{"id":88486,"date":"2022-01-05T20:30:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-05T11:30:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=88486"},"modified":"2024-08-25T19:34:26","modified_gmt":"2024-08-25T10:34:26","slug":"historical-and-gastronomical-experience-in-okayama","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/historical-and-gastronomical-experience-in-okayama\/","title":{"rendered":"Historical and Gastronomical Experience in Okayama"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

With a distinct culture developed under the warmth of the Seto Inland climate, Okayama Prefecture (\u5ca1\u5c71\u770c)<\/strong> has a rich heritage born out of privileged farmlands and well-connected economic routes that made it one of the most important regions during the Edo period and well into the Meiji period. But its historical wonders are not limited to Okayama Castle<\/a> or Okayama Korakuen Garden<\/a>. As a history and architecture enthusiast, I was overjoyed to discover that more historical treasures awaited nearby.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ashimori, A Piece of Edo Era Frozen in Time<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Ashimori (\u8db3\u5b88) is an extraordinary district in the northwestern part of Okayama city (\u5ca1\u5c71\u5e02). It is home to the only samurai residence preserved in the entire prefecture, but that\u2019s only a small part of the picture: the whole district is actually an impressive compound of old historical buildings!<\/strong> Because of this, in 1990, Okayama Prefecture officially designated the district as \u201cAshimori Townscape Conservation Area\u201d due to its immense historical importance. Walking around the district, I felt glimpses of an olden times lifestyle while strolling to explore its local history.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"traditional<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Edo<\/figure>\n
Except for passing cars and power lines, Ashimori district is mostly kept preserved the way it looked during the Meiji period.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Timeless Natural Beauty in Omizuen<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

One of the most beautiful locations of Ashimori, Omizuen (\u8fd1\u6c34\u5712), is a garden that was designed following the style of artist and aristocrat Enshu Kobori, a prominent garden designer during the Azuchi-Momoyama period and beginnings of the Edo period. It\u2019s a beautiful spot to admire the fall colours that have held the prefectural designation of Place of Scenic Beauty since 1959<\/strong>. It used to be the garden of the Kinoshita clan, former lords of the Ashimori domain, and closely related to Toyotomi Hideyoshi<\/a>. The main highlight is the central pond with water flowing from the Ashimori River next to it, hence the garden\u2019s name, which means \u201cgarden close to the water.\u201d Two small islands, Tsurushima <\/em>(\u9db4\u5cf6, crane island) and Kameshima<\/em> (\u4e80\u5cf6, turtle island), symbolize the longevity of the feudal lord. Facing the pond, a house called Ginfukaku<\/em> (\u541f\u98a8\u95a3, palace of the singing wind) rounds up the composition of the scenery with its reflection in the water along with the bright red maple leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Traditional<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Omizuen<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Ginfukako<\/figure>\n
Facing the central pond is the Ginfukaku<\/em> (\u541f\u98a8\u95a3), a house built in 1708 by the local daimyo with remnants of materials from the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. A nice feature is that its room is open to the public and can be entered for free.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Old Ashimori Clan Samurai Residence<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Unlike most samurai houses that didn\u2019t survive the Meiji Era, the Old Ashimori Clan Samurai Residence (\u65e7\u8db3\u5b88\u85e9\u4f8d\u5c4b\u6577\u907a\u69cb) has been kept in such a good state that in 1959 was awarded the prefectural designation of Important Cultural Property. It was the former residence of the Sugihara family, retainers of the Ashimori clan, and its construction date is estimated to be around the mid-Edo period (1651-1745). But its faithful sample of the samurai lifestyle isn\u2019t the only reason for its cultural and historical value. Its architecture is a representative sample of the Buke-zukuri<\/em> style, which is widely regarded as the template for traditional Japanese-style civilian houses<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Old<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Old<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Old<\/figure>\n
Some of its most distinctive features are its white nagayamon<\/em> gate and earthen walls.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Old Merchant Residence of Fujita Senneji<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This house museum is a small treasure for culinary enthusiasts.<\/strong> The Old Merchant Residence of Fujita Senneji (\u65e7\u8db3\u5b88\u5546\u5bb6\u85e4\u7530\u5343\u5e74\u6cbb\u90b8) features old soy sauce barrels with antique tools and Meiji Era memorabilia. It\u2019s the legacy of Sennenji Fujita, a successful soy sauce producer whose family business, Senneji Shoten, had been established for generations since the Edo era until the war. This magnificent manor is the family\u2019s former residence as well as the business brewery. It dates from the late Edo period and was restored to the way it looked during the Meiji period as part of the conservation efforts. It serves now as a testament to old production techniques and a typical merchant\u2019s house architecture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Old
The architectural style of the roof, known as Irimoya<\/em> style, is typical for Japanese architecture<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The old Bicchu and Bizen Provinces that form Okayama Prefecture nowadays were part of the area known as Jushu Enden (\u5341\u5dde\u5869\u7530), meaning \u201csalt fields of the ten provinces.\u201d As an important soy fermentation ingredient for soy sauce production, it probably played a part in developing the economic activity for this product in this region, a historical mark we can still see today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Antique<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Antique<\/figure>\n
