{"id":89856,"date":"2022-01-20T19:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-20T10:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=89856"},"modified":"2024-02-27T14:39:14","modified_gmt":"2024-02-27T05:39:14","slug":"hiking-in-japan-nakatsugawa-historic-nakasendo-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/hiking-in-japan-nakatsugawa-historic-nakasendo-trail\/","title":{"rendered":"Go Hiking in Nakatsugawa on the Historic Nakasendo Trail"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The Nakasendo Trail <\/strong>(\u4e2d\u5c71\u9053) is one of the five former “Gokaido” (\u4e94\u8857\u9053) routes in Japan used during the Edo period (1603-1868). Frequently used by feudal lords, this 535-kilometer road connecting Kyoto to Tokyo (then called Edo) is also known as the “Samurai Road.” It has 69 stops (\u5bbf\u5834, shukuba<\/em>) including Magome (\u99ac\u7c60), Tsumago (\u59bb\u7c60) and Nakatsugawa<\/strong> (\u4e2d\u6d25\u5ddd). From hiking, history, crafts, and beautiful scenery, there’s much to discover of Nakatsugawa’s treasures with its authentic Edo atmosphere<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Welcome<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Hiking from Nakatsugawa to Tsumago, in the footsteps of the samurai<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The hike between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku (9 km) is very popular. But for most adventurous travelers, it is possible to extend the trip by starting from Nakatsugawa-juku (about 17 km).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Start your Tour at Nakatsugawa-juku<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

We started our tour of Nakatsugawa (\u4e2d\u6d25\u5ddd\u5bbf) from Waki Honjin <\/strong>(\u8107\u672c\u9663\u8de1), a building that once served as a substitute residence for feudal lords and high-ranking people when there was no more room in the main residence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Waki<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Waki<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"fall<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Welcome<\/figure>\n
Nakatsugawa-juku Waki Honjin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then, as we walked through the alleys of Nakatsugawa-juku, we discovered stores and the many historical buildings with traditional architecture<\/strong> that date back to over 400 years old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Traditional
Hazama sake brewery in Nakatsugawa-juku<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Architecture lovers will be happy to discover two types of traditional buildings that coexist in Nakatsugawa: wooden buildings, and namako <\/em>walls<\/a> (“sea cucumber wall”) made of diagonal tiles, designed to prevent fires.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Wooden
Wooden wall with rustic charm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"namako
Namako<\/em> (“sea cucumber”) wall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"two<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Owning such a residence was once reserved for the wealthy. If you look up, you will see an udatsu <\/em>firewall (dragon tail roof), a sign of wealth, or oni gawara <\/em>(protective monsters) both meant to keep fires away and attract good luck under its roof.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"oni
Protective monster <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Udatsu
Udatsu<\/em>, dragon tail roof<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Following the road with two-colored stones showing the way to the Nakasendo, we slowly moved away from civilization to enter the forest. All you have to do after passing the Asahigaoka Fushimi shrine<\/strong> is to be gently lulled by the calm of nature. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Nakasendo
Nakasendo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Wooden<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Asahigaoka
Torii gates of Asahigaoka Fushimi Shrine<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Two-colored
Markers on the ground showing the way to Nakasendo road<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ochiai-juku, the 44th post station <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This sunny day was nice to enjoy the rice fields, waterfalls, and rural houses we passed on the road, overlooked by Mount Ena<\/strong> (\u6075\u90a3\u5c71, 2191 meters).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Japanese<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Cute<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Mount
Beautiful view of Mount Ena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Then comes the Ochiai paved path <\/strong>which covers 840 meters. Specific to the Nakasendo, its 70 meters of original stones are on the list of national historic sites. The area next to the paved path, mosses, bamboo forests, and waterfalls create a magical atmosphere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"hike<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Ochiai
Ochiai paved path <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Mosses<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Waterfalls<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Amazing<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Here we are in Ochiai-juku<\/strong> (\u843d\u5408\u5bbf), the 44th stop on the Nakasendo, where Ochiai-juku Honjin<\/strong> (\u843d\u5408\u5bbf\u672c\u9663), the last residence in Gifu Prefecture<\/a> reserved for feudal lords is located. Its buildings, gate, and garden are original and open to the public every Sunday.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"traditional<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Although Nakatsugawa and Ochiai are less popular than Tsumago and Magome, this part of the hike was my favorite because you can enjoy beautiful landscapes and exceptional scenery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Magome-juku, the 43rd stop of the Nakasendo<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Magome (\u99ac\u7c60\u5bbf) is the 43rd stop of the Nakasendo. The area is very suitable for rice production, so there are many rice fields, which are very important for the locals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Photogenic<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Rice
Kanji of the rice field written in the stone<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Magome<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Magome is famous for its streets lined with traditional houses, which give the impression of walking in a movie set<\/strong>. The reconstruction of Magome after a fire in 1895 is now an open-air museum, nowadays appreciated by photographers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The
A landscape worthy of the most beautiful postcards<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Magome,<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Colorful<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Magome
Magome-juku<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Be aware that despite this postcard atmosphere, the various buildings and residences of Magome are still occupied. People live there peacefully, like in a temporal enclave taking its inhabitants back 400 years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Traditional<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Along its slopes and waterways, Magome has a timeless landscape and includes many shops, residences, cafes, and restaurants to enjoy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Beware<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Peaceful<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Cute<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Also, don’t miss Jimba, Magome’s observation point <\/strong>offering a panoramic view of Mount Ena, once used to spot enemies. There I was struck by the beauty of the Kiso Valley, while myself and three grannies quietly contemplated this breathtaking view.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Great
Magome from its observation point<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Jimba,
Mount Ena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Mount
Kiso Valley<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"3<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tsumago-juku, the 42nd stop of the Nakasendo <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The 9-kilometer hike<\/strong> (about 3 hours) from Magome to Tsumago<\/strong> (\u59bb\u7c60\u5bbf) is the most popular. On your way, you will pass a few bear bells, but don’t worry: locals haven’t seen any in the area for years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Beware<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

