A Literary Trip to Kamakura

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My first trip to Kamakura was certainly memorable. Unknowingly, I had chosen a day in the middle of Golden Week to go stroll through Komachi-dori and discover the main sights of the city. I was greeted by a bustling crowd of Japanese tourists under the blazing sun who’d basically had the same idea.

Still, that didn’t keep me from enjoying my visit. The city was lively, lovely, and its scale and scenery a pleasant change from the sprawling capital. So I went again, and again, visiting Kamakura through the years and their seasons, becoming more and more familiar with this coastal town and its many famous (or lesser-known) sites. To this day, Kamakura remains my favorite place in the Kanto region of Japan; a sentiment seemingly shared by many.

Through the Eyes of Natsume Soseki

One of the names which is sure to be mentioned when evoking Kamakura through a literary lens is that of Natsume Soseki. It is indeed the place where his novel Kokoro (1914) opens up, as the narrator is invited there for a summer vacation by a friend. That’s where he will meet Sensei, an older man whom he will regard as a mentor; and whose troubled past will become the focus of the story.

This novel exemplifies, rather well, the role Kamakura plays for its Tokyo neighbors: a land of vacation and leisure. Of course, Kamakura is known for its long history as one of the former capitals of Japan (1185-1333), which saw the birth of the country’s first military government; but it is nowadays mostly enjoyed as a pleasant summer destination.

It is on the beach that the narrator of Kokoro meets Sensei. Yuigahama is its name. It is only a short walk from Kamakura Station, making it very easy to access. Despite its convenient location and popularity, though, Yuigahama is not the most scenic beach: as with many coastal areas of Japan, it is bordered with concrete and does not appear to be intended for sightseeing. A change is observed in the summer, when temporary restaurants and bars are installed on the beach, cementing Kamakura’s identity as a holiday destination. Although Yuigahama is not necessarily the most exciting place in the city during the rest of the year, there is a certain kind of comfort to be found in its familiarity.

Through the Eyes of Ogawa Ito

Ogawa Ito, for her part, takes us on a lesser-known side of Kamakura. Although she comes from a different prefecture, she became associated with Kamakura through her series of books that are set in this city. The first and most known of them is Tsubaki bunguten (ツバキ文具店、2016), in which tsubaki means camellia and bunguten, stationery shop. As a lover of both, the title inevitably grabbed my attention. It is essentially a book on the art of writing, which we explore through Hatoko, a young woman returning to a stationery shop that her grandmother left her. There, in Kamakura, she reconnects with her past and with her words she becomes a writer, writing on behalf of the people around her.

The bonds that Hatoko forms in Kamakura are further explored in Kirakira kyōwakoku (キラキラ共和国、2017), or The Sparkling Republic, and Tsubaki no koibumi (椿ノ恋文、2023), or The Tsubaki Love Letters, although unfortunately, none of them are translated in English to this day (they are, however, translated in other languages). 

Two companion books have further been published: Tsubaki bunguten no Kamakura annai (ツバキ文具店の鎌倉案内、2018), in which Ogawa Ito guides her readers through all of the real-life places where her story unfolds, and Tsubaki koibumi gashu (椿ノ恋文画集、2023), a picture book accompanying the latest novel in the series.

Guided by Ogawa Ito, I visited Kamakura again, enjoying the city through a different lens. Her words brought me to Jufuku-ji, which is introduced in the novel as the favorite temple of Hatoko’s grandmother. It is a very quiet place, which I might not have visited otherwise; I was grateful for the opportunity.

Another interesting discovery was the Kamakura Pilgrimage to the Seven Lucky Deities (七福神巡り), which several characters undertake together in Tsubaki bunguten. The pilgrimage can be done in a single day, and consists of seven temples and shrines across the city (visited in any order), plus one in Enoshima. These include Hase-dera for Daikokuten (god of fortune and wealth), and both Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu and Enoshima Shrine for Benzaiten (goddess of water, the arts, and learning). 

The journey can be documented through goshuin (御朱印), seal stamps collected from each place visited, either on a specifically designed board or in a regular goshuincho (御朱印帳).

Additionally, in her guide book, Ogawa Ito also recommends charming shops and restaurants (of which Kamakura has in multitudes), and even hot springs including the lovely Inamuragasaki Onsen.

A Bookish Day in Kamakura

For more inspiration and reverie, bibliophiles can start right in Komachi-dori, where Osato Bookstore is located. It makes for a perfect stop when looking for pretty stationery, the perfect goshuincho to start a pilgrimage around the city, or anime-related books to bring back as souvenirs (including Ghibli books — complementing the Ghibli store across the street).

Then, there is Imakoji Bookstore: opened in 2021 under the concept of “traveling without moving,” this secondhand bookshop offers a wide variety of genres, from travel writing to contemporary literature and works on history, philosophy, architecture, art, and cinema.

My personal favorite, however, remains Book Cafe So Common. It is nestled in Kamakurayama, which is a bit far from the center of town but well worth the effort. The café is very pretty, offering tasty drinks and even better sights thanks to its elevation. A diverse selection of books (mostly non-fiction) is available for customers to read while they enjoy a coffee. All books, new and secondhand, are available for purchase.

Last but not least, a literary visit to Kamakura cannot be complete without a stop at the Kamakura Museum of Literature. Originally a villa belonging to the Maeda family, it opened to the public as a museum in 1985. It is now a space dedicated to writers who’ve had a connection with the city – such as Natsume Soseki and Yasunari Kawabata — and is also known for its rose garden. Unfortunately, it’s currently being renovated and therefore closed to the public, though it should reopen in 2029.

Although it is a fairly small city, I find that Kamakura always has something new to offer. I still enjoy the crowded Komachi-dori and rather distinctive Yuigahama beach, knowing that there is an entirely different side to the city right next to its obvious landmarks. A literary side allowing me to get to know Kamakura on a deeper level, and to be reminded that there is always a new way of perceiving and experiencing the same place.

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