Wellness and self-care are concepts that have recently become associated with upscale spas and luxury resorts offering epicurean amenities and exotic treatments. But the truth is we don’t need such luxuries to heal our psyches from the daily stresses of everyday life; we simply need places to escape to, unplug, and unwind. Places like Nagasaki’s Ojika Island.
Ojika won’t top the search ranking of places to visit in Japan; it lacks the sensational historical sites of Kyoto, the electric atmosphere of Tokyo, the endless variety of cuisine of Osaka. The fact that it is virtually unknown to all but the most savvy of visitors to Japan means that it is a hidden gem of an island, a hideaway for those seeking rest from the modern world. Some locals refer to a visit to Ojika as “iyashi-tabi,” a healing trip. Just three days in Ojika should convince you why.
Day 1: Welcome to the Healing Island, Ojika-style
Most departures by boat to Ojika are from Sasebo Port on the Nagasaki Prefecture mainland. Different types of boats depart from Sasebo and take between 1 hour and 30 minutes to 3 hours and 15 minutes, depending on the boat. You should be able to leave Sasebo Port on one of three boats, leaving between 9:25am and 12:20pm and arriving in Ojika no later than mid-afternoon on the latest boat.
The healing journey begins as you cruise out of Sasebo, into the azure blue waters of the East China Sea, past the rugged coastlines of Hirado and Shinkamigoto Islands. If you come by ferry, head to the upper deck to enjoy the view and the ocean breeze.
You will arrive at Ojika Port, where you will be greeted by Ojika Island Tourism’s staff. They can help you make any reservations you need during your stay on the island: accommodation, bicycle rental or car hire, restaurant reservations, and private tours (accommodation reservations should be made before you show up, of course).
Stay in your own Private Traditional Japanese House
Ojika boasts several renovated kominka (traditional Japanese houses) spread across the island. Each is the work of Alex Kerr, the world-renowned Japanologist with a passion for the restoration of traditional homes. Kerr’s aesthetic maintains the elegance of the original building while adding modern comforts such as fully equipped kitchens and aromatic cedar baths. The interior decor is kept traditional, using antique Japanese furniture and traditional crafts.
Sakishoji is a perfect choice for a traveling couple tucked away in the alleys of Ojika’s downtown area. It comfortably sleeps three on a futon laid out in a Japanese-style tatami room downstairs, with a full kitchen and living and dining area in a bright second-story room. For larger groups or those wishing for a little more privacy, Hoshu is a former mansion close to a harbor with a private Japanese garden and a capacity for six guests. Several other kominka are available around the island, each with its own charming features and unique modern-traditional design.
Make New Friends Fishing with Ojika Locals
One of the experiences that Ojika Island Tourism can arrange is fishing with a skilled local fisherman. Ojika’s historic wealth was built on the fishing industry due to the large variety of fish living in the waters surrounding the island. Fishing is a way of life here and an enjoyable pastime for many locals.
A local fisherman will take you to one of the best fishing spots on the island and teach you the basics of fishing for the different types of fish just off of Ojika’s shore. You might catch one of Ojika’s famous isaki (chicken grunt), with its translucent flesh and mild flavor that makes for a perfect plate of sashimi, or some aji (horse mackerel), a staple of Japanese cuisine that live in abundance here. Best of all, with a bit of help, your catch of the day can become part of your evening meal.
Get To Know a Japanese Family in Their Own Home
The fishing experience is often arranged in conjunction with an Ojika “Home Visit,” where a local family invites you into their home for a meal. Participating families are interested in learning about overseas visitors and sharing their lives on the island. You’ll have the opportunity to build a friendship with local people in a unique way.
Friendships are often built around food, so the host family will prepare a feast in honor of your visit, and if you bring fish caught during your fishing experience, they will likely prepare it for you as part of your meal. But even if you arrive empty-handed, you can rest assured that there will be plenty of food: local specialties prepared using ingredients from the island’s farms and surrounding sea.
Day 2: When in Ojika, Do as the Locals Do
After a good night’s rest at your kominka, you might choose to wake up early to witness a beautiful Ojika sunrise. Kakinohama Beach is the perfect location for viewing the sunrise with its eastward-facing beach and calm waters. It’s a leisurely bicycle ride to Kakinohama, from 5 to 20 minutes depending on the location of your kominka. You can arrange an electric bicycle rental from Ojika Island Tourism for your stay and the bicycles will be waiting outside your kominka when you arrive.
Even if you decide to sleep in, you can grab a light breakfast and coffee at a bakery and a café in Ojika’s downtown area. Koji Koji Pan is a small take-out-only bakery that makes healthy baked goods without using eggs, butter, or milk. The taste and texture of the bread are so amazing you’ll wonder how they do it, and the answer is sweet potatoes, a staple product of Ojika Island. Grab a coffee just a few meters down the road at Cafe Turtle, where local owner Yosuke Taguchi roasts his own beans and serves richly flavored lattes and other coffee drinks.
