Summer in Hokkaido

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Though Hokkaido ranks high within the pantheon of powder snow destinations, it’s no one-trick pony. Japan’s largest single prefecture hosts more than its fair share of four-season activities, which avoid the spotlight in the zeitgeist of Japan travel. Hokkaido is a land where humanity’s dominance over nature is scant, sans a few glistening urban corridors. The further you travel from Sapporo, into the foothills beneath ancient mountains, through breadbasket fields and primeval forests, nature’s density grows as our world retreats. While fragile, this balance act spotlights Hokkaido’s greatest commodities, culinary and cultural, enhanced by a wealth of natural beauty. Summer in Hokkaido is relatively mild when compared to the sweltering humidity of Honshu. In its easternmost reaches, you might be surprised by the chill that lingers in the air that reminds you winter is never that far away. 

Northern Hokkaido: Fresh Food and Blue Skies

Along the north coast of the Sea of Okhotsk, Lake Notoro, and Lake Saroma, and their brackish lagoon waters hold some of the region’s best seafood. Cycling the Okhotsk Cycling Route brings you within meters of these twin lagoons and their source waters out in the ocean. Following a route that once served Abashiri and was constructed by laborers from its infamous prison, you’ll enjoy the fair weather teeming with wildlife. In the port town of Tokoro at the Tokoro Fisheries Cooperative Direct Shop, you can buy fresh scallops, large and juicy, and filled with flavor. Additionally, the shop also sells preserved goods perfect for bringing back after your adventure. 

Near the Lake Saroma Tsugaru Resort is the Wakka Primeval Flower Garden, home to over 300 species of flowers which bloom seasonally, their bright colors accent the pretty blue skies and dance softly in the coastal winds. A writer from the Meiji period once quipped that this place’s otherworldly characteristics made him feel as if he was departing earth toward a dragon’s palace. Visitors eager to soak in these dynamic views can rent cycles and travel along two separate courses. While cycles cost money, the facility is open to the public for free. 

Just three hours to the east by bike is the Notoro Cape, with a quaint lighthouse that rises above the cliffs of this rocky peninsula. If you are in search of a guided trip, local guiding outfit Connectrip offers a beginner’s tour which includes rental cycles and a short kayak trip across the mouth of the Lake Notoro lagoon. 

If you are not in the Tokoro area, rental bikes are also available in downtown Kitami near the station and bus terminal at the Kitami Cycle Station.

Eastern Hokkaido: The Wild Shiretoko National Park

East Hokkaido is vast which makes the choice of destinations almost too much. One destination that rises above the rest is the Shiretoko Five Lakes within the grand Shiretoko National Park, a magnificently preserved and exceptionally wild peninsula. Access to this park is limited due to the abundant presence of fearsome brown bears. From the Shiretoko Five Lakes Fieldhouse, walk above the dense vegetation on a skywalk platform with panoramic views of the mountains and oceans alike. 

Due to the brown bear activity around the five lakes, certain areas are only accessible with a certified guides. Reservations with such guides are required to venture off the skywalk during these periods and often fill up quickly. 

Just across the mountains, on the coasts of the small fishing town of Rausu, is a new kind of accommodation known as Kobu Stay. Owned by a family of kelp fishermen, the space sits right on the water. A private stay for up to six people, it features a full kitchen, a Japanese-style tatami room, and laundry. The owners also offer special guided tours exclusive to guests where you can learn the ins and outs of harvesting and preparing kelp. Experience a local Japanese fishing market tour or learn how to make your very own dashi, or soup stock, from the kelp collected by the family. 

For those looking to camp, just outside of Kitami City is South Hills Kitami, a car campground perched on a hill overlooking the cityscape. At night, a sea of lights fills your view as you enjoy a bonfire in the cool Hokkaido summer weather. 

Center of East Hokkaido: Fog Festival and Ainu Traces

Near the center of East Hokkaido is the expansive Lake Kussharo, a caldera lake formed from a prehistoric eruption of a mountain that rivaled the size of Mount Fuji. One of the largest lakes in Japan, it is often explored by curious travelers on canoes and paddleboards. On the Wakoto Peninsula, near the campground, you can rent paddleboards and take guided lessons on how to navigate the waters at Petetok. Near the start of the Wakoto Peninsula nature walk, on the isthmus of the peninsula, is an open-air natural onsen. Perfect for warming up after enjoying the cool, crystal clear waters of Lake Kussharo. Other guiding companies offer canoe tours of the Kushiro River, which is the only outgoing river of the lake, and are located near the Lake Kussharo Ainu Kotan, a small village with the Kussharo Kotan Ainu Folk Museum. 

The Kushiro River leads through the Kushiro Marshlands to the port city of Kushiro. Known for its cool climate and ever-persistent fog, Kushiro might show as a gloomy city past its prime, but it is home to some of the best seafood in Hokkaido. In addition, every summer is the popular Fog Festival, an outdoor festival held downtown featuring a light show and concert under a thick blanket of mist. 

When the fog abates, Kushiro is known for its stunning sunset over the Nusamai Bridge. Visitors and locals all gather along the bridge to snap an iconic photo of the fishermen’s wharf, drowned in golden sunlight. If you fancy an adventure on the seas, a boat tour of the Kushiro harbor is available for reservations either as a party or daily tours for smaller groups. After the boat, enjoy classic Kushiro robata on the banks of the canal and fill yourself with freshly caught seafood as you take in the summer nights and your summer adventure in East Hokkaido. 

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