Higashi-Nagasaki and Ekoda Area Guide

When planning a dream trip to Tokyo, it’s understandable that many tourists may immediately think of city pop-infused images of Shibuya’s hectic crossing or Shinjuku’s neon (and alcohol) drenched Kabukicho. Such omnipresent staples of Tokyo’s tourist itinerary are certainly worth a look and a photo (or 10). But where should a tourist go when the adrenaline wears off and all they want is a relaxing stroll around an authentic Japanese suburb? I, for one, suggest two picturesque Tokyo neighborhoods, Higashi-Nagasaki and Ekoda, both located a mere five-minute local train journey from the transport hub of Ikebukuro. 

So, let’s escape the roar of the city center, grab an aromatic coffee, and take a scenic walk down some of Tokyo’s lesser-known streets.

Higashi-Nagasaki

Higashi-Nagasaki and Ekoda are sibling towns situated on the Seibu-Ikebukuro Line. So, even if you are based in the heart of Ikebukuro, these charming areas are a mere stone’s throw away. Convenience is key, furthered by the nearby Oedo Line subway stations (Ochiai Minami-Nagasaki and Shin-Egota) granting easy access to Shinjuku and Roppongi. 

So, after waking up from a night sampling Ikebukuro or Shinjuku’s nocturnal delights, my guess is that you’ll want a coffee? So, charge up that IC card and jump on the local train to Higashi-Nagasaki! Originally named Nagasaki, after the district in which it is located, the area’s name had to be changed to avoid confusion with the rather more well-known city in Kyushu. It’s here where you can leisurely wander narrow streets, taking in a more day-to-day Tokyo life, with several small local businesses dotted around the station, selling wares from fresh fish to vintage camera equipment. 

Near Higashi-Nagasaki Station you’ll find the perfect spot for a morning coffee. Opening at 8am (closed Monday and Tuesday), MIA MIA is not just a coffee shop but arguably the neighborhood hub of Higashi-Nagasaki; since its opening in 2020, this Australian-owned and inspired café has been enthusiastically welcoming locals and travelers alike with its lounge-like atmosphere. Do grab a ‘Nice’ (Iced) latte, some vegemite toast, and have a grand ol’ natter with the regulars, or as owner Vaughan refers to them, the ‘John Lennons’ (a play on the Japanese translation for regular customer, jouren). 

I’m sure these regulars will provide a plethora of recommendations for lunch, from Wakana Sushi to Shichi Soba, but my pick of the bunch has to be Konpei Gyoza. The lunch menu only operates on a weekend (12pm-2pm), but it is constantly shifting theme and taste depending on the whims of Konpei’s expert chefs. Aside from a fabulous gyoza teishoku (set meal), there is a themed dish that can originate from either Japan or any country of the chef’s choosing! After a much-needed coffee, have a wander, perhaps to visit the acclaimed Tokiwaso Manga Museum, which celebrates the works of several masters of manga, including the ‘Godfather of Manga’ Osamu Tezuka. Then when the stomach demands it, enter the compact storefront of Konpei Gyoza, take a seat on tatami, and take in some delicious dumplings! 

Ekoda

But what about Higashi-Nagasaki’s historical neighbor, Ekoda? Not to be outdone, Ekoda serves up its own brand of allure. Unashamedly real, Ekoda forgoes neon and post-modern architecture for brutalist and brilliant. Steeped in antiquity, Ekoda marked the battlefield for Lord Ota Dokan’s 15^th Century defeat of the Toshima clan for control of Musashi Province (modern-day Tokyo). The blood may have long-since been washed away but the respect for the old ways remains. Ekoda Station area is surrounded by a glut of old-fashioned izakaya, market sellers, and late-night bars. This has also made the area extremely popular with college students, as Ekoda is the home of several ranking educational institutions, including the national artistic jewel of Nihon University College of Art. 

Ekoda, then, is a tangible jump back in time and a very enjoyable way to spend a morning with times past. But don’t worry, for you won’t be doing it on an empty stomach. As my top recommendation for an early-afternoon bite, Parlour Ekoda, will be sure to satiate any famished fellow. A brilliant bakery with a European slant, an assortment of breads both sweet and savory await. The ever-popular toast set comes with salad and a drink but will set you back less than a London pint. 

Talking of pints…

Ekoda has welcomed many different visitors to its East London-like semai (narrow) streets, from seasoned locals to fresh-faced college freshmen, warping and waving where needed. But some things haven’t changed, because why would you fix what isn’t broken? Ekoda’s drinking culture embodies this adherence to tradition. Far less busy when compared to the tourist zoo of Shinjuku’s Golden Gai, Ekoda’s narrow alleys promise an authentic salaryman experience. Within a small radius near the station you’ll find night eateries and watering holes for all cravings, from Ramen Kagura’s delicious piri-piri tsukemen (dipping noodles) to Akabeko’s must-have hotpot. And if you truly are a night owl, there’s always Ramen Taiyo for a 1am 1,000 yen (~$6) set of ramen and huge gyoza. Lastly, and holding onto the motif of the nocturne, for marvelers of the macabre or any aspiring ghost hunters, nearby Egota-no-Mori Park is infamous for being one of Japan’s hottest ghost-spotting locations, having been the site of Nakano Hospital, a wartime infirmary and sanatorium that was shuttered in the 1990s.

Wrapping up

If you are planning a trip to Tokyo, the classic favorites like Harajuku’s moe fashion-centric Takeshita Street and Ginza’s illustrious high-fashion stores will always demand attention. When you have a few hours to spare, however, it’s imperative to remember that you can always escape to a slower tempo. In such a case, why not chill with a (n)ice latte in Higashi-Nagasaki’s Mia Mia, or slowly sip a selective shochu in one of Ekoda’s many salaryman haunts? At Shibuya Crossing, you almost have to run to keep up, but in cozy neighborhoods like Higashi-Nagasaki and Ekoda you can just simply stroll.