Hatsuhinode: Catching the First Sunrise at Oarai, Ibaraki

The radiant glow of the sun, brightly shining in the middle of a torii gate, and behind it, the vast, pristine Pacific Ocean. It was an image that immediately captured my attention. I kept flipping the pages of the magazine, but ultimately, returned to this scene. The only antidote to this lingering feeling was to witness the same scene with my own eyes. Armed with nothing but a feeling akin to love at first sight, I embarked on a journey to Oarai, in Ibaraki Prefecture, with a mission: to catch a glimpse of the first sunrise of the year, just like the image that has comfortably etched itself into my mind.

It was a significant time for me, as it was my first New Year in Japan. It was also an important time in history as the first new year of the 2020s decade. Somehow, I settled on a coastal city in Ibaraki Prefecture, which once held the title of “least attractive” prefecture. It ranked at the bottom of the pile for seven consecutive years, despite it being only an hour by express train from Tokyo. It’s the homeplace of the polarizing Japanese delicacy, natto, and known for its plum trees. Oarai, however, is one of the most popular spots for hatsuhinode in Japan. It’s a place where sunrise watchers can see the sun meet the stunning seaside Kamiiso Torii in the middle at the Oarai Isosaki Shrine, which is a truly rare sight that visitors to Japan must experience at least once.

What is Hatsuhinode and its Significance?

Ostensibly, first sunrise or hatsuhinode refers to the act of watching the sunrise of the coming year. Instead of fireworks, this tradition is how many choose to welcome the new year, especially in the Land of the Rising Sun. Many believe that the first sunrise brings good fortune, ultimately heralding a good year ahead.

This practice of observing the first sunrise of the year is customary in Shintoism and the worship of the sun goddess, Amaterasu. In the Heian period, nobles followed this custom, and in the Meiji period, the Shintoist practice continued. Moreover, it is also believed that Toshigamisama, the God of the New Year, arrived on the first day of the new year with sunrise.

Traveling to Oarai, Ibaraki Prefecture

I started my journey the day before New Year’s Eve, and took the Hitachi Limited Express from Tokyo Station to Mito Station. I arrived in just a little over an hour. 

I checked into my hotel and dropped off my things, before doing a side trip to Kashima. This area in Ibaraki is known for the sacred, crystal-clear Mitarashi Pond within Kashima Jingu Shrine. The pond is considered “blessed” and has a mysterious water source that is believed to never overflow or run dry. It’s also the site of a Shinto purification ceremony during winter, where worshippers would purify themselves in the pond. After my little sidequest, I made my way back to Mito Station just in time for dinner.

Catching the First Sunrise of the Year

Despite the freezing temperature, I woke up at 3am with barely any sleep. Either I was too excited or too anxious about what lay ahead. I put on multiple layers of clothing and stepped into the cold, with dawn just breaking. Normally, at this time, the train station would be empty, but I was surprised to see that many people were also traveling to Oarai, which made me feel less alone. 

After just three stops, I made it to Oarai Station, where I caught the bus to Oarai Isosaki Shrine. Despite taking the first bus, I already arrived later than most people. As the bus descends upon the seaside, there are already rows of avid observers lining up for the best spot. Photographers brought their best gear, and the beach was already packed with people. We all huddled in the cold, waiting in anticipation. I caught a few people braving the cold waters just to get a closer view. I tried to squeeze my way in, and the sight before me was already breathtaking. 

The waves cast a dark shadow as the first sunlight approached, the shadows of the people slowly disappearing, and amidst it all, the highlight: the sun enveloping the horizon, until it reached the middle of the iconic Kamiso no Torii gate standing on a rock out in the sea. A scene just like the one I’ve seen weeks back in a magazine, but now with my own eyes. 

I let out a small gasp, while the people around me were quietly cheering, and some exchanged a few words of blessing. I took some photos to look back on, but I mainly kept my eyes on the sun as it slowly made its way higher into the sky, making sure the memory is forever embedded in my mind.

As the crowd started to scatter, I made my way to the beach to get another look, not caring even if my shoes were filled with sand. The reflection of the sun’s rays looked even more radiant from there. It was a front-row view of the majestic orange hue of the sun, circular and commanding. I welcomed being sun-kissed for a while, enjoying the warmth amidst the winter air, and even had a chat among enthusiastic sun-watchers about the new year. 

To make the most of the scenery, I decided to walk the entire way back to Oarai Station. I wasn’t ready to let go of the view just yet. As I endured the cold breeze blowing on my face, the road led me to see many different angles of the sun and the horizon. It kept me company until I reached my destination. Almost six years later, I’ve experienced Hatsuhinode in many other places, but I’ve never felt the same sense of awe that I did back in Oarai.