Uonuma (魚沼市) is a small city in Niigata prefecture famous for the artwork by Uncho Ishikawa, who was said to be the ‘Michelangelo of Echigo.’ His wood carvings and paintings can be seen in Eirinji and Saifukuji Temple.
Uonuma is also famous for its high-quality snow, which is great for skiing and snowboarding. I visited Uonuma in the middle of winter. The temples were covered by a thick layer of snow, and I took a sightseeing taxi from Koide station and spent two hours visiting Eirinji Temple and Saifukuji Temple.
The intense colours inside the temples feel warm and vibrant when you come in from the white winter landscape. The best part of a day of temple-hopping in the snow is staying at a local minshuku and getting warm after a long day of sightseeing.
| Price: 2-hour sightseeing taxi course from Koide Station to Eirinji Temple and Saifukuji Temple 6,200 yen. (Not including the admission fees of the temples). |
| How to get to Koide Station: Take the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Urasa Station, and change for the JR to Koide Station. Takes approximately 2,5 hours. |
Uncho Ishikawa: The Master Craftsman of Woodworking
Uncho Ishikawa was a master craftsman during the Edo period and a genius in woodwork. Some have even called him the ‘Michelangelo of Echigo’ because of his many stunning sculptures and wood carvings. Uncho Ishikawa was alive between 1814 and 1883 and was known as a humorous man.
Uncho Ishikawa spent 13 years at Eirinji Temple and six years at Saifukuji Temple, creating many gorgeous, colorful wood carvings and sculptures. The art has been well looked after, and many of them can still be seen today.
Eirinji Temple
Eirinji Temple was constructed approximately 500 years ago. Uncho Ishikawa supposedly went there with the promise of getting ‘good sake and chisels for life’. It sounds like quite an unusual agreement for a temple.
Uncho Ishikawa spent 13 years at Eirinji Temple, creating several beautiful wood carvings and sculptures. His paintings and carvings have beautifully decorated the transoms and the beams above the doors.
As you enter the temple, three dragons are placed in front of the main image of Buddha. Dragons have been worshipped in Japan as Gods of water since ancient times. They are seen as guardians, which may very well be why Uncho Ishikawa created the image of the dragons.
The Masterpiece: Tennyo, Heavenly Maiden
Tennyo, The Heavenly Maiden is a masterpiece created by Uncho Ishikawa. The Tennyo is known to extend life, scatter enemies, give wealth and spread Buddhism. This is why the Tennyo can be seen in many temples. The artwork at Eirinji Temple is created using bright colours that still shine bright today.
The faces of Uncho Ishikawa’s creations show different expressions depending on the angle you view them. There is an old tale that the Tennyo found at Eirinji Temple was based on a woman Uncho Ishikawa was in love with.
| Price: 300 yen |
| How to get there: City bus from Koide station to Tado stop. From Tado, it is a 15-minute walk. |
| Note: Please refrain from taking pictures and keep quiet inside the temple. |
Saifukuji Temple
Saifukuji Temple is a Soto Zen Buddhist temple that officially opened in 1534. The temple is most famous for the many sculptures and wood carvings made by Uncho Ishikawa and Shoshu Kanō, who were master craftsmen during the Edo period.
Saifukuji Temple is an impressive sight, with vibrant colours shining through the artwork in the temple’s main hall. Uncho Ishikawa spent a full six years completing all of the sculptures at Saifukuji.
The Story of Dogen-Zenji
The main hall of Saifukuji temple was designed by a priest in 1857. The space was used for performing memorial rites. The main feature of the main hall is the marvellous ceiling that is covered in wood carvings by Uncho Ishikawa. The ceiling depicts the story of when Dogen-Zenji encountered an aggressive tiger while walking in China.
According to the story, his walking stick changed into a dragon to guard him and keep him safe. There are also an additional seven animals in the substantial ceiling piece. Uncho Ishikawa was a man with a certain amount of humour portrayed in his artwork.
The ceiling carvings are the main masterpiece left behind at this temple. But there are also several other sculptures and artworks covering this temple’s walls, sliding doors and beams.
| Price: 500 yen |
| How to get there: Minami Echigo Kotsu bus from Koide station to Mushinokami kuchi stop. From Mushinokami kuchi, it is a 15-minute walk. |
| Note: Please refrain from taking pictures and keep quiet inside the temple. |
Sponsored by UONUMA City Tourist Association
