Known for being an onsen <\/em>paradise, Ibusuki<\/strong> (\u6307\u5bbf) is one of the most popular seaside resorts in Kagoshima Prefecture<\/a> (\u9e7f\u5150\u5cf6\u770c). It is located on the coast in Kyushu, at the southern edge of the Satsuma Peninsula. Not far from there, Mount Kaimondake (\u958b\u805e\u5cb3), nicknamed “Satsuma-Fuji” because of its likeness to the famous Mount Fuji, watches over the city. Famous for its black sand baths with health benefits, it also is has a wealth of culinary goodness, from seafood to summer sweets. Come with me far from the cold for a sunny vacation in Ibusuki!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
On this sunny day, we hurry so as not to miss our first event of the day: to watch the train pass by Nishi-Oyama station <\/strong>(\u897f\u5927\u5c71). This small station is a mujin-eki <\/em>(\u7121\u4eba\u99c5), a station without staff or a ticket office. This one opened in 1960, and is still in use, overseeing the daily traffic of about 15 trains.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When we arrived, some other people were waiting patiently for the train to pass in order to take a souvenir picture. The reason behind this local attraction? It is actually the southernmost JR station in Japan<\/strong>, which is the pride of the area. Especially since it offers a breathtaking view of Mount Kaimondake, one of the 100 most famous mountains in Japan<\/strong>. When the train arrives, the view is just like a postcard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In front of the station stands another unusual attraction: a yellow mailbox! Although not extraordinary for many other countries, in Japan, mailboxes are normally red. This one is painted yellow in reference to the rapeseed flowers that bloom here at the beginning of the year. Generally speaking, yellow is the color of happiness for the Japanese. So this mailbox is famous to bring luck to items mailed from it. This one is still in use so it is possible to mail your letters to your loved ones.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you want to write to your loved ones, you will find stamps and postcards inside the store, as well as goodies featuring the station: magnets, figures, and even station tickets (not usable on the train). Enough to put a little color (and happiness) in your suitcase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the end of the day, we headed to Cape Nagasakibana<\/strong> (\u9577\u5d0e\u9f3b), the southernmost point of the Satsuma Peninsula<\/strong>. Located on the coastline, it offers a breathtaking view of the East China Sea with its 11-meters high lighthouse, its stunning view of Mount Kaimondake, and its heart-shaped monument.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is a famous meeting place for couples, and its romantic atmosphere attracts many visitors. During our visit, we had the chance to enjoy a clear sky and watch the sunset behind Mount Kaimondake. A colorful oasis that I will never forget!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This cape is also related to the story of Urashima Taro<\/a><\/strong>, the hero of the oldest Japanese folk legend: the Ryugu legend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Cape Nagasakibana is the origin of several stories from Urashima Taro’s legend, so it is not surprising to find a statue of him and the turtle that took him on his legendary journey there. It is said that if you walk around the statue twice (to the left for men and to the right for women), you will meet your soulmate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
At Ryugu Shrine, you can get an unusual ema<\/em>. These wish plaques are usually made of wood, but here you can write your wish on a seashell. Once written, put it among the other shells and hope that your wish will be heard by Otohime, the divinity of the shrine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Once the night fell, I went to Ibusuki Hakusuikan<\/a>, a 4-star ryokan<\/em> where I was going to try an activity specific to Ibusuki: the hot sand baths.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Called sunaburo <\/em>(\u7802\u98a8\u5442) or sunamushi <\/em>(\u7802\u3080\u3057), these are black sand baths reaching 50\u00b0C, famous for their healing properties<\/strong>. The experience involves being buried under the sand naturally heated by the volcanic hot springs of the area. It’s an unusual spa treatment very popular with the Japanese. Sunaburo <\/em>baths can be found in other parts of Kyushu, but Ibusuki is the only place in the world to offer this kind of activity for more than three centuries!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Hot sand baths contain sodium chloride which helps blood circulation and calms nerve damage. They are particularly recommended for soothing joint and breathing disorders. Their detoxing properties are particularly appreciated by women because they have the particularity of beautifying the skin. However, they are not recommended for pregnant women and people with heart problems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
