{"id":74037,"date":"2020-12-03T17:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-12-03T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=74037"},"modified":"2024-11-25T22:18:48","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T13:18:48","slug":"niigata-sado-island-history-culture-gold","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/niigata-sado-island-history-culture-gold\/","title":{"rendered":"Niigata\u2019s Sado: An Island of Rich History, Culture, and Gold"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\u201cIt takes two entire years to pass a taiko apprenticeship. That means no drinking, no smoking, no social media. Do you think you could do it?<\/strong>\u201d asks experienced taiko instructor Tomohiro Yonetani, with his tongue firmly planted in cheek. <\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cWhoa, yeah, probably not,\u201d I laughed, unable to give an eloquent answer to a question asked with so much humor. It was a question also filled with a clear underlying message about the seriousness and passion to which Sado\u2019s taiko drummers dedicate their lives to perfecting and showcasing the art form that has come to define the island.<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cHow many people manage to make it through the entire two years?\u201d I asked, hoping to hear about all the failures to feel better about my lack of personal discipline. Typically during each intake, Yonetani explained, \u201cabout 12 people enter as disciples, but few make it through the rigorous training process. Sometimes eight or so, sometimes just two.\u201d This exchange took place at Sado Island\u2019s Taiko Centre (Tatakoukan). It was the first stop off of my three-day visit to Niigata and the first of my two days to be spent on Sado, an island filled with history, culture, and gold<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For those uninitiated, taiko is a style of traditional Japanese drum<\/strong>. It\u2019s ubiquitous at matsuri and is gaining attention from audiences across the globe. The Sado Island Taiko Center (also known as Tatakokan) is the headquarters of taiko collective Kodo,<\/em> potentially the world\u2019s most famous taiko drumming ensemble<\/strong>, who travels the globe wowing audiences with their physical drumming performances. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The collective formed in 1981. Since their beginnings, Kodo<\/em> has given over 6,500 performances in 52 countries on five continents. Annually the group also hosts the large-scale \u2018Earth Celebration\u2019 event, an internationally attended showcase of taiko drumming excellence and the group\u2019s desire to transcend cultural and language boundaries through the power of music. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The center is home to an impressive collection of taiko drums of all styles. There\u2019s a collection of standard drums called katsugi oke daiko<\/em> and two massive taiko drums hand-carved from the same enormous 600-year-old keyaki (Japanese zelkova) the regulars affectionately call Mr. Potato and Miss Pig. Wandering between the drums and trying my hand at belting some off-rhythm progressions, I could feel the power and humor that goes into keeping the culture of Sado alive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Although taiko is a richly historic performing art, there\u2019s something about Sado Island\u2019s Taiko Centre \u2014 or perhaps it was the infectious energy of Yonetani \u2014 that felt very young and of the moment. It wasn\u2019t until strolling through the island\u2019s southern Shukunegi district that I felt a sense of time or age. Known colloquially as Shukunegi Village, the area remains a piece of history relatively untouched by modern development<\/strong> since its peak during the Edo period to the early Meiji period, when it was a hotspot for maritime workers based at the nearby port. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Featuring weaving, narrow alleys, and small canals<\/strong>, it\u2019s like something out of a storybook. Many of the gracefully aging double story wooden houses that populate the area were constructed by ship carpenters using similar materials, giving the site a gracefully aging, natural charm. Today many of the homes remain in use by locals as private residences and public businesses, like restaurants and cafes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n It wasn\u2019t until the second day of the trip, when some small talk about the day\u2019s plans opened up a discussion about Sado\u2019s history<\/a><\/strong>, that I really understood the island\u2019s context. I was seated next to my guide for the day, Takayuki Tsukakoshi, a man who grew up in Tokyo but had relocated to Sado, his mother\u2019s hometown. \u201cToday, we\u2019re going to look at a few gold mines,\u201d he said. \u201cMaybe you\u2019re familiar with goldmines from back home in Australia?\u201d\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cMaybe Australians and Sado-ites are kind of similar,\u201d I joked, trying to draw humorously tenuous links between Tsukakoshi\u2019s much-loved home island and my own. \u201cWe both had gold rush histories, and we both come from criminal descendants,\u201d I continued. \u201cAhhhh, no, no, no,\u201d Tsukakoshi interjected, not quite offended, but eager to correct my misassumption. \u201cSado wasn\u2019t an island of criminals. It was an island of political exiles.