Naruto: Whirlpools, Indigo, and Flavors of the Sea

Tucked into the northeastern corner of Tokushima Prefecture on Shikoku Island, Naruto City 鳴門市 is shaped by water. Facing the Seto Inland Sea and bordered by the Kii Channel, it’s best known for the dramatic Naruto Whirlpools — a natural phenomenon caused by tidal currents rushing between the Pacific Ocean and the Inland Sea. But there’s much more to this coastal city than swirling waters. From artisanal pottery and indigo dyeing to seaweed farming and refined local miso, Naruto is a destination that connects visitors to deep-rooted traditions and fresh coastal flavors.

We spent two days exploring Naruto, and what stood out was how seamlessly nature, culture, and cuisine are woven together. Here’s how our journey unfolded.

Day 1: Tides, Clay, and Charcoal Flames

We began our visit with a cruise to witness the Naruto Whirlpools, which form like clockwork twice a day. As our boat neared the swirling vortexes, the sea pulsed with energy. Caused by a 1.5 metre difference in tidal levels between the ocean and Inland Sea, the whirlpools are powerful reminders of nature’s rhythms and an exhilarating way to begin any visit to Naruto.

Later, we headed inland to visit OTANIYAKI Tamura 1784, a pottery studio with a legacy stretching back over two centuries. Specializing in fully custom-made tableware for professional chefs, the artisans at Tamura collaborate closely with culinary professionals to craft pieces that achieve a perfect harmony between food and presentation. Through repeated dialogue and detailed prototyping, each craftsman creates ceramics that have never been seen before. Many of the works we saw reflected this balance — subtle, earthy glazes paired with bold forms, rooted in Naruto’s traditional Otaniyaki style but elevated for the modern table.

Dinner brought us to Sen Izakaya, just minutes from Naruto Station and perched beside the Muya River, once part of the historic Muya Kaido, a vital trade route during the Edo period. This waterway connected inland Tokushima to the Seto Inland Sea and facilitated the transport of goods like indigo dye, salt, and miso, helping the area prosper as a merchant town. Standing by the riverside today, it’s easy to imagine the boats that once carried commerce and culture along its flow.

Our meal was a celebration of Naruto’s local bounty: crisp octopus tempura, freshly sliced sashimi, and richly marbled Awa-gyu, Tokushima’s premium wagyu beef prized for its tenderness and delicate marbling. The star of the meal was the young kodai sea bream, slowly cooked over an irori hearth to bring out its natural sweetness. Complementing every dish was a curated tasting of Narutotai sake, which offered a range of profiles from crisp and dry to rich and aromatic. It was the perfect pairing for the riverside setting and a fitting end to our first day.

Day 2: Naruto Markets, Miso, and Masterful Sushi

On Sunday morning, we made our way to the always lively Naruto Fish Market. Visitors arriving early can watch a live tuna cutting show, a blend of theater and craftsmanship. Here, you can buy fresh fish and barbecue it on site. With a bottle of local sudachi citrus wine in hand (BYO is encouraged), we grilled amberjack, snapper, and squid, sharing a meal among locals at communal outdoor tables.

Next, we visited Inoue Miso, home of the celebrated Tokiwa Miso, brewed using time-honored methods for over 150 years. The scent of fermenting soybeans greeted us as we stepped inside the workshop, where towering wooden barrels, some in use for generations, line the walls. Tokiwa Miso was selected to represent Japan in the Consortium for the Promotion of Export of Wooden Oak Brewed Miso, and has earned praise from Michelin-starred chefs and palace class hotels in France.

We tasted five kinds of miso. The shiro miso (white miso) was light, creamy, and naturally sweet, thanks to its custom koji. The flagship Tokiwa miso delivered bold, balanced umami, while an organic version, aged in newer barrels, had a clean, mellow profile. A five-year-aged miso, nearly black in color, packed sharp complexity and depth. Each spoonful was delicious and was easily some of the best miso I’ve ever tasted.

Lunch was an elegant omakase course at Sushi Ichi, made entirely with locally caught seafood. Piece after piece arrived with quiet precision: sweet prawn, delicate squid, firm kochi (flathead), smoky grilled anago (salt-water eel), briny sea urchin, and standout octopus which was both tender and flavorful. The experience was profoundly intimate and deeply connected to Naruto’s coastal identity.

In the afternoon, we dropped by the Narutotai Sake Brewery, operated by Honke Matsuura Brewery, which has been crafting sake in Naruto since 1804. With more than two centuries of brewing heritage, the brewery blends traditional techniques with a spirit of innovation, and is especially known for its bold, expressive sake that pairs beautifully with local seafood. One of its most distinctive creations is Camping Samurai, a sake packaged in a distinctive aluminum can, designed for convenience and versatility — perfect for enjoying outdoors, whether chilled or gently warmed as atsukan. Naturally, I had to bring one home.

To end the day, we visited N2 Indigo Dye Studio, which celebrates Tokushima’s legacy of Awa Ai, traditional Japanese indigo. Once a major export during the Edo period, indigo thrives in this region’s climate. At N2, the color is drawn from natural fermentation and layered dye baths. We admired elegant scarves, aprons, and home goods, and left with a set of hand dyed coasters. The shop also offers workshops where visitors can dye their own piece of Naruto blue.

Why Naruto Belongs on Your Map

While the whirlpools draw attention, Naruto’s charm runs deeper. It’s in the quiet perfection of handmade pottery, the aged depth of fermented miso, the clean sweetness of locally caught fish, and the blue that stains your fingertips in a centuries old indigo tradition.

Whether you’re a nature lover, a curious foodie, or a craft enthusiast, Naruto offers a taste of rural Japan that is immersive, refined, and unforgettably local. And you may just leave, as we did, with a few extra keepsakes: a ceramic bowl, a hand-dyed cloth, a can of sake, and the lingering flavor of Naruto Kintoki sweet potato, still warm from the coals.