{"id":75414,"date":"2021-01-29T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-01-29T01:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=75414"},"modified":"2024-05-20T12:01:01","modified_gmt":"2024-05-20T03:01:01","slug":"yusuhara-town-architectural-shikoku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/yusuhara-town-architectural-shikoku\/","title":{"rendered":"Yusuhara Town: An Architectural Wonderland Deep in Shikoku\u2019s Mountains"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

While it may not be as well known as some of the more mainland prefectures, since my first visit a couple of years ago, Kochi has gained a particular position in my heart as one of the most underrated prefectures in Japan, and what makes visiting Shikoku<\/a> so exciting. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kochi is the epitome of what makes exploring \u2018deeper\u2019 Japan so special. It\u2019s a land of hidden delights, untouched natural beauty<\/strong> from the cloud-tickling mountains to the crystal clear water, and as I was soon to learn, a fascinating modern cultural legacy<\/strong> (in the form of world-class architecture). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nakatsu Gorge: An Introduction to Niyodo Blue<\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I started my trip with a visit to Nakatsu Gorge<\/strong>. It was my first experience witnessing the almost hypnotic blue of the area\u2019s famous Niyodo River (its water is known as Niyodo Blue). Known for its crystal-like clarity and almost electric blue color, this water is the stuff of legends, and to use the cliche \u2014 which feels quite apt here \u2014 must be seen to be believed. While I\u2019d seen plenty of photos of the area before, it\u2019s hard to fully comprehend the reality of Niyodo River\u2019s water until you\u2019ve witnessed it in the flesh. A blue so striking it feels almost supernatural.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n

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NakatsuGorge<\/span>is famous for its aptly named “Niyodo Blue” waters.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Part natural wonder, part human-made walking path, the area is the ideal combination for those traveling in groups with walkers and hikers of different abilities. It\u2019s easy enough to scale as a casual stroll, but there\u2019s potential to head off on a \u2018choose your own adventure\u2019 style journey. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Nakatsu Gorge has plenty of natural and human-made walkings paths while you enjoy the natural scenery. <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The Nakatsu Gorge <\/span>trail\u2019s promenade runs at a very casual and comfortable course to explore about th<\/span>e two and a half kilometers. As you go deeper into the canyon, you\u2019ll find that the promenade splits off into multiple routes, some more challenging than others. While I only had a limited time here, it\u2019s possible to jam-pack a few hours with sightseeing and exploring the area, following the Niyodo River and admiring the views, including spectacular scenes from high above the hilly inclines and admiring the transitional colors of the autumn foliage. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Washi Studio Kamikoya<\/strong>: The Art of Papermaking<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The next destination was deep into the Otado valley to visit the traditional Japanese paper (washi) workshop Washi Studio Kamikoya<\/strong> during my visit. The workshop is a proudly family affair. It\u2019s run by Dutch artisan Rogier Uitenboogaart, his wife, and also his son, Yohei. As he told me during our paper making class, Uitenboogaart moved to Japan around four decades ago. While working as an artist back in Europe, he discovered the beauty of washi paper and decided to visit Japan to learn more about the craft, and in short, he never left. <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n

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Dutch artisan Rogier Uitenboogaart (right), his wife, and son Yohei (left) runs a Japanese washi<\/em> paper workshop in Kochi. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Instead, he set up his own studio-turned workshop-turned guest house <\/strong>overlooking the scenic valleys of regional Kochi. Here is where I found myself, under the gentle guidance of Yohei, forearms deep in a bucket of gluey, sludgy, slimy paper liquid, learning about the art of washi crafting. The workshop is surrounded by lush untapped plants, including the fibrous plant Kozo and the key element of washi paper. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Yohei handles a piece of kozo, the key element to washi paper. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In recent years, Kamikoya has become a popular destination with regular tourists and artists alike, who make their journey here to study the art of traditional Japanese paper (washi) making alongside the Uitenboogaart family. As I come to learn, this place is particularly famous. Much of the paper they make here collaborates with architects, luxury hotels, and restaurants to provide interior fittings like shoji (sliding doors), wallpaper, and light shades<\/strong>. The workshop also has an online relationship with legendary Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the man behind the new Olympic Stadium, and countless other iconic structures. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The studio-turned workshop-turned guest house of Kamikoya collaborates with architects, luxury hotels, and restaurants to provide interior fittings like shoji (sliding doors), wallpaper, and light shades.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Yusuhara Town: Kengo Kuma\u2019s Playground<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I was impressed to hear about Kamikoya\u2019s connection to Kuma\u2019s work, but I was fast to learn that Kengo Kuma would be the central topic of this trip<\/strong>. Generally considered one of the leading architects in modern Japan<\/strong>, Kuma and his architecture firm, Kengo Kuma and Associates, have reshaped this country\u2019s landscape in a way quite unlike anyone else. Kuma\u2019s work is known for its modern geometric, almost rhythmic lines and his love of playing with natural light and natural elements, like raw, untreated wood and other organic materials. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Kengo<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Tonight I would stay in a Kuma-designed hotel, Kumo no Ueno Hotel, but before resting, I had a busy afternoon itinerary of exploring Yusuhara Town. It is the home of Kumo no Ueno Hotel, and a small, mountainous village that has become a living breathing exhibition of Kuma\u2019s most impressive works. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first stop was Yusuhara Machino-eki, a local market, hotel, and souvenir store<\/strong>. It was a stunning piece of architecture that combines traditional, rural, and natural materials with modern, stylish design ideologies. Sitting proudly in the center of town, the building features thatched-style roofing<\/strong> that crawls down the side of the building, emanating a feeling of warmth and drawing clear visual inspiration from the town\u2019s foliage flanked surrounds. An impressive multi-purpose piece, it was just a teaser for what I had in store.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Yusuhara Machino-eki, a local market, hotel, and souvenir store, with a stunning <\/strong>thatched-style roofing feature down the side of the building.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Kumo no Ueno Toshokan (Yusuhara Community Library)<\/strong> an<\/span>d the neighboring elderly care home YURURI Yusuhara is the centerpiece of Yusuhara-town. It\u2019s an entirely community-minded space surrounded by a sports facility and daycare center<\/strong>, as well as plenty of open space to soak up the laid back ambiance of this mountainous village. The library\u2019s interior is iconically Kuma, feeling more like a high-end bookshop or cafe than a small-town library, but that\u2019s not to say it\u2019s not inviting. It features plenty of wood<\/strong>, both as design flourishes and for structural purposes, and most of the materials here were sourced locally.<\/p>\n\n\n