In order to familiarize yourself with the island, start with a walking tour of the downtown area. The maze of narrow streets in this area are like a living museum of Ojika history, with many wooden buildings dating back over a century. Spice up your walk with a good old-fashioned ‘stamp rally’ and visit various locations and landmarks around the area to collect rubber stamps to prove you have been to them, and collect a small prize from the Ojika Tourism Office for completing the rally!
A Simple Lunch and Relaxing on the Beach
Exploring the town, you’re likely to build up an appetite. Fortunately, you will pass KONNE Lunch & Cafe as you walk around, which is a great place to take a lunch break. The husband-and-wife team whips up a delicious and filling meal of Japanese-Western cuisine served with the hospitality of an Ojika Island smile.
After lunch, return to your kominka, pick up your swimsuit, and cycle to Kakinohama Beach. If you didn’t come for the sunrise this morning, you’ll quickly realize why it is Ojika’s favorite beach for watersports. The bay-protected waters are calm almost year-round; the clear waters teem with a variety of colorful fish, and shower and toilet facilities have been built here for your convenience. Ojika Island Tourism can also help you arrange a SUP (stand-up paddleboard) experience or other activities at Kakinohama.
Experience Cooking with Ojika Locals
When the warm blue waters of Kakinohama have melted your stress away, return to your kominka for another distinctive Ojika experience — cooking with locals. Several locals are available to come to your kominka and create a huge local dinner for you, and you can also participate. Your chef will teach you to prepare some simple dishes and make fresh tempura and other dishes in your own kitchen while bringing other prepared foods with them. The cooking experience is another chance to get to know the local residents at a deeper level and learn some secrets to preparing local Japanese cuisine simultaneously.
Day 3: Unique Experiences of Ojika Island
If you don’t mind getting up early, Ojika Island Tourism can make breakfast reservations for you at Cafe Totona, which serves breakfast until 9am. This cute little restaurant, hidden among the historical buildings of the downtown area, serves up a traditional style Japanese breakfast with the freshest ingredients, prepared by the owner, an Ojika resident who left the island for over 40 years before returning to open her café.
Zen Gardening Experience Taught by a Buddhist Monk
After breakfast, enjoy another activity that can be coordinated by the tourism staff: a Zen gardening experience at Choju-ji Temple. While many people are familiar with Zen gardens using rock and pebbles in place of water elements, the monk at Choju-ji explains the history of the Zen garden before leading participants in the experience of creating beautiful patterns in the rocks using various gardening tools. This experience is said to be meditative and instructive, but if you want to practice further meditation, the temple is open to visitors who wish to do so.
In the afternoon, cycle to another beach, Shirahama Beach, a long, shallow stretch of beach that makes it feel like you can walk all the way into the ocean depths. Shirahama is the perfect beach to sit and let the warm waves lap at your feet. There are shower and toilet facilities here, too, so you can get cleaned up before returning to your kominka before dinner.
Ojika Sunsets: One of the World’s Best
But before you go to dinner, no visit to Ojika would be complete without witnessing one of its dramatic sunsets in the west. Ojika Island Tourism can arrange a Sunset Tour to the western island of Madara, where you can view a spectacular sunset from its Sunset Point or a secret spot only the tourism staff can guide you to.
Kaiseki Seafood Dinner at Ojika’s Finest Restaurant
After experiencing the healing power of the sunset, the staff can take you to your dinner reservation, the peerless Fujimatsu. Another of Alex Kerr’s kominka renovations, Fujimatsu is a restaurant in the former residence of one of Ojika’s richest and most powerful families. Today, it is one of Ojika’s finest dining establishments, mentioned in the Michelin Guide for the Nagasaki region. Fujimatsu’s chef personally selects the ingredients he will use for the day from the freshest catch and produce available, so the menu changes daily. While you may not know for sure what Fujimatsu will be serving, you can be sure it will be an incredible kaiseki-style meal featuring Ojika’s finest seafood and produce.
Day 4: Back to Reality, Completely Healed
Your boat returning you to Sasebo departs at 11am, so take a leisurely morning to enjoy your favorite locations or things to do on Ojika before you go. Alternatively, an early-morning ferry to the Goto Islands leaves Ojika before dawn if you want to continue your Nagasaki island adventures. Either way, the Ojika Island Tourism staff will happily help with the arrangements to get you to the port on time.
After three full days on Ojika, enjoying the bounty of its natural beauty, the kindness of the locals, and the freshness of its local cuisine, you’ll return to regular life feeling healed from the weight of the modern world.
Sponsored by Ojika Town.
