Ogoto Onsen: Lakeside Hot Spring Resort a Short Hop from Kyoto

Only about 30 minutes by train from central Kyoto, Ogoto Onsen is a small and historic hot spring resort just over the mountains in neighboring Shiga Prefecture. Situated on the southern shores of Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake, this quiet and unassuming onsen town has long served as a convenient countryside getaway for residents of Kyoto and Osaka, the region’s two most populous cities, and yet is still relatively unknown to overseas visitors. 

Ancient Temples and Historic Hot Springs

The hot spring baths here are said to have been established about 1,200 years ago by Saicho, the founder of Enryaku-ji, a sacred temple at the top of Mount Hiei. Also known as Hiei-zan, this mountain just to the northeast of Kyoto houses the large Enryaku-ji temple complex near its summit, which is the headquarters of the Tendai sect of Japanese Buddhism, and arguably one of the most important religious sites in the country. During the feudal period, the temple was run by a powerful army of warrior monks who had numerous battles with other religious sects and political rivals, which ultimately played an important part in the history of both Kyoto and Japan.

Ogoto Onsen however has a slightly less tumultuous history; the natural hot springs here, which lie close to the foot of the mountain on the Shiga side, boast highly alkaline waters which are believed to help cure all kinds of ailments and leave bathers with beautiful, soft skin. The hot springs are actually connected to a local legend of an eight-headed snake and a nearby pond fed by groundwater, which was said to have healing properties. When locals drank from the pond (now in the grounds of Hoko-ji Temple) it cured their illnesses and other ailments, but it wasn’t until the Taisho era (1912-1926) that Ogoto Onsen began to properly develop as a hot spring retreat. It was discovered that the waters were full of radium minerals, and after the railway was built, numerous hot spring inns began to pop up in the area.

From the late 1970s and into the 1980s, Ogoto Onsen garnered a slightly seedy reputation with the opening of a Turkish bath and various adult entertainment businesses. But after the economic bubble burst in the 1990s, many establishments went out of business, and the town began overhauling its image to attract more families, couples and those looking for a peaceful hot spring retreat.

A Place to Stay

There are 10 hot spring inns in Ogoto Onsen, the oldest and most renowned of which is Yumotokan, a large traditional hot spring hotel with a choice of outdoor baths, including an open-air rooftop bath with views over Lake Biwa. 

I recently had the pleasure of staying at neighboring Ryokusuitei, a fancy hot spring hotel right on the lakeshore. It was a grey and rainy day, and after taking the short shuttle bus ride from the station to the hotel, we were warmly greeted by the hotel concierge and smoothly checked in. After enjoying a welcome tea in the lobby, we were shown to our room up on the fifth floor, a gorgeous and traditionally-furnished space with tatami-mat floors, comfortable futon beds (western-style are also available), large windows looking out over the lake, and best of all, a private hot spring bath on the balcony. It was the perfect place to relax and unwind, and the miserable weather outside just made it all seem extra cozy.

Hot Baths and Unique Cuisine

With a couple of hours to spare before dinner, I slipped downstairs to the grand public bathhouse on the ground floor. There is a choice of piping-hot indoor and outdoor baths, and after wallowing in the waters for a while, I headed into the wooden barrel sauna which uses tea-infused water to steam all the toxins out of you. Feeling fully relaxed and revitalised by the mineral-rich spring water, it was now time for dinner. In the evenings hotel guests are treated to a delicious multi-course kaiseki dinner comprising of local specialities such as Omi beef, duck hotpot, and fish including Biwa trout, while seasonal delicacies such as winter snow crab can also be enjoyed. After a truly delicious and belly-filling meal, I retired to my room and gazed across the lake from the seclusion of the balcony bath — a perfect end to the day.

Awake bright and early and after another dip in the outdoor hot spring, breakfast was a buffet-style affair, featuring a smorgasbord of fruits, fresh seafood, pastries and other treats. Feeling fully recharged and with a youthful glow to the skin, it was time to pack my bags and checkout, ready for a day exploring Shiga from this blissful hot spring base.

Sights of Shiga

Shiga is an often overlooked prefecture, but it has many excellent attractions beyond Japan’s largest lake. A short train ride north from Ogoto Onsen is the ever-popular Biwako Terrace; reachable by ropeway, this hilltop café boasts spectacular panoramic views out over Lake Biwa, and during the winter there is excellent skiing to be had at the adjacent Biwako Valley Ski Resort. Nearby Omi-Maiko is one of the best summer swimming spots on Lake Biwa, with its golden sandy beaches and tree-shaded picnic spots. Over on the east side of the lake is the historic town of Hikone, home to a charming small castle amid scenic grounds and gardens. The neighboring city of Nagahama also has a (reconstructed) castle and lots of other historical treasures.

How to Get to Ogoto Onsen

Ogoto Onsen is easy to get to from Kyoto. Trains on the JR Kosei Line reach Ogoto Onsen Station in less than 30 minutes from Kyoto Station.

Many of the town’s hotels operate free shuttle buses to pick up guests from Ogoto Onsen Station so be sure to check when making your reservation. Otherwise, there are taxis, or it’s a 20-minute walk from the station to the main hotel area.