Sakura Blossoms at Keiseki Park and Baby Blue Eyes in Nakatsu

Japan’s love for sakura is undeniable. Every spring, the country eagerly anticipates the cherry blossom season, tracking peak bloom forecasts from sources like Earth Communication and Sakura Navi. Whether you are in Tokyo, Kyoto, or Hokkaido, it’s easy to plan your hanami (flower viewing) experience based on these detailed maps.

When I first arrived in Tokyo as a tourist, sakura season had just begun. The air was crisp, but the sight of delicate pink buds opening signaled the arrival of spring. As I wandered through parks filled with hanami-goers, I saw groups of friends and families gathered on bright blue picnic mats, enjoying beautifully arranged bento boxes and raising their glasses in celebration under the falling petals. Meanwhile, I, less prepared and more spontaneous, sat directly on the ground with my grocery store-bought bento in flimsy plastic packaging. Watching the festivities around me, I felt like an outsider, longing to be part of Japan’s beloved tradition.

Sakura Cherry Blossoms at Keiseki Park in Oita Prefecture

Fast forward a few years later; I’ve had the opportunity to visit some of the most popular cherry blossom destinations in Kyushu while living here. It’s also afforded me the luxury of visiting some lesser-visited parks. So, when I was looking for a new spot away from the hustle and bustle that sakura blossom season tends to bring, a friend suggested that I visit Keiseki Park 溪石園, a 20,000 square meter park on the outskirts of Nakatsu city in Oita.

Keiseki Park is about a 35-minute drive from the Nakatsu JR station. Built in 1987 to commemorate the Yabakei Dam’s completion, it is a relatively new park full of rock gardens, streams, ponds, and waterfalls. Most notably, the cherry and maple trees are the park’s staple, and seasonal shifts bring a flood of pink blossoms or amber-red autumn leaves.

I took some backroads I’m still amazed to find on Google Maps (but worth the lovely countryside views), and arrived at the park in its full bloom. A wide variety of cherry blossoms, from delicate white petals to robust, deep rouge explosions, were scattered throughout the park. Many of the trees looked to be some kind of hybrid, with clumps of different coloured flowers hanging from a single branch like some friendly witch’s magical sakura experiment.

Along the banks overlooking the Yabakei River is a classic row of Japanese cherry trees, their near-white petals floating down onto the pathway like a gentle spring snow. Just lovely. With few visitors and spacious grounds, there is no need to struggle with the crowds that you’d normally be competing with to get your sakura blossom shots.

Unfortunately, picnicking isn’t allowed on the garden grounds, which is a slight disappointment. However, the teahouse on-site offers food, and a small area outdoors if you do happen to bring your own food. The teahouse is normally open from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm, but it was closed when I arrived on a Sunday. You’ll want to check in advance for their hours if you’re keen on a lunch during your visit.

While I had to take my picnicking dreams elsewhere, Keiseki Park was still a worthwhile visit. I’ll be making it again next sakura blossom season. In just a short drive, you can have the pleasure of walking through a sakura garden that feels like it’s all your own.

Spring Flowers Continues to the Cliffs of Yabakei

Just as the Japanese follow the seasonal blooms of cherry blossoms, a visit to the nearby Yabakei cliff 耶馬溪 face with their Nemophila (often called Baby Blue Eyes) also attracts many admirers. Planted early in the year by the organized effort of the Yabakei locals, the thick rows of the Baby Blue Eyes can begin or conclude your floral journey through the Nakatsu landscape.

Even if the flowers aren’t enough of a draw for you to make the visit, I’d suspect that the dramatic rock face would do the trick. When I first saw Yabakei a few years ago on passing, I was shocked by its sudden appearance and had to pull over to take a closer look. I always look for an old man’s crooked lips and cyclops eye in one of the pillars. What can you see?

The hand-carved tunnel of Ao-no-Domon is also an impressive sight. I’d been told by some locals that it was carved by a man who had committed murder early in his life. This man spent the next 30 years atoning for his sin by carving the tunnel with a chisel to provide easier access to an important shrine nearby. Ironically, he became rich in his later years by charging a toll on the tunnel. Honestly, I’m not sure if this part of the story is true or not but I enjoy it nonetheless.

If you’re keen on reading more about what to visit in the area, here’s more about the Yabakei gorge in Nakatsu.

Getting to Yabakei and Keiseki Park in Oita

Public transport is limited here, so getting to your destinations by car will be your best option to explore the area. If you’re leaving from Nakatsu JR Station, Hon-Yabakei is about a 25-minute drive from Nakatsu, and Keiseki Park a 35-minute drive.

Alternatively, if you’re leaving from Oita Station, it takes roughly the same amount of time to get to both Hon-Yabakei and Keiseki Park, with an hour and a half drive with tolls (2 hours without tolls).

If you’re looking for a coffee spot, there’s a lovely coffee shop in the Nakatsu foothills. *Please note that the restaurant mentioned in the article is no longer open. The walking tour of Nakatsu city is also a wonderful visit for history buffs. Happy Sakura viewing everyone! 🌸