My Japan: My Week as a Graduate Student in Tokyo

Having recently graduated from a masters program at Waseda University, I thought it would be more interesting to rewind a few frames and focus this installment of My Japan on a typical Waseda week, situated towards the end of my studies. Though I won’t be focusing on a time too close to thesis submission, as that rundown would comprise solely of entire days spent as a permanent resident of Waseda’s Central Library; with the only spice of this life being the daily choice of what bento to eat for lunch. Truly scintillating, wouldn’t you agree?

So, grab your pasokon パソコン (laptop) and a beaten notebook and let’s head back to the classroom!

Monday

Rise and shine and smell the coffee. While every Monday may feel like Sisyphus beginning his futile ascent, an aromatic Americano can certainly help ease proceedings. So, after dragging my young-old bones out of the futon and making myself somewhat presentable, I would walk to my local café and neighborhood hub of Mia Mia. Thankfully, on a Monday class wouldn’t start until after 10am. So, I could take my time, munch some toast, and have a Monday morning moan with the regulars.

A Masters program, especially towards its conclusion, is arguably more about thesis study than long class hours. As such, I would spend most of my university day in the library. The steep steps of Waseda’s toshokan 図書館 (library) became an omnipresent fixture. Normally departing around 8pm-9pm, I would decompress in my local sento 銭湯 (bath house) and try not to fall asleep amongst the steam.

Tuesday

On a Tuesday, my local coffee shop would be closed. Not to be deterred, I would rise earlier than normal to catch the subway to Yoyogi, in order to frequent a magnificent kissaten (traditional Japanese coffee shop) called Ki Antei. From here I would walk to Waseda, working towards my goal of 10,000 daily steps with a route that would take me through the towering tree-cover of Toyama Park. Upon arrival, I would grab a quick bite at the Orange Cat, a grand lil’ café situated beneath the Haruki Murakami Library; with this student sanctuary sporting two of the Franz Kafka Prize-winning author’s great loves: good coffee and immersive jazz. Then it was back to the central library, wherein I would remain until my Masters seminar in the late afternoon. After attempting to defend my scattered thesis puzzle, I would head home to Higashi-Nagasaki; though not before biting down on a banh-mi from a renowned Vietnamese store in Takadanobaba. 

Wednesday

There are many things that a student fears: deadlines, job-hunting, early mornings, etc. However, on a Wednesday I would willingly subject myself to the latter. For my local coffee shop would operate earlier opening hours, provided you took part in rajio taiso ラジオ体操 a form of calisthenics that is rather popular with the older population. It most certainly wipes away the sleep from your eye. 

Wednesdays were a bit different, for an absence of classes resulted in one of two outcomes: I would either set up base camp in the library for the whole day (something that was done many a time towards submission day) or I would head to the Voyapon office to work on an article. When choosing the latter, I would cram myself like a sardine into the aluminum tin known as the Oedo Line, suck in my chest and head towards Hibiya. 

By the evening, If the need arose (and quite often it did), I would find myself in a brilliant sports bar in Ebisu, The FootNik. Your go-to watering hole for any soccer fan, they even ‘sport’ miniature televisions in the restrooms, so you don’t miss a second of the action!

Thursday

Another early start on a Thursday. Though this morning would promise no refuge in the form of a café, as classes started before 9am. Finishing at the chime of the lunch bell, this break was always rather paradoxical. Since it was indeed ‘lunch time’ but due to the wave of students descending upon every gakkoshokudo 学校食堂 (student cafeteria/restaurant) in sight, there was little time to actually wait for and eat lunch. The answer to such a culinary Einstein’s conundrum? Simple — konbini コンビニ (convenience store). 

Upon the conclusion of classes, I would once more retreat into the library. It’s a wonder why they didn’t charge rent on top of my tuition fees. Then at the end of the day I would return to the quaint little town of Higashi-Nagasaki and bookend the day with a glass of white at a lovely local wine and music bar, Light Factory. 

Friday

Salvation is near and we’ve reached the home stretch. Though in all fairness, weekdays and weekends would tend to merge towards the end of my time as a daigakuinsei 大学院生 (Masters student). Regardless, it was always refreshing to reach a week’s terminus, with my final class concluding around 2:50pm. Emerging from the school building, there was no time for a Breakfast Club-esque fist-pump, however. It was out of the pan and into the fire, as I would simply substitute one desk for another and lumber into the library.

Friday nights were usually spent in the student and office worker drinking capital of Takadanobaba. An area worthy of its own post, this transport hub (located on the Yamanote and Tozai lines) is overflowing with wallet-friendly izakaya, looming karaoke complexes, and a smorgasbord of ethnic eateries. This would always create a positive dilemma — where in the world do we eat tonight?

The Weekend

In typical student fashion, Saturday mornings were usually spent in recovery mode. Not quite hair of the dog, but I would certainly endeavor to self-prescribe a strong black coffee. Then it would be time to take it nice and slow, usually doing a good amount of household chores and catching up on an ever-growing list of films and television. I would spend the evening around my charming neighborhood, most likely sinking into the steam of a sento. 

Easy like Sunday morning. The last day of the week was for Tokyo traveling. Sometimes I would go as far as a trip to Mount Takao to perhaps grab a glance of Mount Fuji, or to Kichijoji to revisit the superb suburb that I called home seven years ago. One of Tokyo’s greatest conveniences is its much-heralded public transport network, allowing tourists and Tokyoites alike to zip around with upmost efficiency and at a very affordable cost. 

At last, it was time to retire to the futon, no doubt to dream about the upcoming week’s library life.