{"id":87507,"date":"2021-12-15T17:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-12-15T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=87507"},"modified":"2024-11-25T22:17:26","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T13:17:26","slug":"samurai-history-culture-aizu-yonezawa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/samurai-history-culture-aizu-yonezawa\/","title":{"rendered":"Walking in the Footsteps of Samurai in Aizu and Yonezawa"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Venturing into the heartland of samurai history<\/a> and culture may be closer than you imagine. If you find yourself in Tokyo\u2019s Asakusa district, then you\u2019ve already taken one step back in time toward Japan\u2019s flourishing Edo period. From Asakusa station, there are easy train connections to the traditional samurai strongholds of Aizu (\u4f1a\u6d25) and Yonezawa (\u7c73\u6ca2).<\/p>\n\n\n\n We boarded the train in Tokyo and soon made our first samurai pit stop as we gazed at misty green mountains on the horizon towards Aizu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ouchi-juku<\/a><\/strong> (\u5927\u5185\u5bbf) is an Edo-period post town on the historical route between Nikko (\u65e5\u5149)<\/strong> and Aizu.<\/strong> The main street is lined with preserved houses whose thatched roofs recall the more famous Shirakawa-go<\/a> in Hida, but without the touristy crowds. Houses are still inhabited by residents, while ground floors have been converted into shopfronts selling souvenir crafts, local dishes, and sake, while a few even offer the possibility to stay overnight. We took a leisurely stroll along the central walkway to the end of the road and up the stairs to a hilltop that offers an intimate overview of the neighborhood just below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n On the road again to Aizu on a rainy autumn afternoon, we saw rainbows.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Founded in 1803, Nisshinkan<\/strong> (\u65e5\u65b0\u9928) was by far the largest comprehensive school for young sons of samurai during the Edo period<\/strong>. From the age of 10, students not only practiced martial arts such as jujutsu<\/em> (\u67d4\u8853, unarmed close combat), kenjutsu<\/em> (\u5263\u8853, sword-fighting), kyujutsu<\/em> (\u5f13\u8853, archery), and gunnery, they learned sciences, humanities, and medicine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In addition to fancy halls dedicated to Confucian-style study, the facility still contains Japan\u2019s oldest swimming pool (for training to cross rivers on horseback), an astronomy observatory, and an archery range where anyone can try their hand at shooting a few wooden arrows with a real bow. (I tried, and it wasn\u2019t easy; indeed, both patience and practice are duly required to hit the target!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nisshinkan\u2019s historical legacy includes the famously devoted Byakkotai<\/strong> (\u767d\u864e\u968a) troop of teenaged boys<\/strong> who, believing that Aizu had been seized upon witnessing Tsurugajo surrounded by flames during the pivotal Boshin war in March 1868, committed suicide on Mt. Iimoriyama rather than surrender to the enemy. If one of the boys, Iinuma Sadakichi, had not survived, we might never have known their story. I was moved to see individual portraits of the 19 boys in uniform exhibited inside Tsurugajo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Tsurugajo<\/a><\/strong> (\u9db4\u30f6\u57ce) is a castle originally built in the late 14th century, now a historical symbol of samurai culture in Aizu.<\/strong> Although the iconic white main tower is reconstructed, many of the stone walls remain, so we could see the clear contrast in building styles, from the ancient nozura-dumi<\/em> of sturdy piled stones to the Edo-period uchikomi-hagi<\/em> method of cutting stones to form harder-to-climb flat surfaces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The castle\u2019s iron-red tinted roof tiles are visible from the watchtower observatory, along with a peaceful view of the surrounding neighborhood and green mountains on the horizon. Inside, the museum exhibition includes reproductions of many paintings and woodcuts depicting key characters and moments in the history of samurai culture around Aizu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Later we headed off for a meal at the luxurious onsen resort hotel Ookawaso<\/a><\/strong> (\u5927\u5ddd\u8358), nestled in Aizu\u2019s lush hot spring valley. Its majestic lobby was a sight in itself, with wooden tables, lattices, balconies, stairs, and running water centered around an intimate square stage where traditional Japanese music is performed daily on the three-stringed shamisen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n We had the privilege of dining in a private tatami-floor room, which set the stage for a live samurai sword performance of Kengishu Kamui<\/a><\/strong> (\u5271\u4f0e\u8846\u304b\u3080\u3090) in front of a landscaped private garden. Kamui\u2019s spectacular show was both an<\/strong> entertaining display of kenjutsu<\/em> swordplay and an artful expression of samurai values<\/strong> such as loyalty, respect, and humility. Our lunch was an exquisite multi-course meal featuring fresh seafood, sukiyaki beef, and dainty desserts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Built on the site of Yonezawa\u2019s Matsugasaki castle ruins inside Matsugasaki Park, Uesugi Shrine<\/a> (\u4e0a\u6749\u795e\u793e) is a popular power spot, cherry blossom site, and the samurai centerpiece of present-day Yonezawa. The main shrine is dedicated to Uesugi Kenshin (\u4e0a\u6749\u8b19\u4fe1) as one of the most powerful warlords of the Warring States period. His martial influence runs deep, as even the main Maizurubashi bridge is decorated with flags bearing the kanji \u6bd8 (bi) and \u9f8d (dragon), representing the powerful Buddhist deities Bishamonten and Fudo Myoo, whom Uesugi Kenshin revered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Also on the grounds are statues and a separate shrine dedicated to Uesugi Yozan<\/strong> (\u4e0a\u6749\u9df9\u5c71), who became the feudal lord of Yonezawa at the age of 17 and went on to economically reform the Yonezawa domain through political innovation in democracy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n No doubt Uesugi Shrine has special meaning for Yonezawa residents<\/strong>, as during the course of our promenade we encountered a couple posing for wedding photographs, children wearing kimono for Shichi-Go-San (\u4e03\u4e94\u4e09, literally “Seven-Five-Three”) ceremonies, and friendly locals simply out for a walk with their dressed-up dogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Denkoku no Mori<\/a><\/strong> (\u4f1d\u56fd\u306e\u675c) comprises a museum and cultural facility dedicated to the history of the Uesugi clan and traditional performing arts<\/strong>, featuring a movable Noh stage in the lobby. I was particularly delighted to see that it is also hosting a concert by the excellent Aun J Classic Orchestra<\/a>, who play contemporary music using traditional Japanese instruments. Its art collection includes the Uesugi Rakuchu Rakugaizu Byobu<\/em>, a national treasure folding screen depicting Kyoto and the surrounding area around 450 years ago, which was gifted to Uesugi Kenshin by the famous samurai warrior Oda Nobunaga.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Located just across from Matsugasaki Park, the museum\u2019s outdoor plaza also hosts local festivals, taiko performances, and special appearances by the Yamagata “Ai” Samurai Troupe<\/strong> (recognizable by the \u201cai\u201d \u611b kanji decorating the helmet famously worn by the literary and wise samurai Naoe Kanetsugu<\/a>). That day, two men impersonating the samurai Naoe Kanetsugu (\u76f4\u6c5f \u517c\u7d9a) and Suibara Chikanori (\u6c34\u539f \u89aa\u61b2) guided us through a simple \u201cduel\u201d ritual as we learned to draw and maneuver the long swords.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThatched Roofs on the Road to Aizu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Aizu, Home to Japan\u2019s only Surviving Samurai School<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Yonezawa, Samurai Stronghold of the Uesugi Clan<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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