Noge: Yokohama’s Bustling Drinking Hub

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Located in Japan’s second-largest city and sporting over 600 bars, izakaya, and restaurants, the drinking district of Nogecho in Yokohama offers all of the distilled delights of Shinjuku’s Golden Gai, but with far more room to breathe. As the sun sets on the Ooka River and day-traders pull down their shutters, the lanterns of Nogecho, or simply Noge, are illuminated. These vibrant beacons will be your guide to an Elysium of ethanol, with each storefront offering refuge for those wishing to quench a thirst or feast on a litany of local cuisine. If variety is the spice of life, then Noge’s concoction of eateries and izakaya is most certainly bursting with flavor.

Local History 

Preceding the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the Port of Yokohama was officially (re)opened in 1859, becoming Japan’s first major trading hub. At the time, Yokohama was a simple fishing village, but possessed great international potential due to its location. This foreign attraction has since become a key characteristic of Yokohama, with its Chinatown being the largest in East Asia and a popular spot for tourists. Away from the fervent footfall of Chinatown, however, a mere 20-minute stroll will put you at the welcome mat of Noge, an area that possesses its own fascinating history. Noge, however, is not a district that simply remembers its roots, rather it continues to embrace them and clings strongly to the traditions of the simple Japanese tavern. Yet, this ode to everything izakaya, it could be argued, is a relative unknown to those outside of Japan.

Certainly compared to the claustrophobic and frankly oversubscribed alleys of Golden Gai, a night in Noge may be a first for many travelers and a name that perhaps rings few bells. Noge’s own history rather befits this imprint of secrecy, having emerged post-World War II as a source for black market goods. This soon evolved into a vibrant entertainment district, influenced both by Showa-era traditions and the modern music philosophies of American soldiers stationed nearby. What resulted was an unpredictable, yet well-crafted flow of cosmopolitan cultures, with Noge’s lantern-laden streets then and now populated not just with Japanese izakaya, but many a jazz club and rock bar too.

The Spirit of (Alcoholic) Adventure

Noge implores exploration. The term bar-hopping is a tenet of this sake-seasoned district. As such, a successful night should feature not merely a single eatery or bar, but an orchestra of local delights, with each player contributing their own distinctive sound to the alcohol-infused aria that is Nogecho. From intimate izakaya to spacious yakitori vendors, there is a taste for every palette. Though, with such an overwhelming number of establishments on offer, it can be understandably difficult to settle on where to drink and dine. So, just for you, we have prepared a tasting set for a traveler’s first foray into Noge, featuring stores both little and large, out in the open and hidden away. 

The Tasting Menu: Select Establishments

Let’s take a closer look at Yokohama’s nightlife district, Noge, and discover some of its highlights.

Nogechan: Standing Bar

Nogecho is a nocturnal animal, waking up when others are preparing to sleep, with many of its bars opening from late in the evening. There are certainly exceptions to this rule, however, with one of the best examples on offer being Nogechan, a standing bar that opens from 11:30am. There is seating available, but the well-earned popularity of this dense izakaya usually translates to many of its patrons standing. A favorite of office workers who clock off early, the highlights of the menu include the Nogechan Highball, a slightly sweet ginger ale cocktail with a whisky base, and the motsunabe, an offal stew which is lightly salted and delivers a fabulous flavor with its soy-sauce soup. When dining at the outside counter, Nogechan is a seamless spot to start the night, as you view the sun setting in unison with the lanterns coming to life, as the heart of Noge starts to beat. 

Noge Shoten: Showa Izakaya

The second stop on this tipple tour brings us to Noge Shoten, a Showa-era izakaya which upon entering certainly transports the customer back many a decade. Compact but comfortable, Noge Shoten is an izakaya that promotes conversation. It’s here that you are likely to receive several recommendations on where to travel to next. Though at the store itself, the must-try item has to be the pork nikomi, a stew made from fatty pork that pairs perfectly with an ice-cold namachuu (draft beer). Noge Shoten also offers a wide array of seasonal items, from sashimi to shellfish, which undoubtedly encourages a return visit. Many of these seasonal items are also available as part of a 2-hour nomihodai (all you can drink) course.

60Hz: River Bar

Now that the sun has truly set and Noge’s narrow streets are awash with revelry, a stroll by the Ooka River promises both impressive neon lighting and an inviting lineup of riverfront bars. For lovers of the record needle, the recommendation here is 60Hz, which picks up the baton for the running motif of intimate and inviting. Opening from 6pm and only seating around eight patrons, you will immediately be drawn in by the easy-going and interactive demeanor of the izakaya master. The consummate conversationalist, the owner of 60Hz ensures that all of his customers are having as good a time as he is. Sip a highball to the tune of a well-curated backing track, while the calm river currents flow just a few feet behind you. A bar that exudes familiarity, you may well leave having made one or two more friends than before you sat down.

Jalan Jalan: Hidden Bar

For one last stop, let’s step off the street and into a bar that is somewhat hidden. This spirit of seclusion well emulates the history of Noge, with its background as a black market necessitating an air of secrecy. To that end, you should search out Jalan Jalan, located on the third floor of an unassuming storefront. Open from 8pm, if you stumble upon Jalan Jalan, then you have discovered one superbly fashionable and refined bar. Offering an assortment of delectable drinks, from aromatic jasmine highballs to a curated collection of craft beers, Jalan Jalan also excels with culinary excellence, with the assorted shumai (Chinese dumplings) being a personal favorite.

The First Visit of Many

Even if you frequent several establishments on a single night, it is guaranteed that you have not even scratched the surface of Noge. Recommending where to go can be tough, as the district is abound with domestic delicacies. The solution to this dilemma? You visit again and again. With each store presenting its own unique flavor and feel, no single trip down Noge’s lantern-lit alleys is the same. There is an undeniable charm to Noge’s personality that a visitor should try as much as they can, as it is this spirit of inquisitiveness that embodies the area. So, slide open the izakaya doors and let yourself be enamored with the tastes and tenors of this landmark drinking district. 

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