{"id":84497,"date":"2021-08-31T11:11:33","date_gmt":"2021-08-31T02:11:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=84497"},"modified":"2021-08-31T11:11:35","modified_gmt":"2021-08-31T02:11:35","slug":"enoshima-tokyo-eternal-spiritual-pleasure-island","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/enoshima-tokyo-eternal-spiritual-pleasure-island\/","title":{"rendered":"Enoshima, Tokyo\u2019s Eternal Spiritual Pleasure Island"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The legendary island of Enoshima <\/strong>(\u6c5f\u30ce\u5cf6)<\/a> is just a stone\u2019s throw away (or one hour by train) from Tokyo, and is best known for the spiritual pilgrimage along its towering cliffs, all the way down to the Iwaya caves where its original shrines were built in 552.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fujisawa<\/strong> (\u85e4\u6ca2) is the gateway to this mystical island, and not coincidentally the 6th station on the ancient Tokaido road from Edo to Kyoto. Perhaps the best way to approach Enoshima is through its hedonistic portrayal in Edo-period ukiyo-e: lively scenes of fishing, diving, eating, poetry and performing arts, at a time when the steep rocky island could be reached by walking across a long sandbar jutting into Sagami Bay (\u76f8\u6a21\u6e7e). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Discover Enoshima through Edo-period Ukiyo-e<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

So I was delighted to prelude my seaside journey with a visit to the Fujisawa Ukiyo-e Museum<\/strong><\/a> (\u85e4\u6fa4\u6d6e\u4e16\u7d75\u9928), just a short walk away from Tsujido (\u8fbb\u5802) station. The exhibition space is free to enter and displays many finely detailed woodcut prints by famous ukiyo-e artist Hiroshige and others depicting the region during the flourishing late Edo period, from dramatic ensemble views of Enoshima life with Mt. Fuji on the horizon<\/a> to parodic portrayals of mermaid-like female abalone divers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"ukiyo-e
The Fujisawa Ukiyo-e Museum displays many prints depicting scenes of Fujisawa post station on the Tokaido road.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Arriving on the Odakyu railway line, my first pleasure just was alighting at the colorfully decorated Katase-Enoshima station<\/strong> (\u7247\u702c\u6c5f\u30ce\u5cf6\u99c5), modeled after the undersea Dragon Palace of Japanese folklore. From there, my pilgrimage began with a walk down Subana-dori<\/strong>, a street lined with Hawaiian-themed caf\u00e9s, snacks, souvenirs and sports shops.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Embark on a Pilgrimage to Enoshima Shrine<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Walking across the footbridge to Enoshima felt like walking right into a modern-day ukiyo-e print with the Sea Candle lighthouse rising above the trees. I passed under the island\u2019s historic bronze torii, then up Benzaiten Nakamise street<\/strong> toward the spiritual center of the island, Enoshima Shrine<\/strong> (\u6c5f\u5cf6\u795e\u793e).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On my way up through Monzenmachi (temple town), I spotted the red octopus of Asahi Honten<\/strong><\/a> (\u3042\u3055\u3072\u672c\u5e97) on the left. This flagship shop is famous for its takoyaki senbei<\/em>, large flat rice crackers that include at least one whole octopus, if not shrimp or local shirasu<\/em> whitebait, freshly pressed on the spot. Irresistibly attracted to the eye-candy, I bit into the shop\u2019s own novelty blue senbei<\/em> with multicolor-dyed shirasu<\/em> for a crispy treat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n