{"id":67979,"date":"2020-09-25T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-09-25T01:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=67979"},"modified":"2024-04-11T14:03:59","modified_gmt":"2024-04-11T05:03:59","slug":"akabane-tokyo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/akabane-tokyo\/","title":{"rendered":"Akabane: A Day in the Charming Neighborhood of Tokyo"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Sometimes, coincidences give you incredible opportunities to visit a place you wouldn’t have otherwise. My visit to Akabane<\/strong> (\u8d64\u7fbd) was a matter of fate <\/strong>since I didn’t consider visiting it when I first came to Japan. That was until a friend living in this neighborhood invited me to spend the day with her. This is how I explored Akabane,<\/strong> a relatively unknown area of Tokyo with many hidden gems. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"An<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Streets
Street view in Akabane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Akabane is located in the northernmost area of\u00a0Tokyo<\/strong>. Bordering\u00a0Saitama Prefecture<\/a> (\u57fc\u7389\u770c), Akabane acts as a connection for those commuting to the central part of Tokyo every day.\u00a0Although it is a bit far from the center of Tokyo, I happened to be living in the nearby\u00a0Adachi neighborhood<\/strong> (\u8db3\u7acb\u533a),\u00a0<\/strong>so it was easy enough for me to visit Akabane. And I must say, it was worth it! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Akabane’s<\/strong> Place in History During the Edo Period<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

During the Edo Period, Akabane was a part of the Nikko Kaido route<\/strong>. This was an essential route in the Tokugawa shogunate’s times that linked Edo (the city of Tokyo) and the<\/strong> Toshogu shrine of Nikko.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nowadays, Akabane is a stop along people’s route between Tokyo and Saitama. Since Akabane Station <\/strong>(\u8d64\u7fbd\u99c5) opened in 1885, people don’t often get off to check out the many gems hidden in this area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"The
Akabane at night<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

My Day in the Charming Neighbourhood of Akabane<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

When I got off the train at JR Akabane station, my first thought was that it didn’t look like Tokyo.<\/strong> The streets and city atmosphere of Akabane reminded me of other smaller cities. After I met my friend, we headed to our first stop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Cat Sanctuary at Cat Caf\u00e9<\/strong> Goma<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

*This place was closed in July 2019<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

To begin my introduction to Akabane, we visited a local cat caf\u00e9 called Cat Caf\u00e9 Goma.<\/strong> Located about a 15-minute walk from the JR Akabane station, this cat caf\u00e9 was unlike those I’d seen in Tokyo. Located on the ground floor of a residential area of Akabane, <\/strong>Cat Caf\u00e9 Goma <\/strong>acts as a cat welfare center. Staff rescue stray cats and care for them in the caf\u00e9 and patrons can visit them. Moreover, if you like any of these cats and have a resident card in Japan, you can adopt one!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"A
Cat lounging in Cat Caf\u00e9 Goma<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The
Sitting area at Cat Caf\u00e9 Goma<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There is limited space in the cafe, so it’s advisable to make a reservation in advance<\/strong>. The staff speak little to no English, but they are lovely and friendly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Convenient and Cheap Shopping on Shotengai<\/em> Shopping Street<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On the way to our next destination, we passed through the Akabane Suzuran<\/em>-d\u014dri Sh\u014dtengai<\/em><\/strong> (\u8d64\u7fbd\u30b9\u30ba\u30e9\u30f3\u901a\u308a\u5546\u5e97\u8857), an old commercial shopping street with a variety of shops.<\/strong> I want to highlight the enormous Daiso, where I bought some presents, and the Okashinomachioka<\/strong><\/a> <\/strong>sweets shop selling low-priced Japanese treats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"General
Akabane Shotengai<\/em> shopping street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The
An enormous Daiso in Akabane Shotengai<\/em> shopping street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Near the sh\u014dtengai<\/em> is a Catholic church<\/strong>. The Catholic Church of Akabane<\/strong><\/a> <\/strong>was built after World War II and is devoted to Mary, Our Lady of the Assumption. Outside, there is a garden, and on August 15, the church celebrates Saint Mary’s Day with a festival of concerts and shop stalls on the street. <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Catholic
 Catholic Church of Akabane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hachiman Shrine: A Popular Visit for Pop Idol Fans<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In every new neighborhood tour, I like to include a visit to a temple or a shrine. In Akabane, I chose Hachiman Shrine<\/strong> (\u516b\u5e61\u795e\u793e) located a 5-minute walk from the JR Akabane Station. I was surprised by the fact that this sacred place was located next to the train tracks. Undoubtedly, it is an accurate reflection of Japan’s ancient and modern dichotomy!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Hidden entrance between the train tracks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Views
Modern views from the shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Entrance
The main entrance of Hachiman Shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The shrine follows Fengshui’s ideology and has several ema<\/em><\/strong> (\u7d75\u99ac, a wooden board to write a wish) hanging throughout the grounds. Ema <\/em>with the “8” infinity symbol<\/strong> are also for sale at the shrine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Japan, there is a popular Japanese idol group called Kanjani-8<\/strong><\/a> that uses the infinity symbol, and many fans come to the shrine to buy goods with the “8” symbol.<\/strong> We visited during the morning and caught sight of some young girls praying at the shrine (some of whom I presume are fans of the idol group.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Rabbit
Stone rabbit at Hachiman Shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Shrine
Ema<\/em> (\u7d75\u99ac) with the painted “8”.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Girl
Praying at Hachiman Shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Girl<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Local Shops: Tainen-ya<\/em> and Kobuna<\/em> Embroidery Shop<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