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n It turns out there\u2019s a very big difference, Tsukakoshi went on to explain; Sado\u2019s descendants were court nobles and intellectuals who found themselves in conflict with the governing bodies at the time<\/strong>. Looking into the island\u2019s history, one of the first figures to call Sado their adopted home was Hozumi Asomioyu, who found himself here in 722. He was a poet who criticized the imperial family. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Later, other highly regarded cultural figures came, like Emperor Juntoku in 1221, after losing the Jokyu War and Buddhist monk Nichiren in 1271, whose criticisms of the Kamakura Shogunate and other schools of Buddhism sealed his fate as a Sado resident. Once you realize what you could almost call the \u2018pedigree\u2019 of Sado\u2019s historical population, the island\u2019s rich connection to culture and passion for the arts makes a lot of sense. In many ways, the island was a cultural playground, a world unhindered by mainstream mainland politics, where thinkers and dissidents could roam free. <\/p>\n\n\n\n You could say Sado is an island with a golden history<\/strong>, from the political royalty to actual gold mines. The mountains of Sado were once abundant with silver and gold<\/strong>. There are plenty of opportunities to marvel at this fascinating history and learn more about this mineral, which shaped the island. The best place to start is at Kirarium Sado<\/strong>, the newly established information center. The exhibits here are mainly video-based (all bilingual). They offer a comprehensive insight into the history, processes, politics, and economic impact of Sado\u2019s gold rush<\/strong> had not only on the island but on the rest of Japan and even the world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The mountains of Sado were once abundant with rich minerals. The minerals included gold and silver, which shaped this fascinating island\u2019s economy, landscape, and culture. The primary gold mine, Sado Kinzan, was the most productive in Japan, operating between 1601 until 1974. It was closed in 1989. Today, it\u2019s open again, but as an immersive attraction where you wander the two most prominent tunnels, the Sodayu Tunnel and Doyu Tunnel, and imagine just what it may have been like as a gold miner all those years ago. At first, I was a little spooked but later impressed by the weaving tunnel displays and the almost slightly too-human like robot-miners that populate the site in recreations of scenes from the mine\u2019s flourishing eras.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After a hard day\u2019s work in the mines, you always need to blow off a little steam or at least have an end of day treat to look forward to. For me, that came in the form of a visit to the globally recognized Hokusetsu Sake Brewery<\/strong>. The brewery was established in 1872 as a way to make use of Niigata\u2019s high quality, delicious rice. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Hokusetsu uses larger than average rice grains<\/strong>, as they polish their rice until it loses around 35% of its mass; this is to ensure the taste is smooth and not too harsh. After tasting, I can confidently say that the quality of the rice does mean a high-quality sake. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The visit\u2019s biggest highlight was being led down to the dark, cold cellar room where one particular sake is given special musical treatment. \u201cThe sake inside this room listens to Kitaro\u2019s music all day,\u201d explains Hokusetsu\u2019s President Hiroshi Hazu. This technique is said to separate and create smaller alcohol molecules to enhance its smooth texture and taste. Hokusetsu Sake Brewery also supplies sake to luxury sushi chain (co-owned by Robert De Niro) Nobu\u2019s restaurants in New York, Los Angeles, London, Milan, Dubai, and many other cities in the world. <\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201cThe next place we\u2019re visiting is super popular with Taiwanese guests,\u201d explained my travel companion, Tachibana-san, as we approached the Tarai boat (<\/a>a.k.a tub boat) \u2013 Yajima Experience Centre. \u201cIt\u2019s because the tub boats are like the ones in\u00a0Spirited Away,<\/em><\/strong>\u201d<\/em>\u00a0he continued. Rumor has it it\u2019s the humble little fishing center that inspired Hayao Miyazaki<\/a>, but as most fans would know, he\u2019s not a man to explicitly divulge his inspirations.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n These small but sturdy, shallow barrel boats<\/strong> were designed in the mid-late 1800s as boats used by local women for collecting seaweed and shellfish and fishing on the calm waters of Sado. We followed a local driver and hopped aboard for a short but scenic cruise through the clear turquoise water near Ogi Port. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Shortly after, we hopped onto a much faster motor-powered boat from the other side of the port to take a cruise over to the rich-blue Ryuodo Caves, also known as \u201cSado\u2019s Blue Grotto.