A Journey Through Time: Discovering Kaga’s Hidden Treasures from Kanazawa

There’s something magical about escaping the bustling streets of Kanazawa for the quieter, more intimate landscapes of Kaga. This overnight journey takes you from one of Japan’s most celebrated gardens through historic villages and onsen towns that feel like whispered secrets, known mostly to those who venture just a little further off the beaten path.

Day One: From Garden Splendor to Mountain Serenity

Your adventure begins at Kanazawa Station, that striking contemporary gateway that somehow perfectly complements the traditional beauty waiting just beyond. From there, a 10-minute taxi ride brings you to Kenrokuen Garden, and stepping through its entrance is like walking into a living painting. As expected from one of Japan’s three great gardens, it’s a masterclass in landscape design that has been refined over two centuries.

What strikes you first is how the garden reveals itself gradually. Each turn presents a new vista, carefully composed yet feeling very natural. The renowned natural water fountain pushes skyward with nothing but water pressure, while ancient trees extend their gnarled branches, supported by elaborate rope structures that will later cradle winter’s snow — that iconic image that has come to symbolize Kanazawa itself. Even on a grey autumn morning, when moss carpets the ground in luminous green, the garden proves what its curators have long claimed: it’s designed to captivate in every season.

From this contemplative start, you’ll only need to walk about 10 minutes to reach coil, where tradition meets contemporary creativity in the most delicious way possible. Unlike in traditional sushi restaurants, here, you become part of the culinary process, learning to craft your own hosomaki which are those deceptively simple thin rolls that have been cherished in Kanazawa for generations. Don’t worry if your first attempt looks more abstract than artistic; you’ll have four chances to perfect your technique, and the quality of the ingredients ensures everything tastes delicious, regardless of its appearance. The experience is finished with traditional tea preparation, giving you a heartwarming and genuine connection to Japanese culinary culture.

After lunch, board the Shinkansen for a swift 18-minute journey to Kagaonsen Station. This is where the adventure takes a quieter, more intimate turn. Your first stop in Kaga is a mere 10-minute taxi ride away from the station: Hashitate Kitamae Senshu Village, once known as Japan’s richest village. As you wander streets lined with walls of soft greenish Shakudani-ishi stone walls, you’re walking through a part of Japan’s maritime history. This was a community built on the wealth of the Kitamae-bune trade route, and the grandeur of the rebuilt homes, after an 1872 fire, tells that story without the need for words.

Because it remains mostly unknown, Hashitate has retained an authenticity that is increasingly rare. For visitors, this means quiet streets, genuinely warm greetings from locals, and the rare gift of exploring a historic district at your own pace, camera in hand, without needing to dodge tour groups.

Continue to Yamanaka Onsen’s Yuge Kaido Street, a 35-minute taxi ride away, where steam rises atmospherically from the hot springs that have drawn visitors for over 1,300 years. The main street is lined with galleries and shops showcasing exquisite Yamanaka lacquerware and Kutani porcelain, that you can admire while enjoying a taste of the local snacks: croquettes, ice cream, traditional sweets, and more. Further ahead, the two onsen—one for men and one for women—welcome you for a pleasant pause any day of the week. Please note that the public bath is closed on the second and fourth Tuesdays of each month.

A mere ten-minute walk away, your home for the night is Yamanaka Onsen Kajikaso, a hot spring inn that opened its doors in 2025. The spacious lobby sets the tone with complimentary drinks served from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., while expansive windows offer tranquil views of the surrounding forest and the Kakusenkei Gorge below. The evening buffet at Restaurant Ryusai might just redefine your expectations of hotel dining: there, you can enjoy an overwhelming array of beautifully prepared dishes of more than 80 kinds, spanning traditional Japanese fare to family-friendly options, featuring fresh Hokuriku ingredients.

Save room for one more adventure, however. A six-minute walk brings you to Kaga Washu Bar Engawa, an intimate ten-seat sanctuary dedicated to Ishikawa’s sake culture. Bartender Yusuke Shimoki, the prefecture’s first sake master, guides you through selected pairings, his enthusiasm transcending language barriers. The bar occupies a converted old house that perfectly balances nostalgic charm with contemporary style, making it the ideal spot to toast your first day’s discoveries.

Day Two: Nature, Craft, and Contemplation

After breakfast, the morning calls you outdoors. Just outside Kajikaso lies the entrance to Kakusenkei Gorge, a scenic valley where the Daishoji River has carved dramatic rock formations through lush forest. The Ayatori Bridge floats across the gorge, offering your first glimpse of the rushing waters below. Every surface is carpeted in moss, and as you walk, the sound of flowing water and dappled sunlight work their relaxing magic.

Follow the riverside path to Kakusenkei Gorge Kawadoko, a terrace open from April to November where raised platforms perch beside the river. Arriving in the crisp morning air, you’ll appreciate the warmth of fresh coffee paired with sweet oshiruko bean porridge and roll cake which are recipes said to have been crafted by celebrity Iron Chef Rokusaburo Michiba, a Yamanaka Onsen native. Surrounded by the sound of water from multiple directions, it’s a moment of pure tranquility.

Next, comes a hands-on connection to the region’s 450-year woodworking tradition at mokume, an eight-minute walk from the river. Owner Yuji Sato moved here from Osaka specifically to learn from Yamanaka’s master craftsmen, and for 17 years he’s been perfecting his art. Under his gentle guidance, you’ll shape your own wooden bowl on a lathe, the wood transforming from rough to silky smooth as you work. The experience is more accessible than you’d expect, and knowing that Sato will later apply the lacquer finish and send you the completed piece makes it a truly special souvenir as it’s one you created yourself.

A short walk later, you’ll discover Enuma Station, a restaurant that brings French bistro elegance to this mountain town. Chef Kazuyuki Kuchide’s warm enthusiasm is evident in every beautifully presented course. The daily-changing menu features local fish, meat, fruits, and vegetables, with each dish both a love letter to the region’s ingredients and a testament to the area’s commitment to quality.

Your final stop, a 16-minute taxi ride away, is Natadera Temple: an ancient site of the Hakusan faith dating 1,300 years. Give yourself time to truly experience this location. After passing through the moss-covered approach, you will find a large rocky mountain (the Kigan-Yūsenden scenic rock formations). Further ahead, after passing the three-story pagoda, there is an observation deck offering a panoramic view of the well-maintained garden—remember to look for the heart-shaped hedge. As you rest on one of the benches, surrounded by nature and history, you’ll understand why this is considered a place where the soul is renewed.

The Journey Home

As you board the train towards your next destination, you’ll be carrying more than souvenirs and photos. This journey is an opportunity to experience authentic Japanese culture and natural beauty without fighting crowds, and to connect with passionate locals keeping traditional crafts alive. Kaga proves that sometimes the greatest treasures lie not in the most well-known destinations, but just one station beyond them, waiting for those willing to venture a little further.

For more exclusive information and ideas to add to your journey, visit The Official Ishikawa Travel Guide and follow the prefecture on Instagram.