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The interior space of Kumo no Ueno Toshokan (Yusuhara Community Library) has the atmosphere of a high-end bookshop. <\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Another key feature is the undulating floors, which were designed to allow smooth traffic light flow and make the most of the space, which can host larger gatherings and events like concerts and lectures. Warm, light-filled, and timelessly elegant, it\u2019s a dream of a library that encourages community gathering and a vibrant exchange of ideas. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

YURURI<\/strong>, the facility next door, sits somewhere between being a local community center, a temporary care home, and a nursing home, offering care and wellness facilities \u2014 like the on-site gym \u2014 in a central, socially connected, and naturally stunning location. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The combined library and welfare facility create a community-minded space.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What I learned from the staff also is that in winter, when the snow gets heavy and mobility is difficult, elderly guests from Yusuhara are welcome to stay temporarily for free to ensure their safety, provide ease of accessibility to necessary facilities, and social engagement, as well as peace of mind for the families. It\u2019s an inspiring image of what a community space and aged care home could be. Please note that with the exception of a few spaces, the nursing home Yururi is not open to the public, so you will only be able to see the exterior.<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kumo<\/span> no Ueno Hotel: Dreamy Mountain Escape<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

With a name that translates to \u201chotel above the clouds<\/strong>,\u201d Kumo n<\/span>o Ueno Hotel doesn\u2019t disappoint. This Kuma designed hotel is like a livable piece of art. It features stylishly minimal rooms<\/strong>, a light-filled dining area with floor to ceiling glass windows, onsen baths, and a museum dedicated to Kuma\u2019s work in Yusuhara town<\/strong>. It\u2019s a true showcase of Kuma\u2019s innovative design ethos, melding the worlds of Yusuhara\u2019s vibrant natural surroundings with hotel luxury. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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At Kumo n<\/span>o Ueno Hotel, you’ll experience the stylishly minimal rooms, a light-filled dining area with floor to ceiling glass windows, onsen baths, a museum dedicated to Kuma\u2019s work, and meals of Yusuhara’s freshest ingredients. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I had the pleasure of enjoying dinner and breakfast at the facility\u2019s simply designed, modern restaurant that serves up classic Japanese style multi-course cuisine, showcasing some of the best produce from across Shikoku and Japan.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u203bThe hotel will be closed from October 2021 to the end of March 2024 for renovation (swimming pool and hot spring will be open as usual).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Getting to Yusuhara Town<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

From JR Kochi station, take the express to JR Susaki Station (\u9808\u5d0e\u99c5), then switch to the local bus. It is worth noting that there is limited access to town by local bus (the last bus for Yusuhara leaves Susaki Station at 19:09)<\/a>. If you can rent a car (there are plenty of car rentals at Kochi Ryoma Airport \u9ad8\u77e5\u9f8d\u99ac\u7a7a\u6e2f), it\u2019s recommended. \u203bTrain and bus schedules are subject to change.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nakatsu Gorge <\/strong>\u4e2d\u6d25\u6e13\u8c37
<\/span>Nanokawa, Niyodogawa, Agawa District, Kochi 781-1741
Website: https:\/\/visitkochijapan.com\/en\/see-and-do\/10014<\/a><\/span><\/td><\/tr>
Washi Studio Kamikoya<\/strong><\/strong> Washi Studio \u304b\u307f\u3053\u3084
1678 Otado, Yusuhara, Takaoka District, Kochi 785-0603
Opening hours: <\/strong>9:00 am – 6:00 pm
Website: https:\/\/kamikoya-washi.com\/en\/<\/a><\/span><\/td><\/tr>
Kumo no Ueno Hotel<\/strong> \u96f2\u306e\u4e0a\u306e\u30db\u30c6\u30eb
3799-3 Tarogawa, Yusuhara, Takaoka District, Kochi 785-0621
Website: http:\/\/kumono-ue.jp\/<\/a><\/td><\/tr>
Yusuhara Machino-eki<\/strong> \u307e\u3061\u306e\u99c5 \u3086\u3059\u306f\u3089 <\/em>
1196-1 Yusuhara, Yusihar-Cho, Takaoka-gun, Kochi 785-0610
Opening hours: 8:30 am – 6:00 pm
Website: http:\/\/www.town.yusuhara.kochi.jp\/kanko\/kuma-kengo\/town-station.html<\/a><\/span><\/td><\/tr>
Kumo no Ueno Toshokan (Yusuhara Community Library)<\/strong> <\/span>\u96f2\u306e\u4e0a\u306e\u56f3\u66f8\u9928
<\/a>1212-2 Yusuhara, Takaoka District, Kochi 785-0610
O<\/strong>pening hours:<\/strong> 9:00am – 8:00pm (closed Tuesday)
Website: http:\/\/kumonoue-lib.jp\/<\/a><\/span><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n