{"id":3333,"date":"2016-03-14T08:00:08","date_gmt":"2016-03-13T23:00:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=3333"},"modified":"2018-06-12T21:01:42","modified_gmt":"2018-06-12T12:01:42","slug":"tomonoura-port-city","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/tomonoura-port-city\/","title":{"rendered":"Tomonoura, the Port City of Spiced Sake and Street Cats"},"content":{"rendered":"

In Hiroshima prefecture’s Fukuyama city, we boarded a bus bound for Tomo Port (\u9786\u6e2f, Tomok\u014d) at stop number five.\u00a0 The bus station, just outside JR Fukuyama station’s south exit, can be recognized as the entire center of your vision. Our bus headed west from downtown and over a wide-banked reed-ridden river. On the west side riverbank’s ridge, the road quietly watched the city of Fukuyama. \u00a0The road shifted as we made for different waters \u2013 the Hiroshima harbor town of Tomonoura.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

The Tomonoura road was in parts the brushed aside greenery of a Japanese wall scroll. Such places added a special segue to the port town. Contrasting Hiroshima, Fukuyama is a very humble little city, slipped between small mountains. \u00a0Beyond them the ridges did rend to sea, an oceanic view.<\/p>\n

The sea was a special breadth that I thought only open ocean could offer. This, however, was scenic Shikoku-sheltered Seto Inland Sea national park. \u00a0Such nostalgic Japanese magic can be glimpsed in Hayao Miyazaki\u2019s Ponyo<\/em>, a movie which takes inspiration from Tomonoura itself.<\/p>\n

\"<\/a><\/p>\n

After five or ten minutes seaside, the road took a right and our bus nestled between buildings of the Hiroshima sea village.\u00a0 The road angled here, as we reached the Tomonoura\u2019s peninsula point. To our front was a\u00a0Ponyo-proportioned harbor.<\/p>\n

\"Where<\/a><\/p>\n

Leaving the bus, we slipped into a stroll towards the cozied-up old town a far cry from downtown Hiroshima.\u00a0 This quaint area is easily spotted by Tomonoura\u2019s Joyato lighthouse. Unlike a lighthouse, it\u2019s okay to be drawn towards this beacon.\u00a0 Following the road, a quick left breaches into back streets. \u00a0Here are wooden boards built to low eaves; while slightly lumpy roads are peopled by older shopkeepers with slightly lumpy backs.\u00a0 The air is musty with wood and a sea scent.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a><\/p>\n

In this sea breeze, heady haze, I first noticed a dark cordial for sale.\u00a0 It looked thick as those deep waters shepherded by Tomonoura and out to the Seto inland sea at Hiroshima’s easternmost point. Here was an\u00a0\u00a0arcing harbor lined by a crescent road.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Quaint<\/a><\/p>\n

Tomonoura is famous for a Japanese aesthetic in its modern, retro depiction. \u00a0The Hiroshima town was the setting for a drama featuring Sakamoto Ryoma’s historical personage.\u00a0 More familiar to foreigners might be its use in the movie\u00a0Wolverine<\/em>.\u00a0 These locales were in places yet tucked away on Tomonoura’s peninsula.<\/p>\n

After snooping around like one of the neighborhood cats, we continued through the peninsula. Again, the dark cordial from earlier was advertised just inside an old-looking spot.\u00a0 This time we peeped inside to catch an excited greeting from a shopkeeper.<\/p>\n

She detailed the properties of what was indeed a Hiroshima local liquor: Homei-shu<\/em>. Handing us a pamphlet, it became clearer than a swiftly-quaffed spirit that this was a spiced concoction.\u00a0 The spiced sweet has been favored as a medicine by locals since the 1600s. It was only for our good health that we uncap and take a spoonful.<\/p>\n

The taste had an old-time confectionery bang, and I could imagine it stocked by a confectioner in his sweet-toothed celebratory stash. \u00a0The homei-shu’s ruddy muddiness could brighten cheeks like a cherub in a candy store with its taste both young and ancient. \u00a0At its cheapest in a small decanter at \u201cTomo Sake brewing,\u201d we purchased 180 ml for 500 Yen there.<\/p>\n

With cheeks red as if pricked by a pin the size of our sample, it was time to warm our bellies.\u00a0 My friend recommended a place, name unremembered, where bowls were broth-filled with a thick knot of soba (buckwheat) noodles. \u00a0Though not a Hiroshima specialty, from her account of a grand belly-filling, I naturally agreed to find this Tomonoura spot.<\/p>\n

