Kissaten: A Look Inside Japan’s Traditional Cafés

Chances are, you might have seen a kissaten without realizing it. If you’ve seen a brightly-lit “Key, Coffee, Tea” sign before, it’s usually a telltale sign of a kissaten. It’s a welcoming sign with a mysterious allure, much like a kissaten itself. That’s what piqued my curiosity in the first place. In the age of themed cafés and specialty coffee shops, the humble kissaten stands out, retaining much of its identity. 

Between the coffee brews and dusty lampshades, these old-school coffeehouses offer a modest space in an ever-evolving world. These days, the kissaten is no longer just a thing of the past but a time capsule into traditional Japanese café culture. Whether you’re living here or visiting, try stopping by a kissaten while they’re still around.

Introduction to Kissaten

Kissaten, which translates to “tea-drinking shop,” is more than just a place to drink tea. It’s a café, but with distinct designs and simple menus that differ from Western-style cafés. Often in family-owned establishments, a lone staff member or a couple run the whole space. The no-fuss menu often consists of a “morning set” (a drink and thick-sliced toast) or pancakes. Come lunchtime, sandwiches, pasta, or sometimes curry sets are available, while desserts are plentiful. The drinks are coffee, tea, and floats. It’ll take you less than five minutes to make your choice.

How Kissaten Happened

It’s believed that the kissaten emerged in the 19th century, specifically during the Taisho era, when the country started to embrace modernity and welcome foreign influence. While coffee arrived on Japanese shores in the 18th century, it couldn’t compete with a country of tea drinkers. So, it took a while to gain attraction among the masses. 

The momentum came to a halt during World War II, when Japan banned the import of coffee. But it quickly took off again in the 1950s as “third spaces” (places outside of home and work) that became popular among intellectuals and artists. University students come to a kissaten to study and enjoy an affordable meal while office workers visit to detox from work. Even music and manga lovers can indulge in their hobbies for hours on end. Hardcore coffeeholics delight in the sight of “masters” brewing coffee in glass vessels that make the kitchen look like a laboratory.

However, challenges arose when corporate coffee chains entered the market, leading to stiffer competition. Kissaten soon relied on patrons, often the older generation, as the younger generation opted for more fashionable cafés in prime locations.

Behind the Revival

But interestingly, it’s also the same tech-savvy crowd that led the revival of the kissaten. In seeking something fresh and new, they found something old. So, thanks to the power of social media, the young population, fueled by nostalgia, discovered the hidden appeal of the kissaten. The vintage aesthetics, simple details, and house coffee blends attract young people to a bygone era, snapping pictures and videos for travel blogs, TikToks, and Instagram.

Moreover, kissaten provides a space for solitude, especially in fast-paced cities. Something is enticing about sipping on a cup of perfectly brewed coffee, abandoning your phone for a while, and losing yourself in a book you’re reading. For me, the charm has always been the feeling of time travel. Every time I step inside a kissaten, I always look out for motifs that feel anachronistic in today’s age, whether it’s the wooden countertop, the analogue-style cash register, or the handwritten menu. While I’ve been to several kissaten across Japan, I frequent those in Asakusa. The area is brimming with options, and below are some of my favorites to get you started on your kissaten exploration.

Royal Coffee Shop

Royal Coffee Shop is one of the most popular kissaten in Tokyo, and it’s easy to see why. It showcases the elegance of the home and takes guests back to the grandeur of the Showa era. Think plush armchairs, velvet cushions, and a striking chandelier. Here, you’ll get a chance to savor the taste of food and drinks that have been available since 1962. For me, Royal Coffee Shop has the perfect ambience for a digital detox. Instead, you’ll find guests stuck to reading books or the newspaper.

Amour

Amour is easy to spot, but many overlook it for the adorable micro pig café upstairs. This kissaten is just two years shy of operating for 100 years. It’s dripped in vintage motifs, from the mosaic-style window panes and retro seats. The food menu ranges from pancakes, hamburgers, croquettes, and cakes. On top of coffee, tea, and juice, Amour also serves floats and shave ice drinks (only in the summer).

Sunny Cafe

When it comes to an intimate kissaten experience, my favorite is Sunny Cafe. There are only a few seats, including the bar counter. But the atmosphere here is akin to that of a café in a mountain lodge or a mom-and-pop shop. This charming kissaten is well-loved for its thick buttered toast, available all day as opposed to just part of the morning set. The hand-made menu, with English descriptions and pictures, is also a lovely addition.

Coffee Hatoya

This long-established kissaten is located in an unassuming corner of Shin-Nakamise Street in Asakusa. Coffee Hatoya is a great pitstop for breakfast or afternoon tea. The interiors evoke a nostalgic vibe, with its retro decor, and you’ll even spot an analogue cash register by the counter! The café is known for its fluffy, slightly charred pancakes, but I ordered the toast with strawberry jam and was pleasantly surprised by the sweetness. The lemon squash is enough to wake me up after a long day.

_{Cover photo: ayumi kubo}