I’ve known Michail Gkinis for not far off 20 years now. A maverick of design, he’s a graduate of the prestigious London College of Fashion and was one of the first ever foreign-born interns at the legendary Issey Miyake brand in Japan. The Thessaloniki native has called Tokyo home for nearly two decades and with his wife Yuko Gkinis Aoyama runs the Michail Gkinis Aoyama brand from their lovely atelier in the beautiful Todoroki area of Tokyo.
Gkinis kick-started his career in Japan when his first label aptform showed as part of the Tokyo Fashion Week program which is where I first happened upon his work when I was covering fashion for The Japan Times. His designs, which have always really been considered gender neutral, have built over the years a legion of fans including Hollywood star Jared Leto.
Aptform naturally gave way for Michail Gkinis Aoyama and its new life in Todoroki where the atelier sits only a few minutes from Todoroki Station on the Tokyu Oimachi Line. Having been there for a few years now it’s collected its own base of new fans in addition to regular customers from the aptform days.
Omotenashi Service
I sat down for a chat with Yuko and Michail on a sweltering summer’s day in August at their atelier and discussed how Michail Gkinis Aoyama and their focus on “wearable art” is carving its own niche catering directly for inbound tourists to Tokyo and how the brand is embracing gender neutral apparel and services which can be enjoined by the many.
When I asked Yuko and Michail about their new services that they are offering to their customers and tourists to Japan they replied:
“Maybe tourists are looking for an activity after dinner like shopping for example. So, we can happily say that we can be available for them until 10pm any night of the week. They can come by appointment. We want to provide a space where tourists can experience Japanese fabrics in our special shapes. They can also enjoy Japanese drinks such as sake and umeshu (plum wine). We can also be available in the morning if need be.
“We have a booking website but they can also reserve by phone or message us on LINE or Instagram. And we also accept credit cards, of course. If they are tired and cannot make it to the store we can also offer a virtual shopping experience on Zoom and we can introduce our products to them and we can ship whatever they want the next day to their hotel. The last option is if Michail has time he can actually visit their hotel with some products.
“We have regular customers from Hong Kong and they were so happy that we provide these kinds of services as big brands don’t offer these kinds of services to their customers. We can be more flexible and of course the designer is actually here — in house. So, they can have a special experience. Experience is important to us. Not only shopping but we can have drinks, talk about the fabrics and craftsmanship involved in our clothing. They can also ask about what to do and where to go in this area (Todoroki). Actually a really nice unagi (eel) restaurant recently opened nearby in front of the station area. There’s also a wonderful soba and sake restaurant in this area too. Todoroki also has a very famous patisserie! In autumn Todoroki valley is very nice to visit too. All of the information about our services is on our website.”
Clothing Ideal for 21st Century Lifestyles
With beautiful cornice stoles, hand painted accessories, scarves, coats that can be worn in a variety of styles and silhouettes due to their origami-like quality and a range of other apparel, Gkinis’ designs are revolutionary, innovative, light, versatile and come at an affordable price point making them ideal for souvenirs. Created from the best quality Japanese textiles, made in tandem with some of the country’s most renowned manufacturers, the brand is going from strength to strength and can be considered as leading the way in inclusive, groundbreaking fashion suited for 21st century lifestyles.
Refashioning the Kimono
One of the ongoing projects of Michail Gkinis Aoyama is focused on kimono modernization. Through upcycling and recycling old and vintage kimono Gkinis deconstructs and then reconstructs the fabric into a garment which can be worn in five silhouettes. “The new designs are ageless, genderless and timeless,” he says. “Combined with Japanese leather, Ultrasuede and our signature high tech knitted fabric. One style can be transformed into many variations and can be worn in different occasions according to the needs of the personality and lifestyle of the wearer.It can be purchased on a customized and personalized semi order method using your kimono having an appointment at our atelier or from our ready-made kimonos that can be purchased online as well.”
From September 14-15, 2024 Michail Gkinis Aoyama will show “Wearable Art with Japanese Experience” as part of the London Design Festival. From 1pm-8pm at The Prince Akatoki in London. More information can be found here.
Michail Gkinis Aoyama: 1A 4-5-9, Todoroki, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 158-0082
