Senbero Adventures in Sakuragicho: A Yokohama Escape

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When I first heard the word senbero, I was instantly curious. It comes from sen en de bero bero, meaning “getting happily tipsy for just 1,000 yen.” The idea is simple: a drink or two plus a small plate of food, all for around the price of a quick lunch. It’s an affordable indulgence, a cornerstone of Japan’s after-work drinking culture.

While Tokyo offers endless izakaya hopping, sometimes the real adventure lies in the next city over. Just a 30-minute ride from Shibuya brings you to Yokohama’s Sakuragicho, renowned for its nightlife and retro charm. For travelers, it’s a refreshing detour from Tokyo’s bustle, and for me and my wife Hikari, it became the perfect backdrop to an already busy weekend.

A Weekend of Sports and Senbero

We were in Yokohama for a weekend-long sporting event, with matches spread across both daytime and evening sessions. Between games, we looked for a place where we could refuel, relax, and soak up some local character. Pio City Yokocho, just steps from Sakuragicho Station, fit the bill perfectly.

Open from 11am until midnight, this underground warren of bars is designed for dipping in and out. Whether you want an afternoon bite, a cheeky highball, or a late night snack, it’s always buzzing. The mix of old school noren, retro beer posters, hanging lanterns and clinking glasses makes it feel like a time capsule of Showa-era Japan, but one that locals still very much use today.

The variety of food here is staggering for such a compact alley. You’ll find classic Japanese izakaya fare like tempura, sashimi, yakitori, and oden, hearty Chinese-style plates such as shumai and spring rolls, and grilled teppan dishes like tonpei-yaki and okonomiyaki. For those looking to round out the night, just outside at street level you’ll find excellent ramen shops to finish things off.

Before making our way underground, we hopped on the Yokohama Air Cabin, the cable car that drifts gracefully over Minato Mirai. From its glass gondolas we soaked in sweeping views of the city skyline, the gentle curves of the waterfront, and the Nippon Maru sailing ship gleaming in the afternoon sun, before gliding back down and stepping into Pio City.

Stop One: Victory in the Afternoon

Our first visit to the yokocho came after an afternoon match, when we had an hour to kill. Victory, a sports-themed izakaya, felt like the natural choice. It was the perfect spot to relive the best moments of the game, raising a frosty nama (draft) beer in celebration and letting the energy of the day carry us forward.

To go with it, we ordered corn and mitsuba kakiage tempura. The fritters came out golden and crisp, the sweetness of the corn offset by the fragrant herbal accent of the mitsuba. Light, crunchy, and satisfying, it was the perfect fuel before heading back to the stadium. And at under 1,000 yen for the round, we were already tasting the beauty of senbero culture.

Stop Two: Shumai Joe Between Sessions

Later that evening, we ducked back into Pio City for something more substantial. This time we chose Shumai Joe, a modern chuka-style izakaya specializing in shumai and fried snacks.

The open kitchen steamed baskets of shumai right at the counter, and the sight was impossible to resist. At just 99 yen apiece, the plump pork shumai were juicy and fragrant. We ordered two, plus a crisp lemon sour to balance the richness. With time to spare, we added shumai filled harumaki spring rolls, eggplant tempura, and a plate of karaage. Each dish came out piping hot, and each bite reminding us of Chinese cuisine’s influence in Yokohama.

For less than 1,000 yen you can sit down with a plate of five steaming shumai and a refreshing lemon sour. It’s unbeatable value, and Shumai Joe feels like the kind of place you could return to again and again, always finding something new to try.

Stop Three: Gentleman to Close the Night

After the final evening match, we returned to Pio City for a nightcap at Gentleman, a standing bar tucked further down the alley. The vibe here is casual and quick: no seats, just counters, with trays laid out for cash-on-delivery payment. It’s efficient, a little gritty, and absolutely charming.

Behind the counter, a chef worked a large teppan grill while staff poured drinks at lightning speed. The walls were plastered with menus boasting favorites like menchi katsu and tonpei-yaki. Regulars came and went, stopping for a quick drink before melting back into the night.

We’d missed its famous Crazy Hour (weekday afternoons, when Dewar’s highballs go for just 45 yen each), but even without it, Gentleman felt like a discovery. We ordered lemon sours and stood shoulder to shoulder with other customers, savoring the buzz of a bar that felt equal parts rough and ready and warmly familiar.

The Ramen Finale: Sakigakeboshi

Of course, no night of drinking is complete without ramen. From Gentleman, it was a short walk to Sakigakeboshi, a shop famed for its inventive bowls. Their signature is truffle-infused shio ramen, and it didn’t disappoint.

The broth was clear yet rich, its delicate salt base deepened with earthy truffle aroma. Thin noodles slipped gracefully through the soup, topped with tender slices of pork, seasonal greens, and a ramen egg. It was elegant but comforting, the kind of ramen that quiets the noise of the day.

After hours of sports, laughter, and hopping between bars, that bowl of truffle ramen felt like the perfect exclamation point.

Why Sakuragicho is Worth the Detour

Sakuragicho isn’t just about cheap drinks, it’s about variety, atmosphere, and the joy of discovery. Victory in the afternoon, Shumai Joe later on, Gentleman and ramen late at night: each stop had its own personality, yet together they told the story of a place where everyday life and nightlife collide in the best way.

For anyone staying in Tokyo, Yokohama is just a short train ride away. Whether you’re there for sports, sightseeing, or simply to explore, Sakuragicho offers an escape that feels authentic, affordable, and endlessly fun. And if you’re chasing the true spirit of senbero, Pio City Yokocho is the place to start.

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