Food tradition and local history merge at the Old Residence of Fujita Senneji, a beautiful Meiji-era merchant house with exhibits that show the old manufacturing techniques<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A Merchant Residence of Bichu Ashimori Machinamikan<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Another old merchant house dating from the Edo Period, Bichu Ashimori Machinamikan (\u5099\u4e2d\u8db3\u5b88\u307e\u3061\u306a\u307f\u9928) has had a rather interesting evolution, as it was at some points used as a post office and a Koban (Japan\u2019s typical neighborhood mini police station) in its history. However, it eventually started to show decay signs, so with the district\u2019s designation as a conservation area, the building was renovated entirely, reproducing its original look. Nowadays, it functions as a tourism information center aided by volunteers <\/strong>and a small local history museum.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"interior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Bichu<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"traditional<\/figure>\n
Antique photos and local history share space with clever traditional house Japanese designs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cultural Rental Spaces and Kaiseki Meals at Ashimori Plaza and Kouan Chaya<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Ashimori Plaza (\u8db3\u5b88\u30d7\u30e9\u30b6) is not a historical building, but it\u2019s made to look consistent with the surrounding aesthetics in the central area of the district. It is a very interesting place for community life. It has spaces that can be rented for cultural activities such as exhibitions or concerts, a facility and shop for pottery or wood crafting experiences, and touristic information.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Ashimori
Ashimori Plaza is an important cultural spot for community activities. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Inside Ashimori Plaza, there\u2019s also a restaurant, Kouan Chaya (\u6d2a\u5eb5\u8336\u5c4b), which is an excellent spot for Okayama specialties with local ingredients. The lunch menu includes a kaiseki-style menu<\/a> with seasonal offerings served in a large bamboo basket and a generous piece of Ashimori cantaloupe melon as a dessert. Visitors will probably not have enough of this delicious melon, so it\u2019s highly encouraged to get a refreshing melon juice, 100% fruity goodness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Japanese
Kouan Chaya\u2019s popular delicious Four Seasons lunch set<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Melon
Ashimori melon juice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
  <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Traditional Japanese Confectionery and Tea Ceremony in Urashima Honpo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Back in the central area of Okayama city, there\u2019s a traditional Japanese confectionery sweets shop called Urashima Honpo (\u6d66\u5fd7\u6e80\u672c\u8217), a family business with a history of over 80 years<\/strong> and several locations in Okayama city. At the main store close to Kitanagase station, visitors have the chance to enjoy the variety of sweets but also a hands-on experience on how to create their own namagashi<\/a> <\/em>(\u751f\u83d3\u5b50), one of the most typical confections that usually accompany matcha tea ceremonies. They\u2019re usually characterized by cute and elaborate designs showing the patissiers\u2019 skill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Japanese<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Japanese<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Japanese<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Japanese<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Carnation<\/figure>\n
Namagashi<\/em> is usually served alongside matcha green tea during a tea ceremony. A variety of very specialized tools are required to achieve certain shapes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This time, I learned with Kosuke Miyake how to make namagashi<\/em> in the shape of two special flowers: a chrysanthemum and a carnation. A very sweet and thoughtful choice from Miyake-san since he knew I\u2019m from Spain, and so he wanted to represent both of our countries\u2019 national flowers. Miyake-san\u2019s swift but delicate movements make the process seem easier than it actually is, and it\u2019s a pleasure to see him bringing to life such a pretty design. After making the sweets, the experience was completed with learning how to carry out a tea ceremony, closing with a high note of the contemplative beauty of the moment, and enjoying the complementary flavors of the sweets and the bitter matcha. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Tea<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Tea<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Tea<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Tea<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Tea<\/figure>\n
The tea ceremony\u2019s precise and repeated ritualized motions convey the importance of appreciating the ephemeral beauty of the here and now. The order and position of each component aren\u2019t left to chance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Getting to Ashimori and Urashima Honpo<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Ashimori Townscape Conservation area is about 30 minutes from Okayama station by car. The closest train station is Ashimori Station on the Kibi Line, but then it takes between 50 minutes to 1 hour on foot, so it may be advisable to call a taxi<\/a> to pick you up in front of the station. Visitors can freely walk around the premises, but most locations are open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 to 16:30, except for the day after national holidays. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Urashima Honpo is just 15 minutes away from Okayama Station by car, takes 5 minutes by train to Kitanagase station on the San-yo Line, and then 6 minutes on foot. It\u2019s open every day from 9:00 to 19:00.<\/p>\n\n\n\n