On the way back to the station, we decided to stop in some stores in the area. The first was Kobuna Embroidery Shop<\/a><\/strong>, a custom patch store.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Details
Kobuna Embroidery Shop<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Beautiful
Kobuna Embroidery Shop sign<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Five minutes away from the embroidery shop is Tainen-ya<\/em>,<\/strong> a 100-year-old<\/strong> dagashi-ya<\/em> (\u99c4\u83d3\u5b50\u5c4b ) sweets store<\/strong>. The store sells products made in Tokyo, and from Miyagi<\/strong><\/a> <\/strong>and <\/strong>Iwate<\/strong><\/a> Prefecture<\/strong> to help their recovery from damage caused by the 2011 Tohoku<\/a> earthquake<\/a>. There are all kinds of sweets, including traditional, modern and handmade candies and treats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Different
Toys and sweets for sale at Tainen-ya<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"General
Aisle in Tainen-ya<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Old
Old game machines outside of Tainen-ya<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Showa Retro Charm of Ichibangai<\/em> <\/strong>in Akabane<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Finally, we arrived at what became my favorite place: the Ichibangai shopping street.<\/strong> It is a narrow street with restaurants located at the north-east exit of the JR Akabane Station.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Ichibangai<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"General
Ichibangai shopping street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Surroundings
Outdoor seating on Ichibangai shopping street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ichibangai shopping street reminds me of other izakaya<\/em> (\u5c45\u9152\u5c4b) areas in Tokyo, but this place stole my heart. Why? Perhaps, it’s the early 20th-century atmosphere that I feel is lost in most of Tokyo’s neighborhoods. This whole area is reminiscent of the Showa Period<\/strong> (1926-1989), and much of this aesthetic feels frozen in time at Ichibangai. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Retro
The retro style of the Showa era is strong in Ichibangai<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Details<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Restaurants
There were many izakaya<\/em> options in Ichibangai shopping street<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It was noon, and one of the best places to go for lunch is Marumasu-ya <\/strong>(\u307e\u308b\u307e\u3059\u5bb6). Marumasu-ya is an izakaya<\/em> that opens at 9:30 am and is popular during lunch and dinner hours. Even on the weekday, we had to wait in line. However, it was worth it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Marumasuya
People wait in line for Marumasu-ya <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The
Inside Marumasu-ya <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

There isn’t a single word spoken in English in this establishment. If you know Japanese or can go with someone who does, don’t miss out on <\/strong>this opportunity to try Japanese tapas at Marumasu-ya.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Japanese
My order of Tonkatsu, a Japanese dish of breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Small<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"All
Menu items at Marumasu-ya <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Eating Japanese Oden<\/em> Hot-Pot at Maruken Suisan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Our next stop was Maruken Suisan.<\/strong> The restaurant <\/strong>is over 50-years-old and famous for its oden<\/em> (<\/strong>\u304a\u3067\u3093), a type of hot-pot,<\/strong> and its <\/em>dashiwari-sake<\/em>, a glass of sake mixed with oden<\/em> soup.<\/strong> Patrons add a choice of toppings to the soup, such as eggs, battered fish, and vegetables, and is hugely popular with restaurant-goers. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Due to its popularity, Maruken Suisan is always full of customers. It’s important to note that customers are encouraged not to linger and can’t stay longer than 15 minutes after ordering their meal. Once we finished, we quickly left to allow the next customer to take our place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"People<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"We
Maruken Suisan is famous for its oden<\/em> hot-pot, and is always busy with a line of customers waiting to get a seat.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"The
Watching as our serving of oden<\/em> is made for us at Maruken Suisan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"My<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"this
Our oden<\/em> serving<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
<\/div>\n\n\n\n

How to Get to Akabane<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Akabane Station (\u8d64\u7fbd\u99c5) is served by a variety of JR lines: JR, Keihin-Tohoku Line, Saikyo Line, Ueno-Tokyo Line, Tohoku Main Line, Takasaki Line, <\/strong>and Shonan- Shinjuku Line<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alternatively, the Tokyo Metro Namboku Line<\/strong> serves the nearby Akabane Iwabuchi station <\/strong>(\u8d64\u7fbd\u5ca9\u6df5\u99c5).

From Shinjuku Station<\/strong> (\u65b0\u5bbf\u99c5), take the Saikyo Line to Akabane station in 21 minutes. If you take the train from Tokyo Station<\/strong> you can take the Ueno-Tokyo line to Akabane station within 18 minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n