Gyoza: A Tochigi Heirloom 

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Momos, Jiaozi, Pierogies, Gyoza — almost every culture has its own form of dumpling. Its edges folded, twisted or flat, boiled or pan-fried, dumplings hold the satisfaction and textures of a full meal, in a single bite. Utsunomiya, located in Tochigi Prefecture, is one city in particular that takes pride in its gyoza, continuing regional traditions with care to this day.

“Its roots can be traced to the post-war period in the late 1940s, when Japanese soldiers left Manchuria, bringing the dumpling recipes back to the city of Utsunomiya,” says the local guide, who offers me a host of pamphlets and guides, alongside this snippet of history. Since then, recipes have evolved from the classic pork, garlic chives, and cabbage formula and have been recreated by the city’s citizens, where they can be experienced across numerous restaurants specializing in their own, unique recipe.

The Symbol 

Within the first few steps of walking into Utsunomiya Station, it’s evident that this prefectural meibutsu (staple) is well-loved. Near the station’s gates,  there are numerous omiyage (souvenir) shops with gyoza-themed and flavored consumer goods. It’s almost guaranteed you’ll bring gyoza home, in some shape or form, to a loved one near and far. From the very familiar side-kick ramen, to the intriguing gyoza-flavored potato chips, there’s at least one bound to catch your curious eye and leave you feeling hungry (or at least intrigued) for more. 

A few steps outside the shops, via the station’s West exit, stands the gyoza statue made with oya ishi (a stone originating from Oya, Utsunomiya’s old mining site) to commemorate the dish as a proud symbol of Utsunomiya City. 

The Taste 

Dumplings are an open ended question, leaving chefs with overwhelming possibility. Some shops in Utsunomiya, including Gyoza no Carol, offers a seafood filling (海鮮焼き餃子),  in addition to the classic pork. These options and combinations create a long list of Utsunomiya “must eats,” followed by the dilemma: where to go and how to choose? 

The Undecided Eater

For the undecided eater and palate, the answer lies in a 15 to 20 minute walk from the station. From the West Exit, if you follow the central road toward Baba-cho Bus Station, you’ll find Gyōza-kai Kirasse. On a sunny day, it’s a calm walk which is ideal for building an appetite. It offers a menu of gyoza from restaurants across the city, and depending on the day, the options can differ. On this particular autumnal day, I tried the Mokuyoubi (Thursday) Set A which consists of 10 gyoza in total and a lineup including the following stores:

• Hanjou-en 飯城園
• Konomi コノミ
• Gyoza Kaikan 餃子会館 
• Tamachan Gyoza 玉ちゃん

The Explorer 

For the more explorative palate itching for fresh takes, I recommend Bariron, located inside Utsunomiya Station. Unlike the classic minced pork, its fillings include larger pieces of pork, and offer topping options of coriander or mala (Szechuan peppercorn seasoning). It was recommended to dip the gyoza in vinegar and black pepper, a lighter and more sappari (refreshing) take on the classic soy sauce, chili oil and vinegar dipping sauce combination. It also serves sui gyoza (boiled dumplings) with topping options that include fresh yuzu peel and ginger. This spot echoes of conversation and laughter, doubling as a post-work gathering spot –  ideal for mingling and sharing a beer with friends or colleagues.

Home and the Family 

The love for gyoza transcends restaurants and lives in the homes and the dinner tables of Tochigi locals. While reliability of taste are fundamental reasons customers return to restaurants, families are often inspired by tradition and recipes due to convenience, nostalgia, and comfort outweighing restaurant consistency. 

Similar to its historical origins in Utsunomiya, my late-grandmother, Sumiko, learned how to make gyoza through the teachings of her mother, who also carried her recipe back to Japan from Manchuria during the war. Since then, the dish has been routinely served on birthdays, family gatherings, and weekend dinners. Our home has always stuck to the following for the filling: cabbage, garlic chives, minced pork, sesame oil and shoyu which are measured  generously with kankaku (feeling) and heart. 

Eager to learn more about other Tochigi family traditions, I reached out to Tochigi local and family friend, Hatsumi Akimoto, who says her go-to spot in Utsunomiya is Masashi, a well-known city favorite loved by many. At home, however, she likes to include cabbage, minced pork, garlic chives, and garlic in the gyoza filling. She also mentions having friends who make a vegetarian version with Japanese crunchy chili oil (taberu raiyu) as a secret ingredient.

The Creative Process

The possibilities are endless, and the foundations are only the starting point to creating gyoza that best suits you and your family’s tastes. 

Upon finely chopping and combining all ingredients comes the time for folding. Folding gyoza can be a collective or independent task. One where the chopping is complete, the frying or boiling is incoming, and the noise of a busy kitchen momentarily subsides. In my experience, it holds space for reflection, for stories, or silences shared between loved ones.

Whether you’re exploring Utsunomiya’s shops, or making them at home, it’s a testament to a dish that honors the past, holds a gratitude for the here and now, and embraces the future. From its Utsunomiya post-war evolution to the family home, gyoza remains a celebration of its own becoming. 

Feature Image: Roghib Nugraha

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