A Day Exploring Matsushima

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A view worth traveling for. A view worth remembering. The honor of standing on the podium of the country’s greatest sights. How high should I place my expectations? Praised for centuries, Matsushima has been lauded as one of the great Nihon Sankei 日本三景, or the Three Views of Japan, alongside Amanohashidate in Kyoto and Miyajima’s Itsukushima Shrine Torii. The phrase first appeared in the 17th century, following a longstanding Japanese tradition of naming landscapes, and giving them a greater permanence in doing so. 

But classifications tend to blur once you’re standing in front of the actual landscape. What is it that makes Matsushima worthy of the label? Is it the geometry of islands scattered across the bay? The long lens of poetic tradition? Or the infrastructure that now props the scene with bridges, overlooks, and curated photo spots? After exploring Sendai, I couldn’t leave Miyagi Prefecture without seeing the legend and finding out for myself.

But I decided to begin somewhere else. Before reaching the bay that everyone talks about, I made a short stop at Katsurashima. Just one ferry away, and barely on anyone’s radar.

A Short Pause in Katsurashima

The ferry from Shiogama reached Katsurashima 桂島, the first of the Urato Islands, in under half an hour. I disembarked onto a modest pier and wandered along the quiet beach, which had a peaceful yet eerie still feeling, contrasting the beautiful sunflower fields on the opposite side.

Just uphill, Matsuzaki Shrine 松崎神社 is almost hidden by a ring of old trees. Known also as Katsurashima Shrine 桂島神社, it traces its origins to Shinto deities long associated with salt production, and its location marks a continuity of island rituals stretching back centuries.

Nearby, a fun little spot atop a rapeseed field caught my attention. A white bench and a welcome sign invites visitors to sit and enjoy the view. Apparently, the islanders call the little island on sight a Rain-making rock 雨降石, and traditionally come here to pray for rain.

As much as I loved the quiet ambiance of the island, I made my way back to the pier to catch the next returning ferry. If you can afford the extra time, the local ferry is a convenient way to do island-hopping to visit the Urato Islands in one day.

Crossing into Matsushima

Back on the ferry, the wind picked up slightly as the boat cut through the channel toward Matsushima. The bay, dotted with pine-covered islets, felt still despite the movement. Light broke through the clouds now and then, brushing the water in pale, warm streaks.

I disembarked near Ojima 雄島, one of the smaller islands linked to the mainland by the short, elegant span of Togetsukyo Bridge 渡月橋. A sign marked it as a sacred site, and the red-painted rails contrasted the greenery of the pine branches overhead. The island itself is uninhabited, but far from empty. Stone monuments near the entrance dedicated to the great poet Matsuo Basho (1644-1694) and the renowned Matsushima haiku attributed to him and those of his apprentice and travel companion Kawai Sora.

Deeper in, weathered markers point to the former site of Shoginan 松吟庵跡, a small hermitage tied to a Rinzai monk who lived in seclusion for about 12 years. The foundations remain faintly visible in the moss. It’s a quiet place, suitable for contemplation, and an interesting starting point to see how the story of Matsushima begins to lean into legend. Long before its inclusion as part of the Three Views of Japan, the area’s beauty was often celebrated in poems since the Heian period (794-1185).

Bridges to Islands, Bridges to Stories

The transition from Ojima to Fukuurajima 福浦島 came with a change in scale. Fukuurabashi 福浦橋, the long red bridge connecting the mainland to Fukuurajima, stretched confidently across the water, 252 meters of painted steel set against low waves and layered hills. On this warm, slightly overcast afternoon, the bridge didn’t shimmer so much as hold steady, its reflection broken by the tide.

Fukuurajima is larger than it looks from shore. Once across, the trail splits quickly. I took the upward path toward Miharashidai 見晴台, a small viewing platform perched at the edge of the island’s wooded spine. The view opened briefly to the bay, where the pine islands scattered themselves in uneven rhythms.

At one bend, a wooden pavilion framed the view with aesthetic purpose. A little further in, tucked among the trees, stood a small Benzaiten Shrine 福浦島 弁財天, one of many linked to water, music, and fortune.

Temples Framed by Pines and Water

Back in the mainland, closer to the center of town, Matsushima’s sacred architecture rivals the beauty of the scattered islands. The Godaido Hall 五大堂, perched on a tiny rocky islet just offshore, is the first to catch the eye. Built as an outer hall for Zuiganji Temple, it houses five Buddhist deities that are only shown to the public every 33 years (the next scheduled appearance is set for 2039).

Most visitors cross the Sukashi Bridge すかし橋 without realizing it’s been designed to demand attention: gaps between the planks offer sudden views straight down to the water, forcing you to look where you’re stepping.

Before visiting the main complex of Zuiganji, make sure you don’t forget to stop by Kanrantei 観瀾亭. Once a tea house for feudal lords, now open to the public, it sits with its back to the hills and its gaze fixed firmly on the bay.

Zuiganji Temple 瑞巌寺 itself, set back from the road and buffered by tall cedars, is a gorgeous complement to the coastal landscape. The current structure dates from 1609, commissioned by Date Masamune. The interiors, as well as the courtyard garden and different pavilions are well worth your time to appreciate these carefully preserved treasures.

Just beside it, Entsuin Temple 円通院 continues to surprise with treasures of the Masamune family. Its japanese garden and the Sankeiden Mausoleum 三慧殿, create an atmosphere that feels nothing sort of magical, enveloped in mossy grass and vibrant lush greenery that can be still enjoyed in late summer.

The Shape of a View

From the four classic viewpoints of Matsushima, Otakamori, Tomiyama, Ogitani, and Tamonzan, I only had time to climb Tomiyama, the one historically known as the “Beautiful View” (麗観, reikan). The name suggests a picture-perfect postcard. Today, the view includes more: hotels, rooftops, ferry wakes slicing the bay.

The unchanged shapes of the pine-covered islets still dominate the horizon. But what surrounds them has shifted. In ukiyo-e prints, the scene appears suspended in time: untouched, idealized. Now, it’s anchored by everyday infrastructure. I lingered at the overlook, allowing my eyes to adjust. The cloudy weather still offered enough light to distinguish the islands from the sea. As I began my descent, the sky started to clear. Thank you, fickle Pacific weather, always keeping me on my toes.

How to Get to Matsushima

Matsushima is an easy day trip from Sendai. The fastest option is the JR Senseki Line, with frequent trains departing from Sendai Station to Matsushima-Kaigan Station. The ride takes about 40 minutes, and the station is just a few minutes’ walk from the waterfront and most major sights. If you are traveling from Tokyo, you need to factor in the Tohoku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Sendai, which takes about 90 minutes

If you’re starting your visit with Katsurashima or one of the other Urato Islands, take the same Senseki Line but get off at Hon-Shiogama Station. From there, it’s a short walk to the Marine Gate Shiogama terminal, where ferries depart throughout the day. Timetables vary by season and weather, so checking ahead is essential,  especially on weekdays.

Matsushima has carried the weight of its name for centuries, and the allure is far from gone despite recent developments. As one of the “three views” of Japan, appreciating these landscapes allows you to gain a meaningful insight on the aesthetics that have dominated the better part of the cultural landscape; but even without this layered context, the local charm speaks for itself.

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