On the road, I was pleasantly surprised to discover a forest a bit wilder than between Nakatsugawa and Magome. You can meet wild animals like deers, wild boars or monkeys there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Deep<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Our
Our guide Ukisu-san hiding<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Nakasendo
Zigzag roads were once thought to slow down enemies<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Welcome to Tsumago<\/strong>, the 42nd stop of the Nakasendo<\/a>. Unlike Magome, the village was spared by the flames and remains authentic. Electric cables are buried and cars are forbidden to enter<\/strong>. Everything is made to keep the atmosphere of the Edo period intact and less touristic than in Magome.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Welcome
Tsumago, the best-preserved village in the Kiso Valley<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Many minshuku <\/em>and ryokan<\/em> are located in the village, allowing travelers to take a break in their journey. You will also find some stores and restaurants, but be aware that the sun sets early in Kiso Valley, and most of the shops close around 4:00 pm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Tsumago,<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Tsumago<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Next<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Tsumago<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n
\"Teru
Teru teru bozu <\/em>to keep the rain away<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Cute<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dry<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What Else to Do in Nakatsugawa and Surrounding Area<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Most of the time, tourists stay only one day in Tsumago and Magome and go home directly in the evening. However, the region has many sites not to be missed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Naegi Castle Ruins<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Overlooking the valley, the walls of Naegi Castle<\/strong> (\u82d7\u6728\u57ce\u8de1) is the unique distinction of being red<\/strong>, not white like most other Japanese castles. Legend says that the walls, originally white, were painted red to calm the anger of a dragon that hated white. Dismantled in 1871, its ruins will captivate history lovers<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Naegi<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Naegi<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Great
View from the Naegi castle ruins<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Naegi<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Naegi<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The ji-kabuki scene of Meiji-za<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Meiji-za Theater houses a stage for ji-kabuki, a popular form of traditional kabuki drama. The locals have preserved the theater for 120 years.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Meiji-za<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Welcome<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Meiji-za<\/figure>\n
The ji-kabuki theater of Meiji-za. Photographs: L\u00e9o<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

For this purpose, Itahegi (\u677f\u3078\u304e) is still practiced. This traditional technique of making wooden shakes almost disappeared but is now passed on to future generations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Meiji-za<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Itahegi<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Best Things to Eat in Nakatsugawa<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The local gastronomy is not forgotten in Nakatsugawa, and the area provides delicious dishes that will delight food lovers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kurikinton, A Local Chestnut Speciality<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

During fall, kurikinton <\/strong>(\u6817\u304d\u3093\u3068\u3093), delicious chestnut sweets<\/strong>, are a big hit. There are different kinds, and each store has its own recipe. It is even possible to take some home to offer to your friends and family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Kurikinton,<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Kawakamiya
Kawakamiya store in Nakatsugawa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Kawakamiya
Kawakamiya store in Magome<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

San-mon-mochi and gohei-mochi<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

San-mon-mochi<\/em><\/strong> (\u4e09\u6587\u9905) is a traditional cake made of rice paste and brown sugar <\/strong>you can try at Echizenya cafe, a store in a 200-year-old traditional house on the road between Nakatsugawa-juku and Ochiai-juku. Its taste is not too sweet and is absolutely delicious.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Echizenya,
Echizenya Cafe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Echizenya\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Welcome<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Echizenya,<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"San-mon-mochi,
San-mon-mochi <\/em>at Echizenya<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Gohei-mochi<\/em><\/strong> (\u4e94\u5e73\u9905) is a mochi stick covered with sweet and sour miso<\/strong> and is a tasty snack that you can enjoy during your visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Gohei-mochi
Gohei-mochi in Magome<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Gohei-mochi
Gohei-mochi in Tsumago<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hoshigaki: delicious dried persimmons<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Persimmons are everywhere in the area, and many locals dry them in front of their homes. These dried persimmons, called hoshigaki (\u5e72\u3057\u67ff), have a delightful taste, and they are very photogenic besides being delicious!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Hoshigaki:<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"dried<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dried<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Hoshigaki<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Hoshigaki<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

How to Get to Nakatsugawa<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The easiest way to get to Nakatsugawa is first to go to Nagoya. It takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes from Tokyo and 35 minutes from Kyoto by Shinkansen express train.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then, it takes 50 minutes by JR limited express Shinano train between Nagoya and Nakatsugawa<\/strong>. The Japan Rail Pass covers these trips.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Nakatsugawa
Access map to Nakatsugawa that you can find on Nakatsugawa city’s website<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n