{"id":88662,"date":"2022-01-27T17:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-27T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=88662"},"modified":"2024-11-25T22:07:40","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T13:07:40","slug":"kumano-iseji-road-kumano-pilgrimage-shintoism","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/kumano-iseji-road-kumano-pilgrimage-shintoism\/","title":{"rendered":"Kumano Kodo: Iseji, a Pilgrimage Route to the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Kumano Kodo is a network of thousand-year-old roads<\/a> that pilgrims use to travel from various parts of Japan to visit Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama Prefecture, three of the most sacred shrines<\/strong> (Kumano Hayatama Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hongu Taisha). These roads and the sacred places they connect have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 2004.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Iseji Road<\/strong>, which runs through Mie Prefecture, is a 170km, two-week walk from the Ise Grand Shrine<\/a> to the Kumano Sanzan Shrines. It passes through deep forests and beaches with sacred rocks along the Pacific Ocean, the beauty of which reminds us that in Shintoism, the gods reside in all elements of nature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you don’t have enough time to embark on a two-week walk, don’t worry! I’ll take you to the most striking places in Iseji that can be reached within a day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I suggest you start with a short hike over the Matsumoto-toge pass (\u677e\u672c\u5ce0\u9053). There are two possible routes: across the pass to Kumanoshi town to the south or down east to the lava coast of Onigajo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It takes about ten minutes to get to the path from Odomari station. As soon as you start walking, you will enter deep into the forest. The roots of the giant cedars intertwine with the stones paving the path. The road was paved during the Edo period as more and more pilgrims came to walk the paths leading to the summit. Further on, the landscape changes, and the vegetation becomes more diverse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After 40 minutes, you come to a small shrine in a bamboo forest. Here, you can choose to continue straight to Kumano or take the path to the ruins of Onigajo Castle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Even if you choose the former, I recommend that you follow the road to the ruins for even a few minutes. You will come to a hut with a great view of Shichirimihama beach. You can then retrace your steps and continue towards Kumano. It takes about 50 minutes to walk through the forest. Once out of the woods, it is another 40 minutes to Kumanoshi station, passing a few souvenir shops and restaurants on the way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I continued on the road towards the ruins of Onigajo, about a half-hour walk. Once at the top, I could enjoy several viewpoints on the coast. To the east, one overlooks a garden planted with cherry trees down to a lava cave and bearing the same name as the castle. I walked through it to get back down, but since I was travelling in autumn, the branches of the cherry trees were already bare. I imagined how beautiful the view must have been through the flowering trees in spring!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The rock formations on the coast here result from lava flows that formed over a kilometre long, 14 million years ago. Over time, as the ground rose, they appeared on the surface in breathtaking shapes. It is a collection of natural works of art, and if you look at them, it is easy to understand why people of old times saw divine apparitions in these places. The Onigajo Cave<\/strong> (\u9b3c\u30f6\u57ce) is one of these many works of art. The name comes from a legend about a dangerous pirate who made this cave his hideout. With the help of the goddess Kannon herself, the shogun Sakanoue no Tamuramaro reached the cave and fought the pirate, who released 800 oni<\/em> demons from the cliffs, which the shogun’s arrows defeated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The name Onigajo means the castle of the ogre (or demon), which was also given to the castle above the Matsumoto-toge pass.<\/p>\n\n\n You will pass the Onigajo Centre, which is primarily a restaurant, before walking down to a cave formed under the cliff from the car park. The path runs along with the rock formation and into a rock passage, which appears to have been built by human hands. We also passed several other rocks, among which are sacred rocks. One of them has an astonishing shape, reminiscent of Totoro! You can walk freely in the cave, which is not very deep and opens onto a large expanse of rocks that form a sort of raised beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A little further down the coast, about ten minutes by bus, is another breathtakingly shaped rock: Shishi-iwa (\u7345\u5b50\u5ca9), which literally translates as “lion rock.” You must have seen these legendary lions with curly manes guarding the entrance to some shrines. The Shishi-iwa looks like one of these creatures with its open mouth. Like the Onigajo cave, this rock was formed under the sea before it appeared on the surface. Sitting on the beach, facing the sea, the lion seems to be the guardian of this place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It takes no more than a 10-minute walk to get to the Hananoiwaya Shrine (\u82b1\u306e\u7a9f\u795e\u793e) from the Shishi-iwa. I particularly like visiting this type of shrine: ancient, sober, which imbues you with the original philosophy of Shintoism. This one is built around a huge rock that houses the deity Izanami no Mikoto.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
Matsumoto-Toge Pass<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOnigajo Cave<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Shishi-iwa Lion Rock<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Hananoiwaya Shrine<\/h2>\n\n\n\n