548c(Japanese-style) items, they have come up with a selection that is cheerfully retro, folksy, and a little bit pop. It certainly makes for a cozy, somewhat out of the ordinary (yet familiar) atmosphere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The name of the izakaya derives from two main sources: the 1990 album Nowhere<\/em> by British shoegaze band Ride, and William Morris\u2019 1890 utopian socialist science fiction book News from Nowhere<\/em>. As a name, Koyama felt Nowhere seemed to have a connection to the sort of unhurried, cheerful hours that could be spent in an izakaya with friends or family.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
The logo, designed by her illustrator husband, is inspired by the many bridges that cross the Sumida River, especially Azumabashi. <\/strong>It is a very simplified view of a bridge, with a full moon shining above it and reflected in the river underneath. \u201cThe link to the name is an idea that a bridge, while taking a person between two places, is not exactly a place in itself, and that somewhere in the middle is often a nice point to pause and appreciate your surroundings,\u201d explains Koyama.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As a music lover, the Aomori-native has made sure that this also fits into Nowhere’s identity. Playing unobtrusively in the background is a sunshiny blend of Japanese pop music ranging from the 1950s to modern day sounds, featuring artists such as YMO, Masumi Hara, Mioko Yamaguchi, Flipper\u2019s Guitar, Cibo Matto, Oeil and Yuragi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The food and drink is a take on classic traditional izakaya menu items, the type of treats that vegans generally don\u2019t get to enjoy such as thick-cut ‘ham’ katsu<\/em>, crispy karaage<\/em> and gyoza<\/em>. <\/strong>Other highlights include an aromatic wasabi salad, original shichimi<\/em> and Sichuan pepper edamame<\/em>, seasonal pickled vegetables, furofuki daikon<\/em>, and a comforting, homely miso soup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The drinks menu is also 100% vegan <\/strong>and includes beer and wine (by the glass or bottle), plus a variety of shochu and nihonshu<\/em> (sake) \u2013 the matcha tonyu (soy milk), either with or without shochu, is a popular choice. There are also soft drinks and non-alcoholic beer for those embracing sobriety.<\/p>\n\n\n\n