The Winter Wonders of Otaru

Japan is one of the snowiest countries in the world, and from around December to March, much of Hokkaido — the country’s northernmost island — is transformed into a winter wonderland. The frigid temperatures and huge dumps of light and fluffy powder snow make the island a hub for winter sports enthusiasts, with resorts such as Niseko and Furano drawing in crowds from both home, and increasingly, abroad. But even if you are not into skiing and snowboarding, Hokkaido has a lot to offer travelers during the cold winter season, and the small city of Otaru (a short distance northwest of Sapporo) is one of the island’s most interesting and easily accessible winter destinations. And it also happens to be one of the snowiest cities in Japan.

City of History

A small port city on the Japan Sea coast of Hokkaido, Otaru is packed to the brim with history, character and old-fashioned charm, making it a popular day trip from nearby Sapporo. The city played a crucial role in the Japanese colonization and development of Hokkaido in the late 19^th century, serving as a major port and the terminus of the island’s first railway line. Otaru quickly became wealthy thanks to herring fishing and as a center for industry and banking, with many Western-style brick warehouses and office buildings being built. Much of this unique architecture remains, with many of the historical buildings now functioning as museums, art galleries and shops, which all adds to Otaru’s quaint atmosphere. 

A ten minute walk from the station, Otaru Canal is the city’s main landmark. The old brick warehouses lining the waterway house restaurants and a beer brewery, and look wonderfully atmospheric on a snowy evening. Another popular nearby spot is the equally photogenic Sakaimachi-hondori, whose old brick buildings house shops, cafés, glassware galleries and music box stores, giving the street a wonderful whimsical charm, especially in the snow.

Otaru Snow Festival

The undoubted highlight of Otaru’s winter attractions is the ever-popular Otaru Snow Light Path Festival, which is held every year for a week or so from around early to mid-February. During this enchanting event, parts of the city are lit up with glowing lights, and popular spots such as Otaru Canal are decorated with hundreds of snow lanterns, creating a magical and romantic atmosphere. This winter tradition started in 1999, and while the light-up along the canal is the main draw (running daily from around 5pm to 9pm), you can also see snow lanterns and other decorations at various venues across the city. During the festival I often enjoy wandering through the Temiyasen area, a park-like walkway which follows the old railway line through the city which is decorated with cozy lanterns and lit-up snow sculptures, but with far fewer crowds than along the canal. The nearby Otaru Art Base also has a few snowy attractions including illuminations and a snow slide. 

Otaru’s snow light path festival conveniently coincides with Sapporo’s famous snow festival, so you can easily make it to both events during a single trip. 

Winter Sports in Hokkaido

Otaru serves as a great base if you’re planning on doing a bit of skiing or snowboarding during your winter Hokkaido trip. The city is home to a number of small resorts, with more extensive ones just a short bus ride or drive away. Closest to the city center is Tenguyama, a popular 532m high mountain with a ropeway, which you can ride up year-round for panoramic views over the city. It is also home to a small ski resort, with short beginner to expert runs which is perfect for a quick blast on the slopes. 

My personal local favorite is Asarigawa Onsen Ski Resort, a quiet and friendly resort with courses to suit all levels, and a number of hot spring bath options close to the foot of the slopes. If you’re interested in night skiing, then a little further east is Snow Cruise Onze — it boasts wide runs with glorious ocean views, and is open into the evening. About 40 minutes from Otaru by bus or car is Kiroro, a fantastic ski resort high up in the mountains offering numerous runs and late-season skiing all the way until early May. The well-known resorts and legendary powder snow of Niseko, while a little further away, are also accessible from Otaru, by car, train or bus.

Other Attractions in Otaru

Aside from the lantern festival and winter sports, Otaru has a lot more to offer winter travelers too. A short hop from Otaru Station is the Sankaku Market, a small and lively indoor seafood market best visited in the morning for the freshest catch. Squeeze between crates of bright orange king crabs and enormous shellfish and take in the sights, sounds and smells — many of the stalls have restaurants tucked away behind them, where you can munch down on super fresh sashimi and seafood rice bowls. After breakfast, I usually like to wander down towards Otaru Canal, perhaps stopping off at one of the city’s many museums – the Bank of Japan Otaru Museum is a free-to-enter and surprisingly interesting showcase of Japanese currency in a beautifully preserved former bank building. 

While usually bustling with tourists, there is no denying the picture-book charm of Sakaimachi-hondori, a quaint street lined with old brick buildings. Keep your eyes peeled for the steam-powered clock outside the Music Box Museum,  and also be sure to grab a sweet treat at LeTao or Rokkatei, two of Hokkaido’s most prized confectioners. 

If you have more than half a day to spend in Otaru, then consider hopping on a bus to visit the Old Aoyama Villa, a beautifully-preserved wooden house which was once the home of a wealthy fishing merchant family. The nearby Otaru Aquarium is great for families; the winter penguin parades are always popular.

How to Get to Otaru

Otaru has regular train connections to Sapporo along the JR Hakodate Main Line; a one way trip takes 40 minutes by rapid train and costs 800 yen. There are about two direct trains an hour going to and from New Chitose Airport (via Sapporo); the journey takes about 75 minutes and costs 2,040 yen. 

Do note that in the winter, trains (and to a lesser extent buses) can be delayed and cancelled due to bad weather, and sections of the expressway can be closed too.