“Torokko”<\/strong> sightseeing train is a popular destination <\/a>for adults and children alike. The trolley train is currently a sightseeing train that runs 7.1km from Takamori Station to Nakamatsu Station. The opening of all lines is scheduled for 2022.<\/p>\n\n\n\nI arrive at 10:00 am sharp, and breathe in the luscious Takamori landscape of fresh greens and misty mountains that look like they’ve been painted in with watercolors. While waiting on the platform, tour guides in full train conductor gear offered their train caps to their younger patrons, only to reveal a bald cap underneath (much to the glee of children and adults alike.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At 10:30 am, our train rolls in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure><\/li> <\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nFlanked by the sights of Mount Aso to the north, and a lovely, blue tinged mountain to the south, the scenery is a treasure trove of traditional farmhouses, <\/strong>minshukus<\/strong><\/em>, and rice fields<\/strong>. I also see the blackest, most mineral rich soil I think I’ve ever seen in my entire life. As we roll through the rich landscape, our tour guides point out places of interest. It\u2019s all in Japanese, so non-Japanese speakers can relax and take in the magnificent views, which speak for themselves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nA 5 minute stop at the end of the line at Nakamatsu station<\/strong> allows for washroom breaks and photo opportunities. Get in line for your chance to get a photo with the train conductor’s hat (and a glimpse of that funny bald cap) before heading back to Takamori station.<\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nMy next stop is a 10-minute drive to Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai<\/strong>, where a 160-year-old hospital-turned-restaurant serves a Takamori variety of Dengaku miso<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nTakamori Miso Dengaku: A Regional Specialty from Kumamoto<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Dengaku miso<\/em> (\u7530\u697d\u5473\u564c) differs from region to region, with varying ratios of miso<\/em>, sugar, mirin<\/em> and sake<\/em>. My first taste of Dengaku miso was in the Japanese Alps over 3 years ago, in a cozy, dimly-lit restaurant of exposed beams and charcoal. With vivid memories of miso-marinated mushrooms roasting over the low glow of an open flame, it represented one of those special moments where my love for Japan blossomed. As I head into my next dengaku<\/em> experience at Takamori Dengaku Hozonkai<\/strong>, my expectations are high.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen I arrive, I’m greeted by the owner, Mrs. Honda, who’s been watching for my arrival from the kitchen window. With quick introductions and a gentle smile, she shuffles me over to the open sliding doors, where I slip off my shoes and step up into the open restaurant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n <\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOn a clear day, a view of Nekodake (Cat Crouching) Mountain and Mount Aso can be seen from the restaurant. Today, the scenery looks more like vaporous, ghostly figures in the distance. I barely register the cool temperatures outside however. As I am ushered to my seat, a shovel full of smouldering charcoal is brought to my hearth. Immediately, I can feel the warmth emanate from the coals to my face, even as a cool breeze rushes over me from an open window. From the soft murmurs of customers in the background to the warm glow of embers, the restaurant has turned into a haven from the damp, grey elements outside.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nIt’s not only on cold days I would suggest a visit. Surrounded by a garden of maple trees, the scenic transformation of the landscape would make this a fantastic place to visit in any season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nThe Takamori Dengaku Course<\/strong> is the main feature on the menu, which includes: Konjac Vegetable, Tofu, <\/strong>Tsurunokoimo<\/strong><\/em> Taro, <\/strong>Yamame<\/strong><\/em> Trout, <\/strong>Nama-age <\/strong><\/em>Fried Tofu, Dry Corn Rice with Japanese Pickles, and Japanese Dumpling Soup<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe dengaku<\/em> made in Takamori is a sweeter variety compared to other regions. As Mrs. Honda tells me, all the ingredients are locally sourced<\/strong> and made in-house. From the tsurunokoimo<\/em> taro grown in the mineral rich soil of Aso, to the trout from a nearby fishery,<\/strong> the restaurant is the result of a collaborative, local effort ongoing for over 60 years of business.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThere are additional dishes to add on top of your course meal if desired, and English menus are also available.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n <\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe skewers of konjac vegetable, tofu, taro, and trout come first. With a true commitment to fresh ingredients, the trout may wiggle a little on the skewers. If you\u2019re a bit squeamish, you may want to look away. Placing them into a teepee-shape over the hot ambers, the staff instruct me to rotate them as they broil. Though you may see staff members use bare hands, I wholly recommend that you avail yourself to the woven gloves provided. (Unless you want to lose your fingertips!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A tip for eating the trout:<\/span> Eat it like a corn on the cob by holding the skewer from both ends. You’ll look like a local if you do, unlike your writer who, unaware of the regular customs of eating trout on a skewer, used chopsticks to ungracefully pick it apart. May you learn from my errors. <\/p>\n\n\n\nWhile the skewers cook, the remaining course arrives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n