Osaka is pure dynamism: street food on every corner, charming retro shotengai (traditional shopping streets), and a cheerful atmosphere that feels different from cities like Tokyo or Kyoto. Many visitors come hoping to wander through Dotonbori, a neighborhood that never sleeps; full of lights, laughter, and energy. As often happens in Japan, however, there is always an unexpected place waiting to be found. And right next to the renowned canal, hidden in the middle of all that life, stands a modest ryokan that has been there since 1951 in the Showa era. Tradition and modernity come together in this distinctive stay at the vibrant center of Osaka.
The Rooms at Kaneyoshi Ryokan
When I stepped inside, I was greeted by the owner, a kind and friendly man who represents the third generation running the space. After checking in and exchanging money at the convenient machines in the lobby, I headed to my room which was equipped with a futon, tatami flooring, a private bathroom, and all those little details that make a traditional stay so special.
The surprise came when I opened the sliding doors: the Dotonbori canal itself. From a small covered terrace, I could admire it without the usual crowds and calmly wait for the famous yellow boat to pass by, taking photos with no rush and no people pushing around me. A real privilege.
Kaneyoshi Ryokan’s rooms are measured in tatami mats, usually six or eight, though there’s also a 10-tatami option ideal for families. My room was eight tatami, perfect for a couple.
There are also a couple of budget rooms with a bed or a bunk bed and no private bathroom. They’re simple and practical that are great for travelers who are out exploring all day and just need a comfortable place to sleep.
Exploring Kaneyoshi Ryokan
I slipped into the yukata waiting for me in the room (much more comfortable for walking around) and set out to see what else this ryokan had to offer.
Public Bath
Even though the room had its own bathtub, I wanted to try the public bath, separated by gender. Finding a bath like this in central Osaka is unusual, but the ryokan aims to offer a truly relaxing space after a day of sightseeing. And yes. You might wonder how there can be “onsen-style” water in a city without hot springs: they purify the water using mineral stones.
The bath area is cozy, with retro tiles that glow warmly when natural light comes in, creating a surprisingly soothing atmosphere.
A Space for Remote Work
After a relaxing bath, it was time to get some work done. I often travel during the week, so finding a quiet space to focus was a huge plus.
What used to be the breakfast room is now set up for working or holding small meetings, with outlets and a pleasant ambiance. If you need a break, there’s a tatami area with a lovely mural of Mount Fuji.
Guests can use this space for free until 8pm and, after checking out, stay until 2pm.
What’s Around Kaneyoshi Ryokan?
If you liked the ryokan itself, wait until you see the surroundings. It’s literally just steps from the Dotonbori canal. Within seconds, you’re in the very heart of Osaka and can enjoy strolling around late at night, once the tourists have left and the streets regain their quieter charm. I stayed out until almost midnight — something that would’ve been harder if I’d been staying farther away.
The area is full of restaurants and street stalls where you can try takoyaki and other local specialties. And hidden among all those busy shopping streets and bright signs, there’s also a small temple: Hozen-ji, home to the moss-covered statue of Fudo Myoo, said to bring good luck. It’s just a short walk from the ryokan.
Hozen-ji Temple
TOURIST ATTRACTION- 1 Chome-2-16 Namba, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0076, Japan
- ★★★★☆
You can also reach Den Den Town, the otaku district of Osaka, in about 15 minutes on foot, and Shinsekai in around 30. If you prefer using public transport, Nippombashi and Namba stations are close by, making it easy to explore the rest of the city.
My stay at Kaneyoshi Ryokan was short but meaningful. On the day I left, it rained nonstop, so I postponed my visit to Katsuo-ji Temple and spent the day enjoying the cute cafés of Nakazakicho instead. I wished I could have stayed longer and kept exploring Osaka’s quieter corners, but the city isn’t going anywhere.
And I’m sure my farewell with the owner wasn’t a goodbye but a “see you soon.”
- Kaneyoshi Ryokan
LODGING - 3-12 Souemoncho, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 542-0084, Japan
- ★★★★☆
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