{"id":90268,"date":"2022-01-31T16:47:00","date_gmt":"2022-01-31T07:47:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/?p=90268"},"modified":"2024-02-27T14:39:26","modified_gmt":"2024-02-27T05:39:26","slug":"izumi-great-winter-gateway-for-birdwatching-japan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/voyapon.com\/izumi-great-winter-gateway-for-birdwatching-japan\/","title":{"rendered":"Izumi: A great winter gateway for birding and Japanese culture enthusiasts"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

I\u2019m in Kyushu, the third largest and the southernmost of Japan\u2019s four main islands, drawn, by an extraordinary annual natural event, to a rather off-the-beaten-path destination, but with my eyes wide open for other experiences. More particularly, I am in Kagoshima Prefecture, the southernmost of the island\u2019s seven prefectures. Coming from my home in boreal Hokkaido, Japan\u2019s northern island, Kagoshima seems positively lush, almost sub-tropical. Palm trees, cycads, and camellias in bloom all greet me just outside Kagoshima Airport. During my first journey by bus, I pass fields with lines of neatly shaped tea bushes, and see citrus trees and persimmon trees laden with fruit \u2014 a very far cry from the snow and ice coating leafless deciduous trees and evergreen conifers in east Hokkaido!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kyushu literally means nine provinces. So, given that today the island is divided into just seven prefectures there is clearly a lengthy history for me to investigate, but that is a topic for another day.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As my bus winds its way north-westwards towards my destination, the city of Izumi, and as I ponder on the mysterious mismatch between seven prefectures and nine provinces, I cannot help but remember my first journeys this way. Then, almost 40 years ago, I was an impoverished post-grad and had travelled by ferry and by hitch-hiking through what was to me a completely unfamiliar landscape of narrow valleys with tiny rice fields and steep hillsides clad in forest, bamboo and forestry plantation. That was back in February and December 1982, when I was filled with a young man\u2019s aspirations. Now, it is winter 2021 and I find myself, decades later, here again in a now more familiar landscape, but seeing it all afresh and learning more about Izumi than I thought possible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Hooded Crane flocks fill the sky. Photography by Mark Brazil<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Izumi, for the uninitiated, is a birding Mecca. Birdwatcher\u2019s from around the world make winter pilgrimages to this area of Kyushu, drawn by one of the largest gatherings of birds in Japan \u2014 the wintering hordes of Hooded Crane and White-naped Crane<\/strong>. Yet, as I was to learn, there is so much more to Izumi than just the cranes \u2014 from samurai history to Shinto shrines, from farmer\u2019s markets to fine dining, from highly decorative drain covers to citrus farms \u2014 that it is well worth spending an extra day or two to discover aspects of the city and its local culture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Izumi: A Renowned Place for Observing Japan\u2019s Cranes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Since the 17th<\/sup> century, and until the mid 20th<\/sup> century, land has been reclaimed generation-by-generation from the southern part of Izumi Bay, creating enormous areas of low-lying fertile farmland, much of which today produces rice and vegetables. The observant may even notice remnants of the old sea walls. In winter, the fallow fields are home to one of the most spectacular wildlife sights you can hope for in Japan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
The view from Mt T\u014dk\u014d looking across the Izumi Plain with the white, crane museum building prominent to the left. Photography by Mark Brazil<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Literally, thousands of stately cranes of up to five species gather here to feed and sleep in safety during the winter months. They remain until the lengthening days in late winter and early spring urge them to migrate back north to their breeding territories in northeast Asia. Their annual journey from Russia via northeast China and the Korean Peninsula is no easy feat. In autumn, the young cranes fly south with their parents to Kyushu, learning the route and the safe places to rest and forage along the way. They have one more chance to cement that learning during the family\u2019s spring northbound migration. Thereafter, they must find their own way in the world, find their own partner, raise their own families, and teach their own young the way. Each winter watchers in Kyushu await their return, counting the families that have succeeded. This winter I am, again, one of those watchers drawn to Izumi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Hooded Cranes, with a few White-naped Cranes, gather to feed each morning. Photography by Mark Brazil<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Arasaki<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Known to birdwatchers worldwide as Arasaki, the reclaimed land west of the broad Iwashita River, where the Takaono and Noda rivers merge, is the first place to head. There, the Crane Observation Centre<\/strong>, which is a mere eight kilometres or so from Izumi Station, overlooks the fields of Arasaki that play host to the larger part of the crane gathering. On a dark December morning, cool but without wind, I climb the steps outside the centre to reach the rooftop. The rooftop viewing deck above the surrounding farmland provides the very best vantage point from which to watch the cranes in the early morning.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n