Togakushi is a forested area to the north of Nagano city, were many things of beauty await your eyes and camera.
Nagano city (Nagano-shi, 長野市) in the very north of Nagano prefecture is a lot slower than the other prefectural capitals of Japan. In fact the more central city of Matsumoto (松本), albeit with its smaller population, just somehow feels more happening to me. There honestly isn’t a great deal to do there. Sure Zenkoji is very beautiful, and features a dark tunnel where you can experience true pitch black. It’s even said to symbolize rebirth, and many of us could sure use some of that. We have an article about it here on Voyapon, so please read that too. But as interesting as Zenkoji is, I can’t list it as the cities best attraction. Such an award hands down goes to Togakushi.
Togakushi is actually the name of a mountain (戸隠山), but whilst we can do mountain climbing there (and I fully intend on it this summer!) the area at the foot of the mountain more famous. Here we find three temples spaced apart by about 2 kilometers, many different hike routes, beautiful lakes and camping grounds.
Naganoshi station to bus stop
To reach Togakushi, a rather long bus ride is required as it’s not actually in Nagano city. The bus ride takes around 50 minutes, but it’s an interesting route and you won’t get too bored even just looking out the windows. The bus ticket costs 1150 yen from Nagano station to the first temple, Togakushi Hokosha(戸隠宝光社). A return ticket can also be purchased for 2100 yen. The bus also continues onto the third temple, but excepting physical inability, you should really walk it.
https://www.alpico.co.jp/access/nagano/togakushi/#timetable
Here is the timetable, don’t miss that last bus home!
The first of the three temples is named Togakushi Hokosha. The approach is a really long stair case, but there is a longer less steep second set coming of the side. The temple has a little book where you can write the date, your name and where you live. I don’t recall it 100%, but it’s something like this,
| 年 | 月 | 日 | 名前 | 住所 |
| Year | Month | Day | Name | Where you live |
The monks will probably be happy to see you have come all the way from distant lands, so please write down your details.
From Togakushi Hokosha, behind the temple to the right is a hiking trail that leads straight up to the second temple. It’s about 2 kilometers long and very easy.
When I see this photo I can hear the sounds of the wind very easily. It’s a very tranquil walk.
Keep following the signs labeled中社 through this little town. There are a few shops here we can buy straw woven souvenirs and some delicious Nagano soba.
The name “Togakushi” actually means something like the door that secludes. Why would a mountain have such a name? Well, it’s actually explained in the painting above. In Shinto stories it is said that the Sun hid herself in a cave, bringing darkness to the world. Other gods then danced in front of the cave to excite her interest, and when she took a peak, the door was thrown all the way to this mountain, earning it its name.
Togakushi Chushya (戸隠中社) is the middle shrine, and devotes its worship to the god who was able to get the sun to peak from its cave. There is also a small waterfall and museum here.
There are a few sakura trees which bloom very late relative to the rest Japan, so might be a chance to see them if you missed out.
The hiking trail continues on, this time from the right of the temple, until we reach the main entrance to Togakushi-Okusha (戸隠奥社), the final shrine.
The path continues on for quite a long walk, though a beautiful forest. At the end we climb some steps to the final shrine. This shrine is devoted to the god who throw the door, thus bringing light back to the world.
When heading back, a good detour to take is through the botanical gardens (戸隠森植物園), past the lake “Kagamiike” (鏡池), eventually back to the middle shrine.
The path throw the botanical garden is a pleasurable, well signed with maps boardwalk.
“Kagamiike” means Mirror Lake in English, because it’s supposed to reflect the foliage. Unfortunately I couldn’t see if for all the wind.
Follow the trail signs back to 中社, and from there you can either catch the bus home, or walk back to the first temple and catch the bus there.
I hope you will enjoy Togakushi as much as I did. I really feel that it’s the best way to spend a day in Nagano city, even though it’s outside the city!
Information
Access: 70 or 71 bus from Nagano station.
https://www.alpico.co.jp/access/nagano/togakushi/
Hours: Always open.
Fee: Free.
