{"id":87126,"date":"2021-12-27T20:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-12-27T11:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=87126"},"modified":"2024-11-25T22:17:24","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T13:17:24","slug":"top-things-to-see-and-do-tsuruoka-nature-hot-springs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/top-things-to-see-and-do-tsuruoka-nature-hot-springs\/","title":{"rendered":"Tsuruoka: A Journey into Nature, Hot Springs, and the Realm of Spirit"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Tsuruoka City (\u9db4\u5ca1\u5e02) and its surrounding region are, without a doubt, one of Japan\u2019s most unique, hidden gems for travelers. Full of a long, rich history that touches on Japan\u2019s spiritual roots in Buddhism, a dense and creative culinary tradition, beachside hot springs, and deep forest hiking trails: Tsuruoka has something for every type of traveler, and should not be overlooked when planning an itinerary to Japan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Located on Japan\u2019s main island of Honshu in the northeast along the western coast, Tsuruoka is a chilly, snowy area blanketed in snow during winter months, and cozy and comfortable in shorts and T-shirts in summer months. A formerly critical location along a major trade route the Kitamaebune (\u5317\u524d\u8239) running from Osaka to its northernmost prefecture Hokkaido, Tsuruoka has soaked up a diverse array of cultures during its history. Locals, too, can find plenty to enjoy, and its location relatively close to its eastern companion city Sendai makes it easy enough to get to by train, plane, or car.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hike the Sacred Mountains of Dewa Sanzan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The standout feature of Tsuruoka is definitely the three sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan<\/strong> (also known as \u201cthe three mountains of Dewa\u201d), Mt. Haguro<\/strong>, Mt. Gassan<\/strong>, and Mt. Yudono<\/strong>. The region is stunningly beautiful in all seasons, and merits return trips for those who want to absorb all the area has to offer. There\u2019s hiking along short and long trails, waystations for travelers, live-in monks along the way, personal guides if so desired, traditional structures like temples, shrines, and pagodas, and much more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Beauty
Walk the ancient, 2,446-step ascent up Mt. Haguro.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Renowned 17th-century Japanese poet Matsuo Bash\u014d<\/a>, who developed the unique poetic form \u201chaibun\u201d \u2014 a kind of travelogue poem interspersed with prose lines \u2014 loved the Dewa Sanzan area. When he was traveling through the Tsuruoka region, as he did all across Japan, he wrote extensively on the area\u2019s natural beauty, mystery, and spiritual heritage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
A yamabushi guide leads through the forest of Mt. Haguro.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

For intrepid nature lovers (and those who have time), there\u2019s even a 3-day, 2-night, 33 kilometers pathway through the Dewa Sanzan range called Rokuj\u016brigoe Kaid\u014d. It\u2019s been a key pilgrimage spot for 1,200 years \u2014 in 1733, in fact, records show that over 150,000 visitors undertook the trek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"A
Buddhist stelae are one of the many trail markings along Rokuj\u016brigoe Kaid\u014d. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The mountains are a regional hotspot for Shugendo, an extreme, ascetic that made the mountains their home after being founded in the 7th century by mystic and wanderer En no Gyoja (\u5f79\u884c\u8005, En no<\/em> Gy\u014dja). They were responsible not only for establishing the region\u2019s spiritual heritage, but its relationship to the natural environment through the cultivation of heirloom crops, also grown off-mountain for hundreds of years by local farmers, and the development of a Japanese \u201cvegetarian\u201d cuisine<\/a>, sh\u014djin ry\u014dri. There is another form of esoteric asceticism in the Dewa Sanzan called \u201csokushinbutsu,\u201d meaning \u201clive self-mummification.\u201d The practitioners who undertook this now-outlawed practice were different from the Yamabushi in Mt. Haguro. The self mummified monks belonged to the Shingon sect of Buddhism. Through a long and harsh training in Mt. Yudono, they believed it was possible to transition to an enlightened state in their own bodies before death.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mt. Haguro’s Five-Tier Pagoda and Ancient Cedar Tree<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Mt. Haguro, or the 414-meter tall \u201cBlack-winged Mountain,\u201d is where the pilgrims of the Dewa Sanzan converge during winter when there is too much snow on Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono to complete the pilgrimage. The Dewa Sanzan Shrine is at the mountain\u2018s top, where most of the Yamabushi rituals and ceremonies are held throughout the year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While Mt. Gassan represents the past, and Mt. Yudono the future, Mt. Haguro represents the present, and it is there that hikers and travelers can undertake the 2,446 stone step pilgrimage to the Japanese \u201ctorii\u201d gate at the top of the main trail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mt.
Mt. Haguro\u2019s five-storied pagoda and \u201cGrandpa Cedar\u201d<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The steps up Mt. Haguro take hikers through key locations, each one stationed to represent the path towards enlightenment practiced by regional Buddhist monks of the Shingon sect. After crossing the \u201cbridge of the gods\u201d at the base of the path, travelers can take in Mt. Haguro\u2019s five-storied pagoda, first built 1,000 years ago but then rebuilt 600 years ago after a fire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Yamabushi
Yamabushi disciplines on Mt. Haguro in winter.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The second station along the way up Mt. Haguro takes travelers to a small tea house called Ninosaka Chaya (open 8:30 am to 4:30 pm, May to November). There, visitors can have a small green tea and mochi break <\/strong>before taking another 30 minutes to reach the summit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The final station before the summit is a lodge for Shint\u014d pilgrims, Saikan. Once a Buddhist temple, it was converted in 1869 on order from the government. Travelers can stay over there if they\u2019d like<\/strong>, and on reservation, partake in a traditional sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri meal<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri refers to a simple, quality-focused cuisine of local heirloom foods and mountain-grown vegetables that was once eaten by monks. This cuisine was in harmony with their non-violence principles of not eating animal meat and to help them reach spiritual awakening by avoiding food with strong tastes and flavors. Now removed from that original purpose, sh\u014djin-ry\u014dri at Dewa Sanzan encompasses a cuisine that incorporates refined, time-honored food preparation methods to allow the pilgrims to purify their bodies as part of their religious practice. As a bonus, it contains no red or white meat by default but does contain fish stock. People who would like a completely vegetarian or even vegan meal can still enjoy this food and make requests to omit certain items when making a reservation (3-days in advance for completely vegan).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Man
The canopied paths of Rokuj\u016brigoe Kaid\u014d, a pathway through Dewa Sanzan<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s important to note that while the entire trek is doable for those who are physically able, and have the time, it still requires exertion and effort. Visitors should expect to take about 3 hours round-trip for the entire excursion<\/strong>. Yamabushi priest guides are available to escort travelers on their way and to provide explanations. For those who want a deeper dive into the region, and first-hand teaching from someone closely connected to the region\u2019s cultural heritage, this might be a good option.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Mountaintop Summit of Mt. Gassan<\/strong> <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Mt. Gassan is less of a deep forest hike and more of a grassy, mountaintop stroll full of astonishing vantage points and panoramic views. The dips and rises of its 2.5 hike to the summit are sure to provide picture-lovers with endless opportunities for beautiful, shareable shots. Along the way, travelers can take in more than 60 native flower species. For this reason, and because it is a National Park protected by the Ministry of the Environment, picking flowers or other plants along the way is strictly forbidden by law.<\/p>\n\n\n\n