This spot \u2013 Sandaime Sakujyu – was located where the road approaching Tomonoura swung eased into the town center. It faced the Seto sea and nearby island of Sensuijima, but in its deepest corner you\u2019d forget just where you were.<\/p>\n

Parting the noren curtain, we entered.\u00a0 The door’s rumble muted the outside world, and only a soft \u201cirashaimasse\u201d (\u201cwelcome!\u201d) accompanied by a quiet sea swell of strings settled us towards our seats.\u00a0 A lone chef stood at the counter, presiding over it with a slow rise of Western classical music behind him.<\/p>\n

We were seated Japanese style, bounded by a low wall placed around us on a knee-high platform. We ordered \u2013 I ordered a soba dish with a drowned mass of vegetable and fish tempura.\u00a0 Our food was carried quickly over as the chef prepared solo at a tremolo pace.\u00a0 The shine on the bowl\u2019s lip reflected my wide, bright smile.\u00a0 The portion was robust as a contrabass; taste sublime as the voiceless instrumentals.<\/p>\n

For an indeterminate time, we were given to Sandaime Sakujyu’s ambiance. Food and music together softened us up for a presumed amble.\u00a0 We spoke a well-deserved \u201cgochisou sama deshita\u201d (something like \u201cit was a feast\u201d) and out we went.<\/p>\n

Completing a circuit of Tomonoura, we found the back-end of a Tomonoura terminal bus. As Haruki Murakami\u2019s stories sometimes go, we were beckoned by\u00a0 a cat stretching out across the road. With a flick of its paw, we were there.<\/p>\n

\"Night<\/a><\/p>\n

A spilled yarn\u2019s crisscross of roads led us into another neighborhood.\u00a0 Climbing a slope we found a caf\u00e9 marked by a decorative cat silhouette I didn\u2019t recognize. A mewling cat friskily strutted out from by the caf\u00e9 to bound down a stone stairwell. \u00a0It framed a view of various rooftop angles, quiet as any in rural Hiroshima. \u00a0As the cat slipped away, it seemed like a prowling street cat\u2019s wonderland.<\/p>\n

\"Goofing<\/a><\/p>\n

A tower topped this hill overseeing sea. Stout \u201cEmpukuji\u201d temple possessed a view of neighboring Sensuijima island, and curious island \u201cBentenjima\u201d singly-occupied by its shrine.\u00a0 We were bare as a monk\u2019s head of cash, and couldn\u2019t pay the 200 Yen admission for one Fukuzenji Temple\u2019s wide view. We instead opted for vacant open-air space at Empukuji.<\/p>\n

Returning back and below closer to sea, we stopped at intervals as erratic as cat\u2019s moods.\u00a0 One moment one begged for a pet, the next it was ready to swipe. Tomonoura’s feline hideaways were humble, and a vaguely distinguished hut had served as Hugh Jackman\u2019s housing in the movie Wolverine<\/em>.\u00a0 The town had no shred of Wolverine\u2019s contempt as children guilelessly rounded this pedestrian Tomonoura back road.<\/p>\n

Tomonoura<\/strong><\/p>\n

Access:\u00a0Tomo Port (\u9786\u6e2f, Tomok\u014d) at Fukuyama bus station’s boarding spot 5. It takes 35 minutes and 550 yen to get to the Tomo Port bus terminus<\/p>\n

Tomo Sake brewing<\/strong><\/p>\n

Address:\u00a01013 Tomo, Tomo-machi, Fukuyama-city, Hiroshima\u00a0720-0201<\/p>\n

Hours: 10:00-17:00<\/p>\n

Pricing:\u00a0900ml\/1750 Yen; 500ml\/1150 Yen;\u00a0300ml\/850 Yen; 180ml\/500 Yen<\/p>\n

Website<\/a> (in Japanese only)<\/p>\n

Sandaime Sakujyu<\/strong><\/p>\n

Address:\u00a0Tomo Seaside Hotel 1F, 555 Tomo, Tomo-cho, Fukuyama-city, Hiroshima\u00a0720-0201<\/p>\n

Hours: 11:30 until the stock is out<\/p>\n

Pricing: Varies<\/p>\n

Website <\/a>(in Japanese only)<\/p>\n