Sponsored by Shizuoka Prefectural Tourism Association
Kumomi Onsen (雲見温泉) is located on the west coast of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture. It is a very little town, know for its excellent hot springs (hence the word “onsen,” which means “hot spring,” in its name), its beautiful beaches from where you can see mount Fuji and its delicious seafood!
In Japan, the fishermen families living in port towns tend to run the inn businesses as well (this kind of ryokan, run by a family, is called minshuku in Japanese). The fishermen who own the inns catch very fresh fish to serve for dinner. For a seafood lover, this kind of place is perfect for tasting very fresh fish and shellﬁsh.
Ryouri no yado Ebisuya
I am a foodie; I couldn’t travel around Izu without staying and tasting its famous seafood! I booked a night including dinner and breakfast in a minshuku called “Ryouri no yado, Ebisuya” (漁師の宿 えびす屋).
Ryouri no Yado Ebisuya is a traditional family house. My bedroom was very large and comfortable with private toilets insde the room. I slept on a futon lying on tatami mats. Because it is not a regular ryokan, I had to set up the futon by myself.
They don’t really have a proper bathroom inside the ryokan, but there are two onsen available in the basement of the house for showering or bathing.
The dinner was served at 6pm in the bedroom: first they brought sashimi (slices of raw fish) in a large boat-shaped plate. But it was just the beginning; after that came a half fish cooked in a soja sauce, a half spider crab, and a small grill with several types of shellfish, rice, salad and pickles. A real feast!
I confess, I could not eat everything! After the dinner, it was up to me to clear the table and put the dishes in big plastic trays that I could leave in front of the door.
After digesting my food, I went to one of the private onsen in the basement: there were showers next to the bath, because as a rule you always have to shower before getting in the onsen. The bath water is really hot and you can also take a cold shower to cool off afterward.
For couples, this type of private onsen is really nice because you can take a bath together (usually, men and women are separated in two different onsen).
Towels and yukata (a casual summer kimono usually made of cotton) are available in the bedroom’s closet.
After the onsen, I made my bed: all I needed was in the closet: futon, duvet, pillow. First, unfold the futon on the tatami floor, then put the blanket and the pillow on top. In this minshuku, you also need to put the sheet and pillowcase on by yourself. I spent an excellent night in the warmth of the bedroom while a storm was occurring outside.
Just like dinner, breakfast was brought to the bedroom at 7:30am. Even if the breakfast was lighter than dinner, there was still plenty of rice and fish. The good thing with that kind of traditional Japanese breakfast is that you don’t get hungry before lunch!
Just before leaving the ryokan, our hosts offered us a full bag of mikan, a type of Japanese tangerine that grows in the Shizuoka area in winter.
Kumomi Sengen Shrine
Before going back on the road, I strolled around the village. The weather was really great! I admired Mt. Fuji from the beach and I climbed mount Eboshi nearby (162 meters high). On the top I found the Kumomi Sengen Shrine (雲見浅間神社) and a stunning view of the bay (and Mt. Fuji because of the sunny weather).
Easy stairs lead to the first building. Then more stairs, really steep, led to the second building. Views from both buildings were really similar, so if you are not sporty, you can stay on the first platform without missing anything.
Nearby, don’t miss the blue cave and the Koganezaki park!
For any inquiries about “Ryouri no yado Ebisuya” minshuku, you can check their website here.
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