Oyu Onsen is located east of Koide in Uonuma City, Niigata Prefecture. Uonuma boasts six ski and snowboard resorts, but what makes Oyu Onsen unique is the number of ryokan within walking distance of the ski slope. The area enjoys heavy snowfall each year, making it a perfect place for winter sports enthusiasts. After visiting the Secchu Hanamizuiwai Festival, which is only a station away, I made my way to Koide Station and hopped on the bus towards Oyu Onsen. There, I enjoyed a relaxing soak in the rotenburo (outdoor bath) and a good night’s sleep in my traditional tatami room.
The Onsen Ryokan
I stayed at Murakami-ya Ryokan, which was a welcome rest after spending the day standing in the cold. The ryokan provided me with a comfortable room, warm baths, and a delicious breakfast, as well as a free shuttle bus to Koide Station the next day. The ryokan is part of the Oyu Onsen hot spring resort and is very foreigner-friendly.
The ryokan also boasts a karaoke room, two private bath onsens, an extensive bathing room, and an outdoor bath. They have both Western and Japanese-style rooms, party options, and seasonal options for tours of the surrounding area. In the winter, you can purchase a ski pass to Okutadami Maruyama Ski Resort as part of your accommodation for a discount, and during the warmer months, you can purchase round-trip tickets to Oze National Park along with your accommodation.
The Room
After checking in to the ryokan, I was led to my room, a Japanese-style tatami room outfitted with yukata (often people wear them to the onsen or while walking around the building), extra quilts, a rack to dry my clothes on, and personal bathroom. I was a bit overwhelmed by the size of it. The tatami room alone was bigger than my entire apartment, but regardless of the size, it was comfortable and warm, and a futon had already been prepared for me. I gratefully stripped off my wet ski gear, grabbed a towel, and headed to the private women’s onsen which was located on the 2nd floor in the basement.
The Private Onsen
The private onsen were located on the second floor, in the basement of the building, and they didn’t require any sort of reservation, which was a bit difficult for me to understand. Instead, I was told to simply knock on the door and see if it was available. It was open, so I ventured inside, locking the door behind me.
The room was small, but very comfortable. I had never been in a private bath before. The intimacy of the small space, the darkened lighting, and the stone walkway lining the tub created a unique atmosphere. The water wasn’t quite as hot as other onsen I have tried, and after my cold day I would have preferred something hotter, but despite this, the solitude and peace worked their magic. I was warm, relaxed, and ready to sleep.
The Rotenburo Outdoor Bath
The following day, I woke up bright and early, but before setting off on my next adventure, I had a chance to try the rotenburo bath, or outdoor bath, which was unique to this ryokan. Not all of the onsen in Oyu Onsen town feature an outdoor bath, making Murikami-ya Ryokan a bit special.
I have always preferred outdoor baths because of the beautiful views and the fresh air, which is a wonderful complement to the hot water. They are often placed in high places or next to rivers, so the atmosphere is usually very relaxing as well.
I had made reservations the night before, so after waking up in the morning, I stopped at the check-in counter. There, I found my name and reservation time printed on a slip of paper next to the bath key. I grabbed the key and rode the elevator to the eighth floor before disembarking.
I found the third curtain, which was green and marked with the same kanji (Japanese characters) that were printed on my key. I pushed back the curtain and made my way up the last flight of stairs to the outdoor bath. The weather was incredibly snowy, and visibility was low. However, I can only imagine how beautiful the view must be in summer or autumn. I was happy to just enjoy my warm soak while snowflakes settled on my head and shoulders.
The Breakfast
After my dip in the rotenburo, I reached the third floor for breakfast. The meal was included in my accommodation fee, and after my morning bath I was starving.
The room was large, and each table had a room number placed on it. I found my way to room 717, where a large array of food was already prepared. Natto, baked fish, miso soup, salad, soft-boiled egg, rice, and boiled vegetables were prepared and distributed to each guest. The meal was huge, and I was forced to leave some of it behind, but it was a healthy and hearty way to start my day.
Dinner is usually included in the accommodation fee, but because of the time I arrived, I was not able to enjoy an evening meal. However, dinner is usually the real treat. Be sure to get to your ryokan on time so you have the chance to try the famous local rice, as well as wild vegetables, meat, and grilled river fish lovingly prepared by the ryokan staff.
The Oyu Onsen Town
While I waited for the shuttle bus to arrive and take me back to Koide Station, I had the chance to wander around Oyu Onsen a bit. The area surrounding Murakami-ya Ryokan was quite charming. Everything was built onto steep hills (although that could have just been the giant piles of snow) and I found my way to some nearby bathhouses. Not too far away, I found an outdoor foot bath, with small minnows darting around in the water. I was tempted to try it out, but the thought of taking off my boots and socks in the frigid air made me change my mind.
I followed the curving path that led back to the main street. The roads were lined with different hot spring houses and other ryokans similar to mine. From the road, I could see the ski lifts on the nearby mountain.
I also learned that in the summertime, Oyu Onsen Town sets up a local outdoor beer garden in the small loop of buildings. So be sure to make a trip in the summer to check it out.
Access
Take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Urasa Station. Take the JR Joetsu Line bound for Nagaoka. Get off at Koide Station.
By Bus From Koide Station :
You can take the Minami Echigo Bus bound for Tochiomata Onsen or Oyu Onsen.
The bus stops at the first bus stop from the entrance of Koide Station (There are only 2 bus stops in front of the station).
Get off the bus at Oyu Onsen (it takes about 20 minutes) and walk straight for about 300 meters towards a large white sign on the side of the road.
By Shuttle Bus:
Alternatively, you can request a shuttle bus from Koide Station when you make your reservations with Murakami-ya Ryokan. Just let them know the time you wish to be picked up, and a blue and white shuttle bus will be waiting to pick you up.
Sponsored by UONUMA City Tourist Association
