The architecture of Sarutahiko Shrine is slightly more colourful than Geku and Naiku.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nI noticed a real educational will of the sanctuary, which strives to initiate visitors to observe good manners in such a sacred place. For example, the English brochure briefly explained how to pay your respects to the kami (Shinto deities) or why you purify your hands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The shrine is dedicated to Sarutahiko, the deity of guidance. It is said to be held by direct descendants of Sarutahiko since its inception.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nThe rice field used during the rice planting ceremony<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nTasting Ise-Udon in the Pedestrian Streets<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Leaving Sarutahiko Shrine, I returned to the Oharai-Machi shopping street a minute away. The shops lined with traditional wooden fronts made me feel like I had travelled back in time in this picturesque landscape. If we continued down the street until the end, we would arrive at the Naiku shrine. But before that, I wanted to take a lunch break and try a local speciality. Since one of the nicknames of the region is the gourmet’s paradise<\/em>, there is no shortage of specialities! But for an udon lover like me, one of my greatest pleasures is to taste the udon speciality of each new Japanese region.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\nThe lucky Maneki-neko waiting for you at the intersection of oharai-machi and okage-yokocho<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe restaurant Fukusuke’s terrace (Ise-udon)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOharai-machi and its smoked wood houses<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAs simple as delicious: Ise tsukimi<\/em> udon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSo I turned right to take on Okage-Yokocho street, where a stone Maneki Neko showed me the way to go. In this street, equally pretty, it is where the Fukusuke restaurant (Ise-udon) is located. The establishment offers dozens of recipes, but I ordered a classic: tsukimi-udon\u00a0\u2014 a raw egg on top of hot, just-drained noodles, bathed in katsuo-bushi (dried bonito shavings) broth, and sprinkled with fresh green onions. Ise udon is known for its unique texture, thick but melting in the mouth, and not too firm. They are covered in a dark, syrupy broth. I was expecting a robust and salty taste, but instead, it was mild and very fragrant. At Fukusuke’s, the broth is homemade and is extremely popular! A word of advice, go a little earlier to avoid the long queues (though rest assured, the udon is well worth it!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Naiku Shrine<\/h2>\n\n\n\n Walking back through Oharai-Machi heading south, I arrived at the Ise Jingu Naiku shrine entrance, also called the Kotaijingu. The colossal torii that stands at the entrance frames the sunrise. This shrine was built in honour of the sun goddess Amaterasu. This deity is considered the ancestor of all successive Japanese emperors. She was originally enshrined in the imperial palace. In the late 1st century B.C., during the reign of the 11th emperor Suinin, she is said to have appeared to Princess Yamatohime-no-mikoto, who had been searching for the most appropriate place to dedicate to her, and told the princess that Ise should be that place. Since then, the Kotaijingu has been consecrated to her there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is the most important and sacred place in the entire Ise Jingu complex. We enter the park by crossing the Uji Bridge, which marks the boundary of the holy area. Just as in Geku earlier, one passes numerous torii gates that stand alongside the tops of giant trees. But within the Naiku, everything seemed even more prominent, even more impressive. Here, the main pavilion is protected by four rows of walls, and only the imperial family and priests are allowed in. Walking through the forest, you will see its golden roof between the trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Uji Bridge crosses the Isuzu River and symbolises the passage between our world and the sacred world<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nYou can go in front of the enclosure that hides the pavilion to pay respects to the goddess. Also, like most large shrines, both Geku and Naiku have a kaguraden<\/em>. You may have already noticed this building in a completely different architectural style, where you can buy lucky amulets. Here, pilgrims can make kagura offerings, rituals of song and dance, to pass on their prayers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\nOne of many torii on the path<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nKaguraden<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nStairs to the main pavilion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nWhere to Stay on Ago Bay<\/h2>\n\n\n\n To spend the night in the Ise-Shima area, I was recommended this hotel on Ago Bay (\u82f1\u865e\u6e7e, Agowan): the Shima Kanko Hotel – The Classic<\/strong>. It is located on Kashikojima, one of the many islets in Ago Bay, south-east of Ise Jingu. Pearl farming thrives in the bay.<\/p>\n\n\n\nIt provides all the comforts of a 4-star hotel in the middle of the magnificent landscapes of the Ise-Shima national park. The hotel opened in 1951 and is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. In 2016, the hotel attracted worldwide attention when it hosted the Ise-Shima G7 summit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As I arrived late afternoon, I asked the staff where the best place to watch the sunset was. They told me to go to the guest lounge on the second floor. They also offered to take me to the rooftop garden of a nearby building that can be reached by car: the Shima Kanko Hotel – The Bay Suites<\/strong>. But as it was getting dark very quickly, I thought it would be wiser to stay in the lounge and enjoy the last rays of the sun. So I savoured this magical moment on the terrace, looking out over the islands and pearl oyster beds bathed in pink light.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe lounge’s bar has a buffet of hors d’oeuvres open until 22:00. There is also a library. For dinner, you can choose to book a table at La Mer<\/em>, which, as the name suggests, offers local fish and seafood specialities cooked in the French style. Or else you can sit down at the Yamabuki teppanyaki restaurant, where the chef prepares the freshly caught seafood by cooking them in front of you.<\/p>\n\n\n\nView of Ago Bay from the hotel’s second-floor terrace, just before the sun disappears.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\nNice view from the hotel room, renovated in 2016. Photographs: Shima Kanko Hotel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nUseful Information<\/h2>\n\n\n\n You can get to Ise from Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya by taking a Kintetsu line train to Iseshi station. It takes about 2 hours by train from Osaka and Kyoto, and 1 hour 20 minutes from Nagoya.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ise Jingu Geku<\/h3>\n\n\n\n Open to the public daily for free from 5:00 am to 6:00 pm from January to April and in September, from 5:00 am to 7:00 pm from May to August, and from 5:00 am to 5:00 pm from October to December. The nearest train stations are Ujiyamada and Ise-shi stations<\/strong>.\u00a0The Kintetsu Line serves Ujiyamada Station, and Ise-shi Station is operated by the Kintetsu Line and the JR Sangu Line.\u00a0By car,<\/strong> you can park in the temple’s free parking lot.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSarutahiko-jinja<\/h3>\n\n\n\n Open to the public every day for free. Opening hours vary according to the season. The nearest train stations are Ujiyamada and Ise-shi stations<\/strong>. The Kintetsu Line serves Ujiyamada Station, and Ise-shi Station is served by the Kintetsu Line and JR Sangu Line. By car<\/strong>, you can park in the temple’s free car park.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFukusuke (Ise-udon)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n Opening hours vary according to the season.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ise Jingu Naiku<\/h3>\n\n\n\n Open to the public daily for free from 5:00 am to 6:00 pm from January to April and September, from 5:00 am to 7:00 pm from May to August, and from 5:00 am to 5:00 pm from October to December. Accessible from Sarutahiko Shrine on foot in 20 minutes and through the pedestrian shopping streets, 10 minutes from Fukusuke Restaurant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n