<\/strong>\u201d As its name suggests, when the sun hits it just so, the cave glitters like a sapphire in the sun; it\u2019s the type of natural beauty which no photo can do justice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As a little send-off on the final day, I was back on mainland Niigata and had the absolute pleasure of embarking on what I can confidently predict will be one of the most scenic and luxurious train journeys<\/strong> of my life \u2014 on the Setsugekka<\/strong> Train<\/strong>. This stunning red train runs through coastal Niigata\u2019s picturesque landscape<\/strong>, offering views of both the rugged mountains to the sweeping sea. With the largest train windows in Japan, there\u2019s more than ample opportunity to take it all in. <\/p>\n\n\n\n As well as serving up stunning views, the training package also serves multi-course lunch<\/strong>, French or Japanese depending on the time of day. Crafted by world-recognized chefs, they use the area\u2019s best local produce to deliver an \u2018ekiben\u2019 (train lunch box) I\u2019ll never forget. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The journey between Joetsu-Myoko Station (\u4e0a\u8d8a\u5999\u9ad8\u99c5, J\u014detsumy\u014dk\u014d-eki<\/em>) to Itoigawa Station (\u7cf8\u9b5a\u5ddd\u99c5, Itoigawa-eki) ran for about three hours. Along the journey, we were treated to a few guided stop-off destinations along the way where you can get out, sketch your legs, and learn a little about the area\u2019s fascinating history. You can even spot Niigata\u2019s famous koi safely swimming in streams that flowed through the Setsugekka train\u2019s tracks, like something out of a whimsical Ghibli film. What a fitting end. <\/p>\n\n\n\n When in Sado, I had the pleasure of staying at Hotel Urashima<\/a><\/strong>, a modern boutique hotel with ryokan charm and elegance. The hotel is separated into two wings, each envisioned by leading Japanese architects Hiroshi Naiko and Koh Kitayama. Both wings were designed to harmonize with the island\u2019s natural charm and feature easy ocean access as well as lush green surroundings. The dining was world-class. The hotel offers both French and sumptuous Japanese cuisine utilizing Sado\u2019s delicious produce, including plenty of fresh-caught seafood and mouth-watering vegetables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Back on the mainland, I spent the night at the most famous hotel in the alpine Myoko Kogen area, Akakura Kanko Hotel<\/a><\/strong>, which looks a little like something out of a Wes Anderson cult hit. The hotel was built in 1937, and its classic and iconic facade remains today \u2014 with a few new additions, including luxurious spas, French and Japanese restaurants, and a stylish \u201cAqua Bar.\u201d Two of its other key features are its stunning location, offering panoramic views of the neighboring alpine ranges from multiple vantage points and onsen facilities featuring soothing mineral-rich water pumped directly from the nearby Akakura Onsen.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n From Tokyo, take the shinkansen from Tokyo Station<\/a> to Joetsumyoko Station.<\/strong> From Joetsumyoko Station, there\u2019s a bus that goes to Naoetsu port<\/strong>, the departing port for Sado Island. Alternatively, you can also drive and bring your car on the ferry to Sado.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\nTaiko and Kodo: The Beating Heart of Sado<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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A Stroll Through the Edo Period Village of Shukunegi<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A Brief Overview of Sado\u2019s History<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Tour of the Sado Gold Mine and Sights Around<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Hokusetsu Sake Brewery<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Tarai Boat: Studio Ghibli in Real Life<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Niigata’s Scenic Train Ride on the Setsugekka<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Where to Stay in Sado and Niigata<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Hotel Urashima<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Akakura Kanko Hotel<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Getting to Sado<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
The Sado Island Taiko Centre\u00a0<\/strong><\/td> Opening hours: <\/strong>9:00 am – 5:00 pm (Closed Monday)<\/td><\/tr> Kirarium Sado<\/a><\/strong><\/td> Opening hours:<\/strong> 8:30 am – 5:00 pm<\/td><\/tr> Sado Kinzan<\/strong><\/td> Opening hours: <\/strong>8:30 am – 5:00 pm<\/td><\/tr> Hokusetsu Sake Brewery<\/a><\/strong><\/td> Opening hours: <\/strong>9:00 am – 4:30 pm <\/td><\/tr> Tarai Boat Experience at Yajima Taiken Koryukan<\/strong><\/td> Opening hours: <\/strong>April to October, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm<\/td><\/tr> Setsugekka Train<\/strong><\/td> Departs from: <\/strong>Joetsu-Myoko Station and Itoigawa Station
Running time:<\/strong> Depends on the season. Check online for details.\u00a0<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n