You start by putting on a yukata<\/em> before lying down on the sand where the staff will cover you from neck to feet. Although I’m not claustrophobic, the first few minutes were difficult: I felt like a sweet potato as I was being buried. The weight of the sand felt heavy on my body and I could feel my heart rate rising. The staff was very attentive and suggested I move a bit. Once I did that, I was able to find a good balance and started to relax. The experience lasts between 10 and 15 minutes. Despite the surprise effect at the beginning, time flies without even realizing it! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Once the 15 minutes are over, take a well-deserved shower before relaxing in the onsen<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Genroku bath of Hakusuikan was a great surprise! The place is huge, like the bathhouse of the Studio Ghibli animated film, Spirited Away<\/em>. It is a reproduction of traditional baths of the Genroku era <\/strong>(1688-1703), a real thermal paradise with whirlpools, sauna, and outdoor onsen<\/em>. This experience allowed me to better understand the famous “onsen <\/em>culture” that the Japanese are so crazy about.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The dinner was just as magical. I had the chance to taste a kaiseki <\/em>meal made from many small, seasonal dishes<\/strong>: Japanese gastronomy in its purest form! It is a cuisine based not only on taste but also on the harmony of shapes, textures, and colors. It is a true art and only a few great restaurants know how to prepare it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It would be difficult to tell you about each of the 13 dishes. However, some dishes surprised me more than others, starting with the sea bream sashimi covered with gold leaf<\/strong>. So elegant! Although the gold has no particular taste, it brings a unique elegance. I was able to discover some local dishes, such as grilled sweet potato or bonito tataki<\/em>. But the star of the dinner was without any doubt the wagyu<\/em> beef shabu-shabu<\/strong>. Kagoshima is famous for its wagyu<\/em> beef which is certified for its authenticity. This Japanese-style fondue includes cooking various ingredients in a dashi <\/em>broth. A tasty dish that will warm your heart during cold winter evenings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
To digest such a feast, I visited the hotel after dinner. The ryokan<\/em> Ibusuki Hakusuikan is a famous place: there is the Satsuma Denshokan Museum<\/a>, and also shops, gardens, karaoke, restaurants, and even an outdoor swimming pool.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There is also a shochu<\/em> bar<\/strong>, offering a wide variety of choices. This sweet potato liquor, deliciously flavored, is a specialty of Kyushu. The Shochu Dojo allows you to taste different shochu<\/em>, and there is a store where you can buy a bottle, a perfect souvenir to bring back from Ibusuki for your family and friends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As for my room, it gave me the impression of living in a real palace. It mixed western comfort with the charm of traditional Japanese rooms. Each room has a balcony with a breathtaking view of the sea. It was without a doubt the most beautiful ryokan<\/em> I have stayed in Japan<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Now, let’s go and discover another local specialty of Ibusuki: dried bonito <\/strong>(katsuobushi <\/em>\u9c39\u7bc0). You might not recognize this ingredient in your meals; however, one of the staples of Japanese cuisine is dashi<\/em> broth, which is made of dried bonito.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Let’s go to Yamakawa<\/strong>, a fishing and trading port in Kinko Bay that has been thriving since the Meiji era (1868-1912). The secret of dried bonito production is a tradition inherited from generation to generation. Ibusuki is famous for its production of Honkare Honbushi <\/em>(\u672c\u67af\u672c\u7bc0), a local product that accounts for about 80% of the national market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Arriving at Yamakawa port, we met Hamamura-san who opened his doors to us at Daimaru Katsuobushi limited company (\u5927\u4e38\u9c39\u7bc0), in operation since 1946.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With his guidance, we discovered the manufacturing process of the dried bonito. This process takes 4 to 6 months and follows several steps according to tradition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The process is finally completed. The only thing left to do is to turn the flesh into shavings<\/strong>. When done, the precious dried bonito can be used.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Near the factory, you can find the company’s small store where you can taste different types of dried bonito freshly made into shavings. Some have a more strong or sweet taste than others. You can buy dried bonito in individual bags, but also some local products such as bonito with miso or soy sauce, dashi<\/em> broth, or spicy bonito sauce. There is something for everyone!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The next location will delight noodle lovers. Head to Tosenkyo Somen Nagashi<\/strong><\/a> (\u5510\u8239\u5ce1\u305d\u3046\u3081\u3093\u6d41\u3057), a nagashi-somen <\/em>restaurant that is all the rage in Ibusuki.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Traditional nagashi-somen <\/em>(\u6d41\u3057\u305d\u3046\u3081\u3093) are based on a peculiar concept: they are noodles floated down half of a bamboo stick that you have to catch along their journey down. So you have to be handy with your chopsticks, which is not easy for everyone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But Tosenkyo Somen Nagashi found the solution and adapted the concept by putting the noodles in a circular bowl. No more risk of missing your catch! This circular style of nagashi-somen<\/em> was born right here in Tosenkyo Gorge, which is ranked among the 100 most beautiful springs in Japan and whose water is famous for its quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The noodles are served in a stream of fresh water coming from the Tosenkyo Gorge at a temperature of 13\u00b0C. For the noodles to do their dance, no electricity is needed, the stream from the spring is enough. It is normally a summer dish that Japanese people eat in summer to cool down, but it is possible to eat it all year round here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We enjoyed this catch of fresh noodles, served with onigiri<\/em>, salt-roasted trout, koikoku <\/em>(miso soup with carp), and koi arai<\/em> (carp sashimi). All of this goes perfectly with somen<\/a>. As it is a summer dish, some Japanese prefer not to eat it during winter. So the restaurant also offers alternative hot dishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n