Iki: An Ancient Island Inhabited by Gods and Gastronomy

Iki was once an independent kingdom and border island on ancient sea routes between Japan and the rest of Asia. Today, the island is home to 280 kofun burial mounds, over 150 Shinto shrines, some 60 traditional ama divers harvesting sea urchins and abalone, and up to 900 cows destined to become Iki-gyu, the island’s own gourmet beef. Iki is also known for its many white sand beaches and spectacular rock formations. It’s an island steeped in cultural and geological history, if not inhabited by gods.

A school of shimmering iwashi sardines swirled past my head. I looked up as a long shark swam calmly by, soon to be overshadowed by a black manta ray rippling past a spiny fugu, which gave me a sideways glance before fluttering off into the depths. I couldn’t tear my eyes away from the living cylindrical aquarium at Hakata Port Ferry Terminal. But my jetfoil was now ready for boarding, and I was also eager to begin my adventures off the coast of north western Kyushu, on the remote island of Iki.

About an hour after the jetfoil departed from Fukuoka, we debarked at Iki’s Ashibe Port. A short drive brought us to Hougetsu, a seafood restaurant, charmingly decorated with wooden boats, one of which doubled as an open fish tank. The highlight of my kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) were the extra-thick, soft, juicy slices of maguro tuna and melt-in-your-mouth uni (sea urchin). Another friend visibly savored his boiled aka hata, especially after seeing a live specimen of the bright red fish in the other tank. Dense Iki tofu with sesame sauce added a sweet touch to this fresh, luxuriant meal.

On the north side of the island, we hopped aboard the Emerald Iki for a 40-minute cruise around Tatsunoshima. This little uninhabited “dragon” island is known for its emerald green bay, jagged sheer cliffs and dramatic rock formations. I made my way to the front deck of the small boat, which deftly approached Tatsunoshima’s tentacular crags. We passed the renowned Jagatani, a snaking crevice between towering boulders, a rock shaped like a mammoth, an angler perched on the crags of Hanage Kannon, and many other geological marvels over a shallow sea of ever-changing hues.

Overlooking Yunomoto Bay, IKI RETREAT by Onko Chishin is a Michelin-approved ryokan (Japanese inn) that sits on a 1,700 year-old natural hot spring. I was privileged to stay in one of the hotel’s 12 spacious suites, which included an open-air terrace with a private bath. I filled the bath to my preferred temperature, then leaned back and enjoyed the panoramic sea view with a complimentary soda from the mini bar.

About half an hour before sunset, I rented an e-bike and leisurely cycled along the winding countryside road leading to the island’s most iconic attraction. It wasn’t long before I spotted her at the tip of the Kurosaki Peninsula, silhouetted against the fiery sky. Saruiwa or Monkey Rock is so-named because the shape of this 45-meter-high basalt sea cliff resembles the profile of a monkey gazing out to sea and toward the sunset, complete with the rocky texture of her furry back. Saruiwa is also one of the eight divine pillars preventing Iki from drifting, and the monkey’s distinctive, dignified silhouette against the golden sunlight appeared nothing less than sacred.

Back at IKI RETREAT by Onko Chishin, I immersed myself in a gourmet kaiseki dinner that brought out the fresh taste of locally grown ingredients: ultra-fine mozuku seaweed in vinegar, raw uni sea urchin, grilled abalone and sazae turban shell, sweet and juicy honeydew melon for dessert. I couldn’t resist washing it all down with delicate freshly squeezed Iki tomato juice.

The next day began with a visit to Ikinokura Distillery, situated on a hill in the center of the island. Iki is the birthplace of barley shochu, where distillers have been making shochu with a refined mixture of both sweet rice malt and rich barley for 500 years. Ikinokura Distillery is one of Iki’s only seven surviving breweries, transforming the taste of Iki shochu over time through long-term aging in wooden barrels and earthenware pots. The CEO Fukutaro Ishibashi gave us a tour of the factory, culminating in a friendly tasting in the white-walled lab space. I was partial to the light and fruity shiso liqueur, which rolled off my tongue with each refreshing sip.

At midday the tide was still low, so we headed out to Kojima Shrine, situated on a sacred islet accessible only via a footpath that becomes submerged at high tide. The white stone torii gate stood symbolically at the foot of the hill, reminding us how surrounding Uchime Bay was once the gateway to Iki and its ancient royal capital of Haru-no-Tsuji.

For lunch, Ishu Cafe welcomed us inside a rural wooden house tastefully decorated with vintage furniture and colorful antiques. I noticed little bottles of Ikinocraft, Ikinokura Distillery’s fruit-flavored soda liqueurs, prominently displayed by the entrance. But the real delicacy was the restaurant’s own specialty: fine slices of evenly marbled sirloin Iki-gyu, grilled to perfection and served with a sweet sauce, fresh grilled vegetables and, of course, Iki rice.

By the time I swallowed my last bite, it was time to catch the jetfoil back to Fukuoka, with a full belly and many happy memories of my relaxing time on Iki island.

Read about the rest of my trip in Fukuoka, from a trendy yatai specializing in mentai to the city’s newest and artiest luxury hotel in Tenjin.

Sponsored by Fukuoka City.